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2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The CR-Zoo: 2015 K-Tuned Sprintex CRZ ZF1 Base 6MT
Became mine on 3/25/2022 for $13K bought in Dallas

Full List of Changes/Mods:

Supercharger: Sprintex
Tune: K-Tuned
Spark Plugs: OEM > NGK - IZFR6K 13
Fuel Injectors: Acura RDX 410cc Fuel Injectors
Cold Air Intake: Takeda Stage-2 Cold Air Intake - TM-1016B
Radiator: Koyo Racing Aluminum Radiator + Koyo Radiator Cap - SK-C13
Radiator Hose: HPS Blue Reinforced Silicone Radiator Hose Kit
Oil Cap: Spoon Sports Silver Billet
Exhaust: HKS Silent Hi Power - 32016-AH025

Shocks: Koni STR.T Orange - 8750 1102L/R & 8050 1131
Springs: Swift Springs - 4H914
Sway Bar: Progress Rear Sway bar
Wheels: Rota Slipstream 16in - SS16741004067.1FBLK
Tires: 205/50/R16 Falken Pro Sport > 205/50/R16 General Altimax RT43

Shift Knob: SB Lite Weighted Shift Knob > Mugen Red Leather Stitching Weighted Shift Knob - 54102-XMEB-K0S0
Steering Wheel: Red Stitched Alcantara Leather Steering Wheel
Key Fob: Mugen Key FOB
Floor Mats: Mugen Sports Mats - 08P15-XMA-000
Window Visors: Mugen Replica Window Visors
Tint: Titanium Tint 35%
Spoiler: Mugen Replica Spoiler

Maintenance and Work History:
3/28/22 - At Home - Install Ebay Armrest + Fix Shifter Shroud Falling Off
3/30/22 - At Home - Removed previously installed subwoofer
4/1/22 - At Home - Replace Shift Knob with Mugen Shift Knob + Fix shroud falling
4/10/22 - Kuya Auto - Interior Detail
4/4/22 - At Home - Hyper Dipped Wheels to Bronze Gold
4/19/22 - Discount Tire - 4x General Altimax RT43 (65K Warranty @70,100K)
4/23/22 - At Home - Wash, Wax, Polish
4/25/22 - At Home - Windshield Wiper Fluid Top Off
4/28/22 - At Home - Coolant Flush & Change
5/3/22 - At Home - Oil Change (Castrol full synthetic 0W-20) + KN Oil Filter
5/8/22 - At Home - Spark Plug Change 4x NGK 1ZFR6K13
5/10/22 - At Home - Tail light Eyeliner Mod - Rustoleum Semi Gloss Black
5/12/22 - At Home - Change Sprintex Oil - Redline 75W90NS - 58304
5/14/22 - At Home - Installed Hood Louvers - Verus A0212A-BLK
5/15/22 - At Home - Custom fit hatch memory foam - Tempurpedic 3" Mattress Topper

Planned To Do: (matching emojis indicate job to be completed together)
  • Interior Lights Change AMBER - 31MM Festoon LED Bulbs (Dome) + T10 (Plate Light)
  • Cabin Air Filter change 8.31 x 8.05 x 1.14 inches Spearhead Premium Breathe Easy Cabin Filter - Amazon
  • Headlight Restoration - 3M kit - Amazon
  • Hood louver rain guard install - Verus (need to call for PN)
  • Plastic Restore - Black Wow!
  • Sprintex Vent Mod - Ebay+Amazon Thread Seal Tape, 1/4" Male to Male Pipe Fitting, 1/4" Y Splitter Connector with Centre Male to Female outlets Ports, 1/4" BSPT Male Breather Vent, Hydraulic Fitting Metric Coupler Connector Stud Female Coupling Union Steel
  • Remove wax from windows, clean water spots, re-protect
  • 馃幉 Secure Hoses with Hose Clamps
  • 馃幉 Intake Air Filter Cleaning
  • 馃幉 Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaning
  • Sprintex Belt Change
  • 馃悽 Fix wheel paint
  • 馃悽 Tire shine
  • Secure the shark fin antenna cap, not attached well and broken at attachment points
Backburner To Do:
  • Fix Passenger Headlight - Condensation/Water on the inside
  • Headlight eyeliner - unsure if it's worth it?
  • Wheel Spacers - 20mm for rears
  • Rear Wiper reinstall - car was bought deleted, unsure if I want to reinstall
  • Fuel Injector Cleaning
  • Engine Bay Cleaning
  • Sound Deadening - Hatch and Doors then roof and MAYBE undercarriage
  • Dye Headliner to Black
  • Fix Driver side underglow - not turning on
  • 3D Printed Cup holder to fit my water bottle
The Dream (LMK if you're selling cheap!):
  • Feel's Wide Body Fender Kit (front + back + side skirts)
  • JDM Bronze Wheels
  • Mint Blue/Turquoise lower half body paint
  • Noblesse Front Bumper
  • SeaSucker Monkey Bars (roof rack)
  • Mugen Pedals
  • Customer Rocket League Sticker Vinyl
    ZooGambler: Need boost!
    You: Close one!
    ZooGambler: Whew"
  • Sequential Turn Signal Side Mirror Lights
  • Air Suspension/Bags
  • Front Lip
Most Current Picture:
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2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here鈥檚 pictures from the original OfferUp posting spotted in Dallas. Asked the seller a few questions then booked a flight out to Dallas, Texas for a one way drive back home to Arizona. This was my first stick so my Dad spent 30 minutes teaching me in the Kroger parking lot, we got some lunch, then we began the drive home (I drove half the way over).

