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Discussion Starter #1
I'm debating doing the clutch on my 2011 CRZ EX as the shop wants $1200 to install.

How hard is this job to get done? Reading the FSM it doesn't seem too hard, just time consuming.

If I decide to do this, what additional parts do people recommend replacing. Seals and such..

Axle seals? Anything else?

I have the following listed for necessary parts. Will I need new bolts? The dealership put it on their part list.. But, do I need them? Why do they replace them?
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Part list:

Flywheel - 22100-RTW-005 - $315.24

Bushing (19x24x8) - 22103-RNA-004 - $14.74

Disk, Friction - 22200-RTW-005 - $133.42

Disk, Pressure - 22300-RTW-005 - $260.52

Bearing, Clutch Release (Nsk) - 22810-PLW-005 - $54.72
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Anything else I should get? The bolt numbers are as follows:

Bolt, Flange (10x40) - Flywheel - 95801-10040-08

Bolt, Twelve Point (Pressure plate) - 90034-689-000

Not sure how many of each of these I would need. If I even need to replace them.

Also there are 2 throw out bearings available. Nsk and Fujikoshi. Any difference? They are the same price.

Any special tools I will need?

Thanks all!!
 

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I've never replaced a flywheel without inspecting it first. This may be different because I think we have a dual-mass flywheel in the Z... I'm not sure about the longevity on them or if you can get them resurfaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Probably just best to replace it. 180k miles, it's most likely seen some wear.

I'm wondering if there is anything else in there I should replace at the same time?
 

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I've never replaced a flywheel without inspecting it first. This may be different because I think we have a dual-mass flywheel in the Z... I'm not sure about the longevity on them or if you can get them resurfaced.
I dont know if anyone does them, but it can be resurfaced, I have done it before
 

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I would strongly recommend help but if you are gonna do it yourself the tools you will need beyond basic are ball joint remover, breaker bar, impact drill, transmission jack or the ability to think outside the box and a large socket set
Doing it myself hasn't been hard really just very time consuming and get stuck needing more tools
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fediej: yes, and yes. But, that's how it always goes your first time around right? I've done plenty on cars before though, so hopefully won't scare myself outta it!

Jd: thanks for the tips! 12point socket set needed right? I think that might be the only thing I need to pick up.

Anyone have suggestions on additional seals or stuff to replace while I'm in there? Axle seals easy enough? Or maybe just leave it alone?

I probably won't resurface the flywheel, even though I'm sure I could. Gonna go all new. Hoping to get another 180k. Haha.

Thanks all!
 

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Probably just best to replace it. 180k miles, it's most likely seen some wear.

I'm wondering if there is anything else in there I should replace at the same time?
Fair point.

I'd strongly suggest a thorough inspection of all of your steering and suspension components while you're in there. It'd be a good time to inspect your CV axles too.

As far as replacing parts on general principles... ball joints, tie rod ends, and shocks/springs come to mind with 180k miles if you haven't done these parts already
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Probably just best to replace it. 180k miles, it's most likely seen some wear.

I'm wondering if there is anything else in there I should replace at the same time?
Fair point.

I'd strongly suggest a thorough inspection of all of your steering and suspension components while you're in there. It'd be a good time to inspect your CV axles too.

As far as replacing parts on general principles... ball joints, tie rod ends, and shocks/springs come to mind with 180k miles if you haven't done these parts already
Those are good to go. :)

I was thinking more like the parts I wouldn't normally be able to get to easily and while I'm in here, do them too. Stuff like axle seals,. Possibly sway bar bushings, etc.

New ball joints might be a good idea, but that would mean replacing the entire control arm.
 

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Just be careful of that line between "might as well replace with new because it's already taken apart" and searching for problems that aren't really there just because you're at a certain mileage.
And for my curiosity, are you replacing with new OEM(or similar) or taking this opportunity to swap in performance enhancing parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just be careful of that line between "might as well replace with new because it's already taken apart" and searching for problems that aren't really there just because you're at a certain mileage.
And for my curiosity, are you replacing with new OEM(or similar) or taking this opportunity to swap in performance enhancing parts?
Yeah, true that. I just know that on some cars you can do things such as rear main seal, etc... but on this car you cant. Just seeing what else might be a good idea to do at the same time.

