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Hey guys,

I purchased a 2011 CR-Z with 98k miles on it back in April, and since then I have noticed a slight problem with my CVT. When I come to a complete stop, and then apply a light acceleration, I get a bucking or jerking feeling until I am at roughly 15-20 mph. I am assuming this is coming from the CVT, rather than the fuel filter assembly, since it happens only under a light load. It is significantly worse and more frequent when the engine is still cold, but I can occasionally feel it at operating temperature, just not as intensly.

I found threads with this same problem related to CVTs on other cars' forums(without solutions of course), but none on this one so I figured I would ask. I have just purchased new Honda CVT fluid and a trans filter to see if this fixes the problem, since the previous owner could have used some non-Honda trans fluid in this (I really hope not). He did tell me all the fluids were changed right before I bought it so I am thinking that could possibly be why I didn't feel it until a week after buying it.

I will change my CVT fluid and filter this weekend, and keep this thread updated should it fix my problem. If anyone has any suggestions or solutions, I'd greatly appreciate hearing them! Thanks! :grin2:
 

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Some others have noted that their CVT's act in the same manner, but I haven't had anything like that happen with mine (a 2013 with Sprintex supercharger.) I change my fluid much earlier than "regular" maintenance; changing the CVT fluid with ONLY honda CVT fluid at 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Fluid is the key, but there's only so much that fluid can do. Check the level before you change it, and if you can, compare the old with the new (color, cleanliness, etc.) Note that you can check it either hot or cold, as there are HOT and COLD marks on the dipstick, but I think it's best to check it HOT--withing a few minutes after shutting the engine off. Keep this in mind while refilling; cold fill mark is lower than the hot fill mark. I fill it to the cold mark at fluid change time, then test drive and top it off to the hot mark after the car gets to operating temperature.

I really drive mine hard, so I've found little excuse/reason to take off from a stop in grandpa mode, but other than that, I've driven with it in fully "automatic" up to the redline, as well as in sport mode while using the paddle shifters to redline too, even sustained driving hard through twisty mountain roads while in LOW (hold both paddles in for 3-5 seconds to lock in low,) with no problem. Maybe I should try to take off from a complete stop really, really slow to see if it does the bucking and jerking on me. :)
 

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Mine has done this a few times. I have seen others refer to it as the "rubber band" effect. You just need to adjust how you accelerate and the issue will not occur( as often). Apply a little more or a little less gas. I have also found what mode the car is in makes a big difference as to how much gas you need to apply( or not apply) to avoid this effect.
 

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Mine does it sometimes and I have been researching about it. It can happen to Honda Insight owners as well. The car would jerk back and forth coming out of autostop. It should be normal and you should try give it like 1 second before you commit hard acceleration. The post below talks about it:

http://www.crzforum.com/forum/honda-cr-z-owners-forum/6744-jerky-acceleration-very-low-mph.html#/topics/6744?page=1

Quoting user m104:

“Don't worry, it's normal. The owner's manual is light on details, but does mention the jerky low speed behavior when the IMA is cycling between charging/assisting, the car is alternating between regenerative and standard braking, and the AC is running intermittently. I think the exact language is closer to, "be careful, because at low speed the car might speed up suddenly."
Basically, the CVT is juggling the necessary RPM speed (to keep the engine running, when necessary, and the accessories/AC running), the IMA's current settings, and the forward speed of the car. If it's annoying, Normal or Sport mode should help smooth it out, as will turning off the AC. Not ideal, but it should help. “
 

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when you say 15-20 mph, are you accelerating very slowly to this speed? and does this occur accelerating normally or briskly?

even in a 6MT, at certain speeds and loads, it seems the electric motor can get confused as to whether you're decelerating or accelerating. not sure how harsh it is in a CVT, but it's a similar motion to what others describe with their CVT's.
 

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when you say 15-20 mph, are you accelerating very slowly to this speed? and does this occur accelerating normally or briskly?
Yes, I'm accelerating slowly, but not at the slowest acceleration the car can do. If I press the accelerator to the point where it is on the borderline of accelerating and doing nothing, the car is fine, no jerking. Same goes for a hard acceleration. But right above the slowest possible acceleration it rubber bands harder than I believe it should be, even given that it's a CVT. It's especially bad when the engine is cold. It makes my head move back and forth pretty good so I think it's out of the acceptable rubber-band effect.

Sorry for leaving this thread dead for 2 weeks, I had to wait an extra week since i only ordered 3 quarts of CVT fluid initially and realized you need more than that if changing the filter. Finally did the change yesterday and that fluid was gross. It was a dark brown color, but luckily not burnt-smelling so hopefully the tranny doesn't fail :grin2: haha. The previous owners obviously never did this change since the filter was all rusty and fluid was that dark.

I will keep the thread updated once I can drive it more to see if it improved at all. I'll also post some picture of my coca cola colored fluid so everyone can see how yummy it looks. Thanks for the input mates.
 