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This is what the car looked like when I purchased it.
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Got things cleaned up and abs now I鈥檓 still doing all the maintenance work. The list of things completed and need to be completed still found above.

Sprintex oil change, hood louver install, tail light eyeliner mod are on the immediate horizon (hopefully this week)

Right now there鈥檚 a rough idle issue that will stall the car if it doesn鈥檛 automatically go into auto stop. The auto stop never fails if the AC is off. I鈥檝e changed the spark plugs out and still have to clean the intake filter and MAF sensor. If that doesn't work I'll have to get the fuel injectors cleaned.

The catalytic converter and O2 sensor won鈥檛 ready up for emissions testing which has been frustrating. May need a new O2 sensor? May need to add a secondary cat? Here's the sheet they gave me. Called the place that tuned the car, they鈥檙e unable to make changes to set the cat/O2 sensor on or off so I don鈥檛 think it鈥檚 the tune causing the readiness issues.

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But overall, love the car. It's got some pep to it and is SO much fun to drive. Had several compliments from overhearing strangers with the windows down (I drive past ASU fairly frequently). Some people have revved their engines at me or given a wave/thumbs up and another several have tried to race. If you see me around, I'll probably be wearing a mask but please wave at me- if you have a CRZ I've definitely noticed your car!

2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Disabling the secondary o2 sensor with a tune means the readiness will never complete.
They told me it seems they never were able to even originally disable it. They also said they would have re-enabled it and sent me the new map but the option to disable/reenable was completely greyed out and unable to be changed.

good area to target is the floorpan in front of the shifter. huge improvement for very little effort
If it's "very little effort" then I'll definitely hit this area too when I do the doors and hatch. Thanks for the tip!

2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Completed the tail light eyeliner mod today. Looks SO much cleaner. Amazing how subtle and easy a change this was and how much of a difference it made to the rear aesthetics.

Things Needed: Masking tape, scrap paper, semi gloss paint/primer, sand paper, screwdriver, flat head screwdriver.

Remove tail lights (10mins)- Open trunk, use flat head to open plastic coverings where it hides the 2 screws that are fastening in the entire tail light. Remove screws.
Pop out the tail lights by tugging firmly but gently on them after the screws are removed.
Remove lights from housing. This should be very easy.

Tape up the tail lights (30-40mins)- Use masking tape and scrap butcher paper to cover the parts you don't want painted. You can probably do this faster but I wanted to make sure it was done well.
I taped everything off except the very outer edges (see pictures).

Sand the edges- Use high grit sandpaper to scuff the edges up. You don't have to go too crazy. Wipe down the lights with microfiber cloth to ensure it's clean before painting.

Spray paint the edges (1 hour, 15 mins between coats)- Use the spray paint to put 2 light coats, then 2 heavier coats. Wait 15 minutes between each coat.
I used semi-gloss paint+primer. I'd recommend full gloss instead.
(Feel free to spray clear coat after letting dry for at least 1 hour, maybe 2-3 coats. I didn't clear coat.)

Let lights completely dry (24 hours)

Remove paper/tape and reinstall tail lights (10 mins)

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2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
No installed pictures?
Just edited the post to include a trunk open picture for your viewing pleasure! The installed pictures are 2, 5, 6, and 7. Tried to put before/after back to back for easier comparison. :)

Just purchased some amber license plate and dome lights as well. Will install when they arrive next week. Dome: 31MM Festoon LED Bulb (amber) License Plate: T10 (amber)

Sprintex oil change planned for today Red Line 58304 Gear Oil (75W90NS) (per Sprintex manual).

Also planning to hyperdip the "Supercharged Hybrid" badging to bronze gold and use a paint pen to get the lettering black. Will also probably remove the two smaller stickers on the back to get a more symmetrical look.