Thanks for the suggestions!! I'll def need to check out the engine / trans mounts as well.

I am going to use OEM parts. I have heard that the SPEC performance kits arent very good, and plus, I'm stock engine anyways. So no need :)
 

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Didn't see it mentioned anywhere but a clutch alignment tool helps for when its time to get the transmission back on. Aftermarket clutches often come with them but OEM does not. Its usually a plastic tool that just mimics the input shaft and is used when you tighten down the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel (then removed, only used for that). It helps get the input shaft in the friction disc when putting the transmission on the dowel pins for reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Didn't see it mentioned anywhere but a clutch alignment tool helps for when its time to get the transmission back on. Aftermarket clutches often come with them but OEM does not. Its usually a plastic tool that just mimics the input shaft and is used when you tighten down the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel (then removed, only used for that). It helps get the input shaft in the friction disc when putting the transmission on the dowel pins for reassembly.

True that!

I was actually just thinking this today. I have one from a subaru clutch kit. Would it work? Or are they different? Do I need a honda one?

Was just thinking this today since the OEM clutch does not come with one. Guess I could probably grab one online for cheap?
 

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True that!

I was actually just thinking this today. I have one from a subaru clutch kit. Would it work? Or are they different? Do I need a honda one?

Was just thinking this today since the OEM clutch does not come with one. Guess I could probably grab one online for cheap?
That I don't know (whether subaru's would work), trying to locate the specs/dimensions and spline count that the L-series input shaft has because as per your last question yes it would be pretty easy to get a hold of one online. Any of the aftermarket CR-Z clutch makers would also likely be able to provide them, I'll be needing one eventually as well so I'll keep looking tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That I don't know (whether subaru's would work), trying to locate the specs/dimensions and spline count that the L-series input shaft has because as per your last question yes it would be pretty easy to get a hold of one online. Any of the aftermarket CR-Z clutch makers would also likely be able to provide them, I'll be needing one eventually as well so I'll keep looking tomorrow.
Sounds good. I see some of the civic stuff is 10 spline, but, I'm not sure if this is the same as our engine. I will need to look around more.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I was looking into this again, and for those who have done this.. what did you use to hold the engine / trans in place after removing the engine and transmission mounts?

The factory service manual called for an 'engine support hanger'. Special part #AAR-T1256



This can be bought for like $400, but, I see other cheap versions, just not sure if they would work? This one appears to level the load using 3 bars, whereas the cheap ones only go on the fenders.

Here is the one they recommend (A & Reds 'The Ultimate Engine Hanger':

Tools | A & Reds

However, here are cheap ones:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

What have you all used?

I don't really want to buy a $400 tool, but, I also don't want to crush myself with the engine if I decide to do this. And don't want to make it a bitch to put everything back together.

This already looks hard enough as-is. Anyone with a garage wanna help me? (haha).
 

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Is this a tool you can rent or borrow from an auto parts supplier?
So I was looking into this again, and for those who have done this.. what did you use to hold the engine / trans in place after removing the engine and transmission mounts?

The factory service manual called for an 'engine support hanger'. Special part #AAR-T1256



This can be bought for like $400, but, I see other cheap versions, just not sure if they would work? This one appears to level the load using 3 bars, whereas the cheap ones only go on the fenders.

Here is the one they recommend (A & Reds 'The Ultimate Engine Hanger':

Tools | A & Reds

However, here are cheap ones:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

What have you all used?

I don't really want to buy a $400 tool, but, I also don't want to crush myself with the engine if I decide to do this. And don't want to make it a bitch to put everything back together.

This already looks hard enough as-is. Anyone with a garage wanna help me? (haha).
 
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