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Discussion starter · #143 ·
Was this a response to my question yesterday that I removed after realizing I'm an idiot who can't read? Hahaha.

They look good tho!
Maaaaaybe :giggle:
 
Again, the car looks great on the Konigs!

Going to from cheapest to most expensive in terms of trying to fix the tire rub...

I would still recommend getting camber bolts for the top of the strut and OEM Honda service bolts for the bottom. The "service bolts" are similar to that of the standard strut bolt EXCEPT that the shank of the bolt (non-threaded section between the head and threads) is thinner. Link to the correct camber bolt below as well as OEM Honda part numbers for the standard and service strut bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNGO0K/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Standard strut bolt: 90188-SCC-000

Service strut bolt: 90188-SCC-A00

Here's a picture of the strut bolts to get an idea on the visual difference of the shanks. The slightly narrower shank gives you a little more room to get some camber adjustment. Factory bolt on top (part number ends with "000" and the service bolt on bottom (ending with "A00").



At minimum, install the camber bolts up top and have the alignment tech shoot for at least -1.5 degrees of camber then give that a go. Like mentioned on FB, you won't really see much tire wear favoring the inner treads of the tire until you start really going beyond -1.7 degrees of camber on most daily driven street cars.

If this doesn't help reduce or fully alleviate the rubbing then you may want to consider going to a 215/45R17 or a 215/40R17.
 
Discussion starter · #145 ·
The installation shop already has me set to swap out for 215s on monday, if that doesn't work I will explore the bolts.
Thanks again for the suggestions, it's been very helpful.
 
Looks like that shoulder just under the flange will obviate any "adjustability" advantage. What are the markings on the bolt heads? The design difference may be a result of grade rating.
 
Looks like that shoulder just under the flange will obviate any "adjustability" advantage. What are the markings on the bolt heads? The design difference may be a result of grade rating.
That shoulder simply fills in the void in the strut for the securing hardware and doesn't contact or insert into the knuckle. The remaining portion of the thinner shank still allows some movement of the knuckle (but not very much) to see some change in camber... Mind you, this is not as effective as an eccentric bolt like the Eibach camber bolt features but it does work. These usually resulted in maybe 0.3 to 0.5 of a degree gains if memory serves me right.

I wish I had one laying around to snap a quick pic or two on one of my stock struts but the my only pair are currently in use.

As for grade, I honestly do not recollect what their grade is but I could definitely imagine it being different than the factory bolts since they do get torqued to the same spec despite the different in shank thickness. I'll have to keep an eye on that for the next pair that I order or see at work.
 
Discussion starter · #148 ·
Updated main post with the car's current layout and future plans.
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
Unfortunately could not afford the HPD Cat-back so I went with the HKS Catback and had it installed today.









Initial impressions, way quieter than the stock muffler delete I was running and I lost the exhaust pops but it's a deeper tone and comes across more "refined" vs the "raw" feeling I had with the de-muffler.
Maybe a downpipe will give me a little more volume and pops back? I do like it otherwise despite the loss of the pops.
 
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Doesn't mean I have given up on getting it though @96firephoenix :)
One of these day right? Well, when you do.. ill buy your HKS!

How do you like the sound as compared to the stock muffler? I have been debating this exhaust for, well, forever. But I don't really want anything louder than stock. The quieter the better around here.

Notice any butt-dyno improvements? How does it sound at WOT? How about idle?

You liking it so far?

BTW: What they charge you for install? Sometimes while I'm laying under the car getting crap in my eyes, neck hurting, I wonder: would it be worth it to pay for this? Usually exhaust stuff is..
 
Discussion starter · #153 ·
It's a deeper stock sound, waay quieter than my de-muffler stock i was running.
I have an in-cab rev video I can toss up here in a bit.

was $100 +tax installed at the shop, took maybe an hour
 
Discussion starter · #157 ·
Placed an order for the Kamispeed Race Test Pipe during Monday's sale!
My ultimate plan is to do a valved exhaust with original cat and tie into mode switch, Sport = Test Pipe, Norm/Eco = Cat, don't know if possible just yet
 
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Discussion starter · #158 ·
Kamispeed Test Pipe Installed....

Returned the volume of the de-muffled setup I used to run with the nice deep tone of the HKS Catback I have now. Unless I happen to find a bag of money somewhere I think this is my final setup for the CRX and Dragon meets.

As for my valved exhaust plan, I got a good look of things while the car was on the lift and before they removed the cat....it doesn't look like there is enough room to run both pipes. Would have been cool though.
 
You beat me to the punch. I was going to recommend the Tegiwa decat pipe. When I did the HPD exhaust, it was marginally louder then stock. The tegiwa pipe really woke up the car with the exhaust volume. If you want something louder then the HKS, I've heard that the J2 engineering exhaust is pretty loud. Might even be louder then the HPD exhaust. https://www.protuninglab.com/j220ho...aiMjlI4WyJ0Ft4Igbp7UistDPnoJ-nbIaAp5GEALw_wcB
It's also pretty cheap at $300.
 
Discussion starter · #160 ·
I am pretty happy with the current setup (though I still want the HPD cause center exit yo) for the time being.
 
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