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Sounds like it may have been abused and may have been low on fluid too. Hopefully nice clean fluid and new inline filter will make it happy again.:smile2:


Yes, I'm accelerating slowly, but not at the slowest acceleration the car can do. If I press the accelerator to the point where it is on the borderline of accelerating and doing nothing, the car is fine, no jerking. Same goes for a hard acceleration. But right above the slowest possible acceleration it rubber bands harder than I believe it should be, even given that it's a CVT. It's especially bad when the engine is cold. It makes my head move back and forth pretty good so I think it's out of the acceptable rubber-band effect.

Sorry for leaving this thread dead for 2 weeks, I had to wait an extra week since i only ordered 3 quarts of CVT fluid initially and realized you need more than that if changing the filter. Finally did the change yesterday and that fluid was gross. It was a dark brown color, but luckily not burnt-smelling so hopefully the tranny doesn't fail :grin2: haha. The previous owners obviously never did this change since the filter was all rusty and fluid was that dark.

I will keep the thread updated once I can drive it more to see if it improved at all. I'll also post some picture of my coca cola colored fluid so everyone can see how yummy it looks. Thanks for the input mates.
 

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Same here. My friend’s CRZ and mine both do the bunny hop / rubber band thing on low speed or when AC is on. When that happens, I kinda give more gas to it and it will be gone. It’s worse if you keep your throttle same when that happens. I have read somewhere that the computer is actually determining if it should regen or assist during the jerk. Fresh and enough CVT fluid definitely helps tho.
 

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So after driving for 2 weeks now I noticed an incredible difference in how smooth my car feels. I still feel a mild rubber-band effect, but it's drastically better so I'm really happy with that. Like you guys said, it's just a quirck of the car.

It took me a few days though to finally get the CVT fluid level right. I guess it takes a bit of settling to get the new filter filled, but now it's happily right below the max fill line at operating temperature. It took over 3.75 quarts which almost made me think I had a leak at first.

I attached a photo of my old CVT fluid. Stuff was nasty. Cheers folks!
 

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Mine started occurring when I replaced the OEM intake to a Takeda Momentum. Then one day I had a lot of free time so I tried to fix it ("tried", cause I had no idea what I was doing). Noticed how my MAF seal was so worn out, it had a tear so I replaced it and I also sprayed the MAF with a MAF spray cleaner. So far so good, It's been 4 months since I did it and not once have I felt a jerk from pressing on the gas while on a complete stop.
 

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Mine started occurring when I replaced the OEM intake to a Takeda Momentum. Then one day I had a lot of free time so I tried to fix it ("tried", cause I had no idea what I was doing). Noticed how my MAF seal was so worn out, it had a tear so I replaced it and I also sprayed the MAF with a MAF spray cleaner. So far so good, It's been 4 months since I did it and not once have I felt a jerk from pressing on the gas while on a complete stop.


I have the same intake but mine is new. I tried not to torque too much on the seal. I will def keep an eye on it. My jerks once a while and especially turning lol When it happens, I just ease off the gas and cvt will stop jerking.
 

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I attached a photo of my old CVT fluid. Stuff was nasty. Cheers folks!
Any sign of that ever having been yellow?

We had a fellow years ago in a total snit because the shop had put in red ATF, not Honda CVT spec. Haven't heard from him, don't know how it all worked out.
 

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Any sign of that ever having been yellow?



We had a fellow years ago in a total snit because the shop had put in red ATF, not Honda CVT spec. Haven't heard from him, don't know how it all worked out.


My friend’s Honda Civic HX with CVT once was filled with regular ATF by a mechanic and it couldn’t function correctly right out of the shop. They had to drop the oil pan and get all the fluid out over night. The car now works fine but I assume it would have been worse if he were to keep driving it.
 

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Any sign of that ever having been yellow?

We had a fellow years ago in a total snit because the shop had put in red ATF, not Honda CVT spec. Haven't heard from him, don't know how it all worked out.
No, it had a reddish tint to it, so I believe it was the correct fluid. Just very dirty :grin2:
 

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Hm. Honda's fluid is yellow. Hm.
Yup, any "red" in it means ATF, and wrong, wrong, wrong. Could be that it was so dark that you couldn't distinguish whether it was tinged with red, yellow, or gold; just good that it's changed now, and good to change it more often than it had been.:|
 

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color is very subjective.

yellow/gold fluid could very well appear brown/orange as it gets dirty (which in turn, could appear "reddish" as it gets dirtier). of course if we're talking about dresses, the answer is a definite blue/black.

so it could very well be ATF, in which case it would have ran very poorly, if at all... or may be a mixture of it if a previous owner or lazy mechanic had topped your CVT off with ATF, or even gear oil. it could be used cookin oil for all we know unless you analyze it lol.

but good to hear the car is running much better.
 
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