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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
The car will try and use the full useable capacity. Whatever that is for OEM Lithium in the CRZ.
Presumably it will find out that perhaps one of the cells is weak and it will chop down the useable capacity again in due course.

Please post an IMA list like I did. Just go into IMA 'datalist', once it has populated with info, click the print icon to print it to a wps file.
I then used an online service to convert the wps file into a pdf for posting.
 

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Discussion Starter #123 (Edited)
It basically works as designed. :devilish:

Faking the voltages under heavy assist down to the 84V~ PPP (Peak Power Point) we get an extra 20A for free across the board!

If the car was assisting at 90A we get 110A If the car was assisting at 105A we get 125A ( I saw just over 125A peak current)
In power terms assuming a voltage of 137V under load that equates to an increase of 2.7kw for me over previous levels.

Peak power today was about 17kw

I'm going to do away with the switch and just have it activated by the assist current level.
It comes in smoothly and it's pretty pointless having to bother with the switch, you may as well have it enabled all the time. LOL.

We can always tweak the current set point if needed.

Sorry my action camera thing is not set correctly Grrr.
I failed to record any figures from my meter. Will try again later.


So we have maxed out stage one now by forcing the car to use maximum OEM current at the 1V per cell voltage peak power point.
I actually ended up with two 43V zener diodes in series to give 86V which helps with long term reliability as it's less on the cusp/edge.
The extra amp you might squeeze by screwing it right down to 84V is not worth the extra hassle or reliability impact.

We haven't maxed out the voltage hacking though as that still needs work.
We haven't even started hacking the actual current sensors yet!!!

So jobs for the next few days in no particular order.

1) Enable the current activated PPP Mode 24/7.
2) Add the extra regen brake switch parallel switch hack.
3) Pull it all out again and neaten the install.
4) Take it to the rolling road.
 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
I automated the PPP device (removed the button) and managed to get my video gadget to record a brief squirt of assist at 17kw. :cool:
It just comes into play automatically above 50A of assist. This trigger level can/could be altered/fine tuned.

 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Depressing the clutch does disable the assistance and charging on my 2013 car so probably also on yours. Therefore easy to modify this to give the effect of pressing the pedal when the batteries overheat. (there are 3 switches on the pedal - up, not up, fully down. I will try and determine which pedal position disables the IMA tomorrow.

Paralleling the Brake & Clutch switches too....

1) Increase regen without touching brake pedal.
2) Disable assist/and or regen when it's not wanted.

The brake switch mod can be done on all standard cars and improves efficiency when slowing down as you recapture more energy.
It's been done on many IMA cars for years. ;)
Judicious and appropriate use of the switches might get you a little bit of extra mpg as well. :cool:

The clutch pedal has three separate switches.

A) Clutch Interlock. That's the switch at the top right as you look up from under the dashboard.
B) One dedicated to the Cruise system.
C) One dedicated to the Gear Shift Indicator.

I think the Clutch interlock switch A is probably the one that does the IMA disable. So that's the one that I will try first.

If the clutch switch mod works without errors then that can also be done on all cars to improve driveability.
It gives you flexibility to disable assist or regen (when driving along in gear) if you don't want it.

Scenarios where it can be very useful include Batteries full or empty or too hot/cold, etc etc
Or you just don't want to deplete it climbing the next big hill.

I usually install this in the ignition cowling and extend the switch shaft so you can operate it with you finger when steering normally.

I note someone on the forum did the regen mod years ago using flappy paddles which is nice but this is a simple cheap solution.

I do quite fancy flappy paddles though for controlling hacking stuff! Very OEM look.
 

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Activating more regen with the switch will also activate the brake lights. It was my plan to fit a switch as well and I was hoping the first switch to operate would not also turn on the brake lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Correct. It's sensible to have the brake lights coming on IMHO as you will be slowing down.
As you hack for more power you also get more regen which increases the retarding effect.
I don't want to be rear ended by a Muppet. Ooh err Matron!
 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
Well accessing the yellow clutch switch A wires for soldering/crimping etc is a non starter IMO.
Upside down in the footwell it's an inaccessible bastard.

62631


So it will have to be a pass thru connector, which means I need a clutch switch (or equivalent male harness receptacle) and the female harness connector plus about 6 inches of wire.

I'll also do the same for the green brake switch, although it is slightly easier to access but has a weird connector see pics.

62633


So if anyone has a scrapper and can send me the parts switches and harness that would be great. Any offers.. |

Perhaps someone knows what the various connectors/part numbers are, none of my Insight OEM ones fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I def can't be bothered with that.. LOL I'll cannibalize some switches and connectors from a breakers yard. :rolleyes:

I've taken the Lithium setup and IPU all out again now as there is only so much 'temporary mounting' and spaghetti I can stand.

I would quite like to put two LTO blocks under the IPU and perhaps one above.
Anyway time to test my Aluminium metal work skills a bit.
Quite a few things I want to do now so it won't be running for a bit.

1) Move main fuse to an accessible location and uprate to 150/200A.

2) Add some capacitors to the BCM fooler to improve stability.

3) Bring our some pre-charge contactor wiring to tackle the current sensor fault at 175V.

4) Bring out the phase and current sensor outputs to an accessible location for hacking.

5) Mount the LTO blocks in a safe and secure way.

6) Modify the IPU mounting brackets and ducting so it can be removed without having to pull out the interior trim.
I might have to cut some access slots into the non visible below boot floor level of the side trims to get to the 4 bolts.

7) Add the brake/clutch switches.

Loads of other things I have forgotten.
 

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I can't find any way to save the HDS data list other than in the .dat file which we cannot read. (even Wireshark cannot decode it)
Mine is not the tablet version and I did try the print icon but nothing happened.
I can only take screenshots such as the one attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Musing over options re installing the LTO packs.


Two packs for the OEM Voltage level is fairly easy.
Three packs for the hacked high voltage option is more tricky.
I would really like them all in the OEM Battery space.

62637


Two blocks no problem.
Plenty of space at the back and on the right for the switchboard.

62638


Three blocks good space at the back, nice and symmetrical but no clearance on the right for the switchboard :(

62639


Three blocks again but using a special end to end block and two normal ones.
This looks like the optimum to get them into the OEM space.
Slightly less crush zone at the back but adequate space on the right for the switchboard.
Just need to grind those tabs off on the right of the blocks.

Hmm.. Lots of work to do.. Ideas welcomed..
 

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More HDS screenshots from my 2013 CRZ.
 

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Discussion Starter #138 (Edited)
Trying to reduce the height of the IPU so the LTO batteries fit underneath.

Dremel and duct tape work etc to block any gaps and ensure the stock cooling works well.

62651



I replaced the OEM 125A fuse with a bus bar as I will be putting a 175A one in a more accessible location.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Inching slowly forwards.


Adding padding and insulation for the bottom of the IPU.
Balancing and assembling the LTO blocks into the 2 x triple block config.
Redoing the switchboard so wires come out of the back rather than the front and insulating connections etc.

Looking at the mounting and making it removable without pulling out all the trim. See below.

62656


In the picture above I might cut the bars off at the orange lines.
Drill 8mm holes through the bars and the floor at the orange dots.
Mount a captive nut and bolt on a massive washer on the underside/outside.

I need to investigate underneath but I think the area will be clear enough for a captive nut and washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
A bit of a lull today watching the Rugby and waiting for the overwhelmed postal service to deliver some parts.

Added the gizmo activation current sensor to the back of the switchboard and reprogrammed the voltage fooler as I had to reverse the sensor orientation.

Plan tomorrow make up the captive boot bolts/plates tomorrow and chop down the support bars.
 
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