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Hi, i have been admiring the honda crz for about 2 years now and i have finally got the chance to buy it, the only Crz’s available in my location are in a really bad condition generally but some have kept the car with care and they don’t wanna sell it, i came across a crz for sale that caught my attention straight away, its a zf1(2012) in black color with the mugen kit installed, i have fallen in love with this car and i drove it and it was a really great ride, the only thing im worried about before buying it is that its at 130000 kms at the moment and im doubtful that the ima system(hybrid batteries) will break on me as soon as i get it even tho im gonna keep it with alot of care. Any advice if i should buy a less mileage car or just get this one?
Thanks!
 

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Depends on the selling price.
130k km is about 80k miles and this is not that high and would not put me off.
But if it is the pre facelfit model with NiMh IMA batteries, it would, unless very cheap. (there was a mk1 near me for £3000 and 100k miles (160k km) but I didn't bother even looking at it)

I believe both battery types are supposed to have a 10year life so you may not have any issues for a few years, or maybe its for sale because the seller knows the batteries are shot or the DC-DC converter or IMA fan is faulty.

You need a long test drive to make sure no warning lights come on.
 

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Many CR-Zs are sold when the owners lives change like addition of a baby etc. Many have sold because it no longer meets their needs. The mileage on this one is lower than most . My 2013 just turned over 75K Miles for instance. Average mileage on vehicles is 12000 Miles a year ( due to pandemic a little less this year) . Have it checked out if it is in good condition and passes all inspections and the price is good then buy it. Compare the price on this one to similar ones in similar condition and see what Kelly blue book says evaluate the condition accurately. No used car is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Depends on the selling price.
130k km is about 80k miles and this is not that high and would not put me off.
But if it is the pre facelfit model with NiMh IMA batteries, it would, unless very cheap. (there was a mk1 near me for £3000 and 100k miles (160k km) but I didn't bother even looking at it)

I believe both battery types are supposed to have a 10year life so you may not have any issues for a few years, or maybe its for sale because the seller knows the batteries are shot or the DC-DC converter or IMA fan is faulty.

You need a long test drive to make sure no warning lights come on.
I found another one zf2(2013) with only 70k kms and its really good and i drove it but the steering felt stiff, i drove it on all 3 modes but only a slight change and as you know crz has a pretty smooth drive but the steering just threw me off and im getting a great deal too so kinda confused between 2 Crz’s now, one is 2012 with high mileage and other is a 2013 with low mileage but a stiff steering, the owner said that he installed 15 inch rims and just got the car engine foundation repaired and also the catalytic converter cleaned, could these be a reason for a stiff stearing?
 

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Have the newer one checked out by a shop these usually come with 16 " wheels but stiff could be anything in the suspension. Up to and including a damaged electric steering rack.
 

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Maybe the 15" wheels have thrown out the steering geometry. If the steering is very heavy perhaps the electric steering pump is not working.

The steering is heavier in 'sport' mode and has good weighting in normal.
Also, my 2013 model has a strange vagueness and slight stiffness in a straight line which is probably the cause of a slight wandering tendency. (it's a GT model with 17" alloys)
The tracking is okay, at least as far as even tyre wear goes, it brakes in a straight line and there are no knocks
The annual vehicle check (MOT) is on friday so any worn bushes will be detected by the tester I expect.

I would find out how much a steering rack or pump costs and use this to barter the price down.
 

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Couldn't disagree more. Never rely on the service history, use your eyes and ask for receipts/invoices for any work done.
Here is why:

This is my 2013 car with a full Honda history and that air filter has never been changed for years. It's hardly a big or expensive job so if they can't be trusted to do it, what else has not been done? Oil filter? Cabin filter - certainly this also had never been changed.

You should always service any newly purchased vehicle, regardless of the service history so you have the peace of mind and the performance will be optimised. With that filthy filter, my CRZ's performance was disappointing.

PS my car passed its annual inspection with no issues at all - I had replaced the rear discs and fitted new pads all round. In the UK the emissions are not checked on hybrids but the tester measured them anyway, or tried to. The CO was unmeasurable and HCs were close to zero so the cats were working.
 

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I have a 2011 with 160.000 miles and its been raced to hell, I did manage to blow my CVT Transmission but I have not blown the engine yet. My car has been turbocharged for 3000 miles and I'm still trying to blow the engine but it just won't quit on me. I mean I'm not really trying to blow the engine but I have looked into replacing it just in case that day comes. I have a very safe boost of 7psi on the turbo but you know any minute now I think I can throw a rod.

80.000 miles dang thats a new car lol
 

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i have 150000 and it drives like new. i have it listed for sale here but im thinking that im going to regret letting her go. its the best driving car i have ever owned. 80k? bro buy it!
 
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