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Hey guys, has anyone ever replaced the master cylinder in our car to get rid of the clutch delay valve in it? I know a lot of the newer Honda's have this, and I personally hate having it. I replaced it in my AP2 S2000 a few years back, but then again that one was very easy to do and had direct bolt in.

So first off, is there a master cylinder we can use from another car that does not have the delay valve in it? A direct fit that is.

How easy would it be to replace it? I personally have not looked into seeing how easy/hard it would be to do on the CR-Z.

My friend was able to replace his in his 2nd gen fit. I was able to drive it this weekend and it feels much better without the delay, assuming you drive a manual well.
 

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If it works for the GE Fit, It'll probably work for the CRZ. What did he replace it with? I'd probably be interested in doing this as well.
 

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What exactly is a clutch delay valve? I apologize if that is a very silly question BUT it is a question i have.
 

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A clutch delay valve is an addition to the clutch system of an automobile to standardize clutch engagement speed. Its purpose is to engage the drive train of an automobile without introducing shock to the drive train components by engaging too quickly.
 

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So i don't understand why would you want to get rid of that wont there be a lot more stress on the transmission? Would you be replacing it with a better one?
 

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That's a good write up, but there are a few things that need addressing before people here get their hopes up.

First off, that link is for a GD, the GE chassis Fit (newer) has the Clutch Delay Valve built into the Clutch Master Cylinder. The CR-Z is most likely the same as the GE, with the CDV built into the hardline port of the CMC which not a removable part, however some people have reported drilling out the reduction in the port eliminating the delay valve.

Second point is minor but you would not want to replace a hardline with a stainless steel line like that person did. You want as much hardline as possible up to the point where a flexible hose is needed.

Here's some discussion about the clutch delay valves in the newer Hondas, they're built into the clutch master cylinder: 2009 Fit (ge8) Clutch Delay Valve - HondaSwap Forums Looks like one of the members there is also a member here. I would personally steer clear of Omni Power for a CMC though.

This member found a clutch master cylinder from an earlier Honda that bolts right up to the GE8 and doesn't have a CDV: ge8 cdv.... gone - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums

If an OEM CMC from another Honda worked that would be the best option. If Omni Power winds up being the only company making a replacement without a CDV, then I can live with the CDV.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If it works for the GE Fit, It'll probably work for the CRZ. What did he replace it with? I'd probably be interested in doing this as well.
My friend with his fit replaced it with a 98 civic. It was put into the AP2 to kind of prevent people from doing burn outs or dumping the clutch, but it is more commonly put in to help people drive a manual better / smoother. I personally have never liked it on cars I have driven with it.
 

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I just finished this last night and it should fix the issue. It basically bypasses the damping mechanism in the CMC. The two holes to the intermediate chamber are TIG welded shut and I drill out a bypass to the cylinder. I wanted to delete the "CDV" this way to keep the OEM hardlines, have stock pedal travel and have a nice OEM plug & play install. I also bead blasted it after I was done. I'll try to install tomorrow and see how much it improves my shifting.

I can do more of them...


Stock CMC with weld area sanded down.


Welded. Not bad for my first one.


Drilled through to the cylinder.


Bead blasted.


Closer up.


Partly assembled. The cover plate is also bead blasted.
 

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Ok, I installed it today and took it for a test spin. It works. I can shift more aggressively and I get much less slippage. When it does slip, it stops pretty quickly on it's own and I don't have to lift on the throttle to stop the slipping like I did before. It's definitely an improvement!

It can be installed with basic tools, but the CMC is in a tight spot behind the strut tower, so it's a little awkward to work on. If you have the stock airbox or a short ram intake, you might have to remove it to get to the CMC. You might be able to get at it without removing anything if you have a cold air intake or a JRSC kit like I do, though. All that is needed to remove it is a 17mm open end wrench, a short 10mm open wrench, a long 10mm open wrench, a 12mm socket, pliers and have some rags to catch any fluid spillage. For bleeding, an 8mm box wrench, a clear tube and a container is needed.

I have my old CMC to play with now, so I'm going to perform the bypass conversion on that one as well...
 

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I think I may have been the first one to "remove" the CDV in the GE8 honda fit. There's a thread on the fit freak forum about it. I used an omnipower clutch master cylinder.

I'm going to be installing this in my cr-z once I get around to it:
Hybrid Racing 8th Gen Civic Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade | 8THCMC | Free Shipping | K Series Parts

Edit:
I happen to have two Fit GE8 CMCs right now. One is brand new, never used, the other has about 10k miles on it.
Do we know if that will work for the CRZ? Hybrid racing is literally 5 minutes away from me.
 

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I think I may have been the first one to "remove" the CDV in the GE8 honda fit. There's a thread on the fit freak forum about it. I used an omnipower clutch master cylinder.

I'm going to be installing this in my cr-z once I get around to it:
Hybrid Racing 8th Gen Civic Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade | 8THCMC | Free Shipping | K Series Parts
Both of those CMCs require replacing the OEM hardlines with a flexible line though, which I personally would rather not do. That civic one has the exact same bore as the CR-Z CMC, which is 5/8", so I don't see any reason to pick that one over a modified OEM CMC. Yes, it will have the same travel and delete the "CDV", but it still requires replacing some of the hardlines with flexible lines. How the clutch line port angles right toward the firewall like that is kind of suspect for good fitment as well. I can modify the OEM CMC for half the price of either those CMCs and it fits everything perfectly...

Is there any reason you aren't doing the Omnipower one again? The only thing I'm curious about is the reduced pedal travel.
 
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