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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I'm going to take the dive.

Before anyone says "Trade in for a 6mt and save yourself a headache!" I have to say, there are a few different goals in mind here that eliminate trading in from my options. (dynamat, speakers/amp, car is paid off, LSD, 14k miles, etc)

I've done some research, ordered some parts, and plan on making this a documentation/exploration project and hopefully contribute to the community for anyone looking to do this.

Parts ordered so far
6mt computer
6mt transmission
6mt shifter cables
6mt harness

Parts I have determined I need
Both axles and halfshaft
Brake and clutch pedal assembly
Clutch slave and hardline
Flywheel/clutch/TOB
Transmission and possibly rear motor mounts
Shifter assembly
Shift knob

Other parts I have considered but do not yet deem necessary
Cluster (to eliminate the PRND bit on the cluster)
LSD

Again, this is a work in progress, and not yet a guide. I have taken the plunge by ordering the big pieces. Advice is definitely welcome, and when it comes down to install, I will attempt to document and take pictures of all "issues" and protips.

I have budgeted about 1500 dollars for this, and so far I am meeting expectations. Buying as much as possible used or from members on this forum has allowed me to save a few bucks. This also makes it possible for me to turn around and sell my CVT, cables, axles, shifter, and other little bits to cover some of the cost.

This doesn't seem like that big of a deal having done K-swaps in the past, putting a LS1 in a mazda rx7, and I have plenty of access to correct tools. The only thing I am worried about is the IMA integration. I definitely don't want to piss it off, but I believe that, by using the MT harness and computer as opposed to hacking up the CVT harness, things may work a little better.

I won't be editing any posts unless it's for clarification and/or correction. When done, I'll probably do a write up and add it in a different thread.

Thanks for the support.
 

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Seems really cool, can't wait to see how it turns out! Have you looked into salvage yards? You could just take out what you need from a wrecked 6mt.

Since the Z is a huge computer you may run into warning lights when skipping unnecesary parts.

Please document with pictures!
 

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I do think you should trade in and save yourself the hassle, but I'm looking forward to seeing you do this. A lot of people have talked about wanting to do this, but were afraid to try to tackle it. You better keep us updated!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replacing the cluster also gets rid of Manual Mode gear indicators and adds the MT shift point arrows. It might be a worthwhile change.

I am excited to see this conversion play out! Can't wait to see updates.
Thanks. I didn't think about this. Is it a helpful feature? I do know how to shift... lol. In fact, this has been the first automatic vehicle I've ever owned. but other than a shift indicator is this useful?

Seems really cool, can't wait to see how it turns out! Have you looked into salvage yards? You could just take out what you need from a wrecked 6mt.

Since the Z is a huge computer you may run into warning lights when skipping unnecesary parts.

Please document with pictures!
Yeah... I'll take care of warning lights as necessary. The one thing that concerns me is immobilizer. I am wondering if I can keep the auto ECU and program flashpro to manual and it will work... If not, I'll have to figure out some way of getting the vehicle to honda for immobilizer programming. Since I have the ECU out, I might just see if I can take a key and the computer by and see what the options are.

I spoke to Honda today. They'll only program the immobilizer IF a car is present. My current plan is to drive up in CVT form, switch to manual ECM in the service department, watch the car get fussy, have them program a key to the ECU, then switch back to auto and drive away. Hopefully I can confirm a CVT and 6MT have same harness connectors and I don't blow anything up. :)

I do think you should trade in and save yourself the hassle, but I'm looking forward to seeing you do this. A lot of people have talked about wanting to do this, but were afraid to try to tackle it. You better keep us updated!
Yeah... I wish that was a viable option. There aren't a whole lot of 6MT in my area, much less low mileage, good condition, properly taken care of ones. I'll always get the short end of the stick since mine is paid off too...

Thanks for all the support! Just know this isn't going to happen overnight. I'm looking at a september/october date for the down and dirty. Everything until then will be research, conversation, and confusion ;)
 

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Thanks. I didn't think about this. Is it a helpful feature? I do know how to shift... lol. In fact, this has been the first automatic vehicle I've ever owned. but other than a shift indicator is this useful?
I'm actually not sure. I know that the iMID has displayed MT-only messages to me before, but I don't know if they are sent to the screen by the computer or if they are built in to the cluster itself. Maybe someone else with more technical knowledge of the computer/iMID can chime in.



The new part costs over $1,000, and if you replace the cluster the odometer reading might not match up with your actual mileage.

Edit: The shift indicator is only useful if you are interested in knowing when the computer thinks you should shift in ECON or Normal modes for best gas mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm actually not sure. I know that the iMID has displayed MT-only messages to me before, but I don't know if they are sent to the screen by the computer or if they are built in to the cluster itself. Maybe someone else with more technical knowledge of the computer/iMID can chime in.



The new part costs over $1,000, and if you replace the cluster the odometer reading might not match up with your actual mileage.

Edit: The shift indicator is only useful if you are interested in knowing when the computer thinks you should shift in ECON or Normal modes for best gas mileage.
Interesting. I've seen a few on ebay I could pick up if **** hits the fan. For now, I'll throw that on the "maybe" list. Thanks for the heads up.

Are you going to have to deal with those giant magnets in the transmission?
Negative. There is an adapter plate between the "magnets" and the flywheel. It should bolt up just the same. Check out a parts diagram to see what I'm talking about. I don't expect to run into any issues here. I'll just keep to the "don't be a dumbass and let metal shavings/small bolts near it" rule and I'll be okay. I would only be really worried if I did have to take out the magnets, as there is some special tool for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm actually not sure. I know that the iMID has displayed MT-only messages to me before, but I don't know if they are sent to the screen by the computer or if they are built in to the cluster itself. Maybe someone else with more technical knowledge of the computer/iMID can chime in.



