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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
3 days ago, temperatures soared to 40 degrees celcius where I live and I doubt my little CR-Z has ever had to deal with these temps in its life. The A/C worked fine until I hit the highway and started accelerating. I felt it get warmer and then hot and then it wouldn't work anymore. Blower works, heater works, vents & actuators work. I am still doing diagnostic and electrical testing (I only have the coil resistance and low pressure sensor left to test), but I have power to all A/C components. The engine revs increase when I turn on the A/C, it sounds like something turns on, but there is no A/C clutch engagement (checked shims, within spec, even tried removing shim), no condenser fan/rad fan activation (unless low pressure sensor is unplugged). Is there any way I can determine if the compressor is turning on? Will the compressor turn on without the coil or fans? Which one is dependent on which? The electrical components of this whole ordeal have been insanely confusing and I don't want to remove the A/C pulley yet.

Battery tests at 12.4V when car is off, 14.4V when car is on. Only wire that doesn't get power when A/C is on is the condenser fan and rad fan (even after a long drive) but the relays and wires check out. What is going on?!

ETA: The mechanic I work next to also checked it out. He didn't do any electrical testing but did simple things like recharging the A/C. He told me he didn't get any power to the compressor but I have every time I have probed it.
 

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It seems like you hit the main beats of the clutch and shims. Have you used the search feature? Someone might have had asked a similar question about the electronics of the AC unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It seems like you hit the main beats of the clutch and shims. Have you used the search feature? Someone might have had asked a similar question about the electronics of the AC unit.
Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I've been searching CRZForums and exercising my google-fu quite a bit on this issue. I don't generally turn to forums for help unless I'm at the end of my rope. I've tried everything I'm able to and I'm now extending my troubleshooting to everything available in the service manual. So far, no dice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In my case condenser fan was off because the low pressure sensor was faulty...
I do want to check this. However, service manual requires use of HDS to check voltage on the sensor. Are there any ways to test this part without HDS? I assume simply having power isn't good enough because the manual specifies 0.3v is nominal.
 

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Digital Volt Meter (or even an analog one). You buy one for $7( or more) at Harbor Freight or similar , a hardware store, Lowes , Home Depot or equivalent. Or even rent a better one for free from many auto parts places. Everyone should have basic tools like this. I have a few different ones but keep an HF one in my "Tech Bag" for doing field service. I have worked as an IT technician for a few years and I have good tools for use when I am home and cheaper tools for when I am using my tools at work and they maybe stolen.

I do want to check this. However, service manual requires use of HDS to check voltage on the sensor. Are there any ways to test this part without HDS? I assume simply having power isn't good enough because the manual specifies 0.3v is nominal.
 

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Does the Climate control on the CR_Z have the self diagnostic mode?
The G1 Insight did, you pressed certain buttons and it cycled through some self checks.
 

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Yes. It does. However in my case it didn’t throw any codes with pressure sensor faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does the Climate control on the CR_Z have the self diagnostic mode?
The G1 Insight did, you pressed certain buttons and it cycled through some self checks.
Yes. It does. However in my case it didn’t throw any codes with pressure sensor faulty.
I did both the diagnostic shown in the video and the sensor check detailed in the service manual. Both turned up normal. It's good to know that the climate module doesn't throw codes with this problem. The service manual outlines this for my symptoms as well so I'm very hopeful it's just the sensor. I will test it and report back here when I do.
 

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It's more than likely the clutch or the A/C compressor going bad. I had A/C problems once I got close to 100k miles, replaced the compressor and now I have working A/C. The first issue I had with the A/C was actually the clutch being stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So it's been a while. Life takes over priorities pretty quick!


Here's where we're at: I've checked (again) all fuses and relays, checked engine codes, inspected all of the wires and grounding points relative to the A/C and related systems and everything checks out. No engine codes, no DTCs, all clear.