Anyone have a good link to a Mugen badge that would fit on the spoiler?

Don't abuse the report button
2,216 Posts
Has your Sprintex been running fine without a vented hood?
mine did not run fine over the summer without a vent. I started losing oil after about 3 months, and the bearings started making noise about a year later.

that said, I didn't have any sort of gearcase vent on it, so all that case pressure went into blowing out the front seal.

2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Has your Sprintex been running fine without a vented hood?
It seems to have been running just fine as of now. I push the car fairly hard too maybe 1-3 times a week. (It's just way too fun D: ) My only confirmation on the last oil change on it was just about 2 years ago- in between then and now, I have no idea when it was last done so I'm doing that hopefully today. Hood louvers hopefully this weekend.

mine did not run fine over the summer without a vent. I started losing oil after about 3 months, and the bearings started making noise about a year later. That said, I didn't have any sort of gearcase vent on it, so all that case pressure went into blowing out the front seal.
I glanced over my Sprintex and don't think it has a gearcase vent either. You've got me worried since I'm in Arizona and my car gets parked in the sun during work hours, it's starting to heat up over here now too.

I've briefly seen something about another vent mod for the Sprintex but can't find any info relating to what the mod actually is or how to complete it. Hood vents will hopefully help, thanks again for the suggestion!

2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Changed out the Sprintex oil. I was intimidated a bit at first but honestly it was easier than the regular oil change. The oil was pretty dark and it was definitely starting to run low.

Things needed: Sprintex recommended Redline 75W90NS Oil PN 58304, oil pan, Allen wrenches, funnel & hose, piggy blanket, paper towel, syringe

Prep work space- Jack up the car to fit oil pan beneath the car, piggy blanket over the radiator to prevent spills, funnel & hose set up to run towards the oil pan to catch the old oil

Drain the old oil- Use the Allen wrench to remove the drain bolt located at the bottom end of the Sprintex. Let it drain fully. Use some kind of syringe or straw to extract the oil sitting at the bottom of the Sprintex that won鈥檛 reach the drain. Wipe the area down and put the drain bolt back in. Wipe area again.

Put in new oil- Use Allen wrench to remove the top bolt located at the top of the Sprintex. Use syringe to get 54ml of oil and refill the Sprintex. Wipe area down and put the bolt back on.

All done- clean up and that鈥檚 it!

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Don't abuse the report button
2,216 Posts
I glanced over my Sprintex and don't think it has a gearcase vent either

here's your homework lol.

So long as you aren't blowing oil out the front seal, you'll be alright.

Don't abuse the report button
2,216 Posts
Prep work space- Jack up the car to fit oil pan beneath the car,
bro, go to the grocery store and get some mini loaf pans or something, no need to go to all that.


2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I鈥檒l probably do that vent mod regardless, rather safe than sorry and it鈥檒l give me some peace of mind even though everything looks all right still. I鈥檒l get the pieces ordered!

I was feeling too lazy to hit the store to grab those so maybe next time. Plus I had to take a peek under the car so it was jacked up already anyways haha

EDIT: Ordered the pieces for the vent kit 5/13/22 Parts Link
Also ordered interior dome lights and license plate lights in amber.

2011 Honda CR-Z EX CVT
224 Posts
Well, if you are in Arizona and have not installed the gearcase vent or a vented hood yet, then I definitely should be fine with no vented hood until my CF hood arrives. I'm over here driving around in the Texas summer heat, and in slow traffic to work. I'll be installing my new Sprintex soon, guess I'll have to create my own build thread soon as well.

2015 Sprintex CRZ Base 6MT
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
PICTURES PLACEMENT PENDING - Got distracted and took more videos than I did pictures

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Grey Gas Road surface Tints and shades Asphalt

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Installed the hood louvers a couple days ago. I scratched the hood a bit D:

Also cut and fitted a Tempurpedic mattress pad to it in the trunk to lay back in. I got a full size 3" mattress topper for about $30 on OfferUp. Measured out the back, used butcher paper to draw out a template for cutting. Cut it to match the hatch using a foam cutter we had laying around. Found an old bed sheet to wrap it with then laid it out. It's extremely comfortable and was perfect to check out the Blood Moon Eclipse last night. (I'm 5' 7" so I can lay down in the back with my legs up comfortably, not sure if this would work for the taller folk)

Things Needed: socket wrench/wrenches, grinder and blades, drill, flat head screw driver, old blanket, the hood louver kit, masking/painters tape + butcher paper, sharpie, drill and drill bits, spray paint.


