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Discussion Starter #1
I open/close my glovebox many times per day, thinking it is one solid, sturdy assembly. Yet, I've found it's only as strong as its weakest link, and that link is the plastic latch that slides in and out to hold the door closed tight against the metal striker/hook.

Well, it broke last year, and I found that the handle/latch is an integrated part of the glovebox, and the only part available to replace the broken latch is to buy a whole new glovebox assembly. I just wanted to quickly fix the problem, so I ordered and installed a new OEM glovebox (forget the actual price, but it was something outrageous like $200-300.)

I've been trying out many glues, epoxies, and such, but found the only thing that would actually hold the broken plastic parts together was a superglue combo which had a liquid glue that works like a superglue, plus a powder that's sprinkled over the liquid to create a hard, sandable bond.
The glue is HG Power Glue, and is a bit pricey at $30, but can be used for other projects too, so I may have to fix a few more broken things to make it worth the price.
As an alternative, I'm gathering some miscellaneous Honda glovebox handle/latches that you can buy separately to see if they can be modified to use as a replacement, instead of gluing a bad design back together. Plus, some of those handle/latches cost less than the only glue I've found that's good enough for this repair anyway. So, for the time being, I'll keep the outer skin of the glovebox appart so I can test fit "replacement" latches.

I'll just attach some pics, but the basic steps to repair the broken latch are as follows:

Removal/disassembly.
1) Open the glovebox. (Yeah, right, the latch is broken, so I can't open it!) There's a small hole in the underside of the handle that you can make contact with the broken latch. I you just push a small screwdirver up into the hole, you will actually be pushing that latch into the closed position, so if you hold the handle open just wide enough to get the screwdriver in the hole, then push the front panel of the glovebox in, it will release some of the pressure against the striker to be able to pull the latch down enough to free it from the striker (but there is a light spring holding tension against it, so wiggle and cussing might help, as well as pushing/pulling the door slightly in and out at the same time.) It took me only a few seconds to release it, but another guy said it was much more stubborn, and took 10-15 minutes.
2) Remove glovebox (page 20-94 in the service manual) by first removing the passenger vent/dashboard panel; the middle panel; the dashboard undercover. This will get you access to the screws securing the glovebox to the dash.
3) Remove the door from the glovebox assembly.
4) Fun part. The front and back panels of the door are fused together, so just use a spanner tool to work around the perimeter until it "breaks" it open. There is an extra strength, bonded portion, right at the center, in the handle/latch area that can/must be pried apart too, but make sure you free up all the bonded/attached points aroud the edges of the door first, then work your way in from the side furthest from the latch area, leaving that part to pry open last. Note that all the bonded points are in a horizontal line across the lid, so work form left to right along the whole length, as you work in from bottom to top (to the latch.)
5) Easy part--remove handle/latch. Two philips head screws hold the handle/latch to the front/outer panel that you've split apart from the inner panel of the door. Remove the screws and lift handle out of its pocket. Your latch may have fallen out at this point, so working on a clean surface will help you spot the broken tab that is more than likely the reason for the broken latch.

Repair.
1) Put one drop or so, of HG Power Glue on the latch, then place the broken piece in the proper orientation/position.
2) Once both parts are holding together, drip a small amount of the liquid glue around the intersection of both parts and immediately sprinkle the magic powder over the glue and let it dry (I gave it 24-48 hours, but instructions say it's ready to work with a lot sooner.)
3) Sand/file excess bonding material away until you get to the original size/shape of the part.
4) Test fit the latch into its base on the handle, sliding it in and out to make sure there are no edges of the repair area getting in the way of its smooth operation. Note that there's a slot in the latch in which a lever "finger" of the handle slips into to move the latch, and make sure it can slide freely in that slot. (It helps to leave off the brass/metal strip that was secured to the handle by one of the mounting screws, and you'll notice that you'll have to bend the center of the plastic handle a bit to initially get the latch in the slot, but focus on the free movement of the latch after you get it in the proper position.)

Assembly/Installation.
1) Liberally apply Honda Shin Etsu grease, or equivalent silicone grease, to the spring, latch, metal strip, and mounting surfaces of the latch.
2) Assemble latch and spring to the handle and temporarily screw it onto the door front cover without the metal strip. Work/open the latch with the handle, and note for the first time, it will not move as freely as it should, so move the latch directly, and not fully/solely by the handle. This may be due to bending of the handle to initially get the latch into its slot. I waited until the next day, and it was moving freely, but it could take less time to let it restore back to its natural shape.
3) After handle/latch is operating freely, unscrew the left side screw and slide the metal strip under the latch and into the slot and screw back together securely.
4) The latch should only extend out to show about half the width of the metal strip. Put some more Shin Etsu on the latch in this area, and periodically grease the head of the latch after the glovebox is installed--this may prolong the life of the weakest part of this assembly.
5) I used Dow U-428 Windshield Urethane to bond the two pieces of the door back together, but just because it was handy and I know it holds securely (plus, it's black, so if any oozed out the edges, it would still match my graphite black glovebox.) I wrapped a towel around the door to protect it and used multiple clamps, leaving it overnight to dry/bond securely.
6) Reinstall the glovebox to the dash.

Related links, but read the whole thread, since some of the earlier posts in the thread are first attempts:

Glovebox, with door removed:
60625


Glovebox door:
60626


Glovebox door cover, removed:
60627


Separated latch handle:
60628
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #2
CR-Z Glovebox latch repair; additional pics:

Latch, after gluing broken pin:
60629


Latch and spring (the white residue is liberally applied grease:
60630


Handle parts, being reattached:
60631


Latch assembly mounted back onto the door skin:
60632
 
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