I took a multimeter to the single phase wire coming out of the coil. I set my multimeter to resistance, tested it to make sure it was reading correctly, and checked. I placed my red prong to the red wire for the coil, and grounded the black prong to the screw on the side of the compressor housing where its ground wire is attached. The multimeter stays at 1 Ohm, no change. Now, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but I would have to assume this means there's a break or a disconnection somewhere inside the coil, as the multimeter cannot "find" its way to the other end. I tried grounding to multiple other areas, tried different parts of the hot wire, to no avail. Lastly I tried connecting the coil's hot wire directly to the battery positive to check for any activity or engagement, and nothing. Now it occurs to me that charging the coil with the vehicle off and nothing else happening might not be the best way to check for a magnetic connection, but shouldn't I be hearing a click or something when plugging in the coil if it works?

Thanks for everyone's input, I appreciate it. I am aware that a full replacement of my compressor is the best solution but I don't have the money and it's HOT. A compressor coil is only $100 and a long wait... but it's not $1000+ and not having a car for a couple days.
 

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Your logic to replace the coil makes sense. Many replace the whole compressor when they do not need to .
A compressor from RockAuto has the following prices with no core charge. That is just for the part and is less than $250 for the most expensive one. They ship internationally.
64398


Unfortunately they do not list the clutch separately but I presume any decent Auto parts place should have them available. Another option is a used unit from https://www.redlineautoparts.com/honda-cr-z/
So it's been a while. Life takes over priorities pretty quick!


Here's where we're at: I've checked (again) all fuses and relays, checked engine codes, inspected all of the wires and grounding points relative to the A/C and related systems and everything checks out. No engine codes, no DTCs, all clear.

I took a multimeter to the single phase wire coming out of the coil. I set my multimeter to resistance, tested it to make sure it was reading correctly, and checked. I placed my red prong to the red wire for the coil, and grounded the black prong to the screw on the side of the compressor housing where its ground wire is attached. The multimeter stays at 1 Ohm, no change. Now, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but I would have to assume this means there's a break or a disconnection somewhere inside the coil, as the multimeter cannot "find" its way to the other end. I tried grounding to multiple other areas, tried different parts of the hot wire, to no avail. Lastly I tried connecting the coil's hot wire directly to the battery positive to check for any activity or engagement, and nothing. Now it occurs to me that charging the coil with the vehicle off and nothing else happening might not be the best way to check for a magnetic connection, but shouldn't I be hearing a click or something when plugging in the coil if it works?

Thanks for everyone's input, I appreciate it. I am aware that a full replacement of my compressor is the best solution but I don't have the money and it's HOT. A compressor coil is only $100 and a long wait... but it's not $1000+ and not having a car for a couple days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Your logic to replace the coil makes sense. Many replace the whole compressor when they do not need to .
A compressor from RockAuto has the following prices with no core charge. That is just for the part and is less than $250 for the most expensive one. They ship internationally.
View attachment 64398

Unfortunately they do not list the clutch separately but I presume any decent Auto parts place should have them available. Another option is a used unit from https://www.redlineautoparts.com/honda-cr-z/
Thanks for this. I had been wondering about aftermarket compressors for a bit but didn't know if any of them would fit but this narrows it down substantially. I'm going to look at getting a new coil in first and go from there. My (highly biased and internet forum) research leads me to believe Honda AC coils fail far, far before the compressor ever does.

My other question for members here: are A/C coils a universal fit, or multi-fit? Obviously an AC Compressor off of a similar year insight would be the same parts, but what about an off-brand eBay A/C coil? Some of those list as fitting CR-Z, Accord, Civic, on and on. The factory OEM coils are, of course, entirely vehicle specific. But if I can get a coil from a hardware store or something dumb, I'd fix this sooner and with less cash spent.
 

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The cost is low enough to just replace the compressor with new. I would think they are a matched part to the car. Not worth messing around or doing the work 2 times. Rockauto if you search by the right year and model they guarantee it will fit. I searched for my car and these parts generally fit all years but do your own search and confirm.
 
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