Remove hood-
  • Remove windshield wipers with wrench- just one bolt each. I recommend placing some tape down to indicate the placement of the windshield wipers when you go to put them back on.
  • Pop out plastic between hood and windshield- there's two plastic fasteners on the underside that I used a flat head screwdriver to pop out. From there it's just yanking and tugging at the bits. You'll have to pull out the corner pieces and separate them so that you can move the plastic trim out of the way from the bolts attaching the hood.
  • Use socket wrench to remove the hood dampeners if you have them.
  • Use socket wrench to remove bolts attaching the hood to the car.
  • Place hood on the blanket you've laid out.
Template your cuts-
  • Placement was optimized from 96phoenix's conversation with Verus. I used PN: A0212A-BLK per their recommendation as well. I just placed the first hood louver down approximately where the pictures showed. (Over the Sprintex)
  • Then I taped around that area for an area for me to create an outline.
  • I then made an outline with sharpie on the taped down area (where I will be doing the cutting).
  • I used the paper template to mark down 3 or 4 drill points.
  • I ran a piece of tape across the whole hood and measured & marked to the middle point of the hood.
  • I then measured what felt like 50 times to match up the 3 or 4 bolt points to mark on the opposite side of the hood for the second louver. (This area is taped too)
  • Match the templates up to the bolts you marked. Then make the outlines for where to cut and where your drilling points are. At this point you should have both sharpie outlines made on your tape and all the bolt points as well.
  • Cover your non-working area with tape and butcher paper
The scary bit-
  • Start by drilling your holes for the fastening bolts. You can use a slightly larger drill bit than flush so that if you're off ever so slightly you can still fit the bolts. I would just make sure one or two are perfectly sized holes so that as you're placing them if you need wiggle room, you can still make sure that the louver doesn't move too much.
  • You'll want to drill all the way through the under metal too so you have a reference of where to cut the under part of the hood.
  • Do this for both sides.
  • Then use a large drill bit to drill holes in the corners of outline so that you can just create straight cuts with the grinder for the outer edges of the template. Do this on both sides as well.
  • Then you'll cut the edges out with your saw/grinder tool. It should be fairly easy. Your lines don't have to be perfect and you'll probably be fine even if you go a little bit outside your lines as it'll eventually get covered up by the hood louver anyways.
  • At this point you'll still have the hood undercarriage metal to remove so you'll have to flip the hood over but before you do, be sure to clean your workspace again as there's bits of metal that will be all over the floor. (I scratched my hood because I skipped this step)
  • Once your work area is clean, flip the hood over and begin cutting that metal underneath. This is where you'll reference the drill holes for the bolts. Since you need space to put the bolts on, you'll cut approx 1/2"-1" outside of those bolt holes so they're accessible to tighten later. Be careful when cutting as you don't want to accidentally cut through to the hood and some of the places you'll be cutting are close to touching the hood.
  • Yank those pieces out and BOOM you've got your cuts.
Protect the metal-
  • After all cuts are finished, you'll want to try fitting the hood louvers in to check the fit. Don't remove the tape or coverings yet and just see if you can get the louvers in. It doesn't have to sit completely flush just as best as you can where it's close.
    • If you can't get it to fit with your drilled holes you'll have to widen them out (be careful, this is where I also got some scratches)
    • I placed the hood louver down and made marks in sharpie where the bolts wanted to lay then repeated the process over and over until it eventually fit the drill holes.
  • Once the fit is correct, remove the hood louvers, flip the hood over (again make sure your work surface is free of metal), then use your spray paint to cover the exposed metal. I did 3 coats, 15 minutes between coats and 1 hour to dry to touch.
Fit the Hood Louvers-
  • Remove tape and protective coverings
  • Fit hood louvers into place
  • Tighten them down with wrench/socket. Don't go too tight just a 1/8th turn once you feel resistance should be enough. (this is the point where if your louvers aren't completely flush, you should be able to tighten them up flush)
Put the hood back on the car-
  • Do the inverse of removing the hood, line up your wipers to the tape that you left on the windshield for placement.
  • When you first close the hood, if you have a Sprintex, close the hood slowly as I was warned that the Sprintex may be a little too close to the hood where the louvers may make contact with it. This was not the case for me though and fit perfectly fine.
  • If the louver is making contact with the Sprintex then just slowly keep marking off where you're making contact and use the grinder to precisely trim the louvers down to fit. You'll want to avoid grinding as much as possible.
Clean up-
  • Clean up your workspace and hood for any leftover residue from taping. I used Goo-Gone for that and then washed the car like normal.
  • Overall started at around 7am and got done around 6pm. I took several breaks though, it's hot in AZ gotta stay cool and hydrated
Before and After
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