The new part costs over $1,000, and if you replace the cluster the odometer reading might not match up with your actual mileage.

Edit: The shift indicator is only useful if you are interested in knowing when the computer thinks you should shift in ECON or Normal modes for best gas mileage.
The more I think about this, the more interested I am...
If the gods agree with a few wiring tidbits, I might hook up the 6mt ECU in place of the CVT and see how she goes.
I remember seeing a body computer a while back when I was scouring an online honda dealer... Will keep you guys up to date.
 

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The dash bulkhead panel shows a different part number for the CVT. You are probably going to have drill out a pass through for the clutch master cylinder and also there will need to be a cut out for the shifter cables as well. The CMC hole is 34mm I think. I used the 11581 Unibit to finish out the final diameter of the hole for my CMC drill press jig.

Have you looked at these areas yet to see if there are obvious places to drill your holes on the panel? I would imagine it's the same panel, except with some of the holes left undrilled...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Relevant thread is relevant.
Pulled back a little bit of jute and found this

Can someone take the same picture if they have a 6MT? nervous I'm missing pedal mounting points.
 

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I'm interested to see how this works out. I'm thinking about forced induction and tracking the vehicle in the future, but I don't think the CVT could handle that kind of demand. Been curiously waiting to someone attempt a tranny swap.
 

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Can someone take the same picture if they have a 6MT? nervous I'm missing pedal mounting points.
The two smaller "holes" for the CMC also mount the clutch pedal assembly. There should be two more behind the bulkhead insulation, making a square bolt pattern. On the 6MT I think there are studs welded in those two other bolt locations, which obviously won't be the case for a CVT, so you'll probably have to improvise something else. A nut and bolt will work, but you'll have to have second person to tighten it down since there won't be anything to keep the other end from spinning. Or you could fabricate a bracket to go on the engine bay side of the bulkhead that connects the two missing diagonal studs together...

The shifter cable pass through won't be as easy to see without removing the whole dash...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Confirmed. I am missing the studs.

After I get the clutch pedal assembly, I'll mock mount it and see what I can do.

It may come down to either welding studs to the body. Either that or create some sort of plate that attaches the clutch pedal assembly to the brake pedal assembly like the good old days.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lot's of things got me thinking today!
First, after installing an aftermarket radio, I noticed a new clock on the MID.
Hmm... It can think!

PDF Page 2200 of the service manual shows a diagram of the cluster. There's a section that says "CPU/POWER SUPPLY CIRCUIT/CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK CONTROLLER" << THANKS for the heads up Chimera!

Duh. No wonder I can't find a body computer. It's the cluster.
Will be trying to source a MT cluster here soon. Found some on the bay for 150ish, but I would like to find something cheaper. I'm in no rush.

Between using a 6MT ECU and 6MT cluster, we should be groovy.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Friday update - More parts ordered, picked up, and shipped.

Parts ordered so far
6mt computer
6mt transmission
6mt shifter cables (THANKS Item9)
6mt harness
Both axles and halfshaft
Brake and clutch pedal assembly
Flywheel/clutch/TOB (THANKS Item9)
Transmission and rear motor mounts
Shifter assembly (THANKS KingJihgy)
Shift knob (THANKS Marshessn for having stupid PWJDM stuff laying around)
6MT cluster

Parts I have determined I need
Clutch slave and hardline

Other parts I have considered but do not yet deem necessary
LSD

Unsure of
Clutch sensor/switch for auto stop

I MAY be able to move the brake sensor switch over to the clutch and be fine... maybe. After all, autostop/start only activates if you're pressing the brake on the CVT. I figure if I move it over to the clutch, I'll only autostop/start in gear if the clutch is depressed, and if I am out on the clutch and out of gear, autostop will not operate.

Thats fine with me. Autostop is referred to as "temporary reduction in A/C" in my car during the warm houston summer months.

However if I get the clutch and brake pedal assemblies with the switches attached, I'll just wire them in wherever they go... I haven't looked through the service manual for where/how these go, but I still have some time to do so.
 

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Great project! My nephew changed a Subaru SVX to a manual, (no SVX came from the factory with a stick). I would check to see if Auto Stop would affect any other part of the system.
 

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I MAY be able to move the brake sensor switch over to the clutch and be fine... maybe. After all, autostop/start only activates if you're pressing the brake on the CVT. I figure if I move it over to the clutch, I'll only autostop/start in gear if the clutch is depressed, and if I am out on the clutch and out of gear, autostop will not operate.
Autostop in the manual requires brake pedal operation, too. Simply going slower than 19mph doesn't activate it. The clutch/neutral is a requirement as is pressing the brake.



You would also run into a problem with cruise control operation, as the brake and clutch switches both disable cruise. You wouldn't want to step on the brakes and have cruise control still activated.

36750-SJA-013 SWITCH ASSY., STOP & CRUISE (MATSUSH1TA) $ 9.70
36760-SE0-003 SWITCH ASSY., CLUTCH (TEC) $ 23.33

The parts are cheap enough, I wouldn't try finding a way around it.

It should be noted that the Stop & Cruise switch has a different part number on the manual, as well.

Edit: Most importantly, doesn't the brake switch activate the brake lights? That would be the #1 reason you wouldn't want to do it. Whoops!
 
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