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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the last few days, I am noticing while reversing out my driveway I am getting loud bangs and jolts through the steering wheel. I've looked around the car. Both front springs look good, the strut mounts seem solid and there is no play anywhere around the front suspension. Tracking has also been done recently. The engine mounts seem solid as well.

I asked my dad to watch as I reversed out and he said the wheels are actually "bouncing" or "skipping" as I'm on full lock. I don't hear it or get this issue while driving forward. If I mark the wheels, go into a car park and reverse with full lock, the skipping happens at the same point every time. Both left and right.

I asked a friend and he seems to think it's the effects of the large steering lock. But I'm pretty sure there is a problem I'm overlooking...

Any help would be appreciated!
 

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The internet will tell you it's 15 different things that are terminal but the lame answer is generally cars don't like being at full-full lock and it just happens, I usually take it to the stops and back off a degree.

I would say if you didn't in your other checks to give the CV shafts a good jiggle too, if they're damaged and binding it can do that.
 

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In general it is not a good Idea to go to full lock and you should avoid that. My question would be has it always done that in the same situation or is this the first time you noticed it or been in that situation? Are the weather conditions very different now than the last time you did that? Very cold weather can cause things to act very different. I generally look for changes in behavior not something it may have always done. Also known as it Works As Designed. Why did you need to go to full lock on the steering? That puts a lot of extra stress on the all the steering and suspension parts. I agree with Doomsday_Report.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In general it is not a good Idea to go to full lock and you should avoid that. My question would be has it always done that in the same situation or is this the first time you noticed it or been in that situation? Are the weather conditions very different now than the last time you did that? Very cold weather can cause things to act very different. I generally look for changes in behavior not something it may have always done. Also known as it Works As Designed. Why did you need to go to full lock on the steering? That puts a lot of extra stress on the all the steering and suspension parts. I agree with Doomsday_Report.
It never did it when I first purchased the car. I need to go full lock otherwise my front wheels will end up going down a high part of the kerb. I do it every day. I only started noticing it a few weeks ago. The only difference could be the air temperature. It is significantly less than a few weeks ago. I have tried different tyre pressures. I keep it 34 all around as that seems best for me on the roads I drive. Any harder and the ride is harsh and any softer i find I get a significant reduction in mpg.
 

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I also run 34 PSI in all my tires and whenever I park in a driveway I always back in for safety. I also heard long ago from a mechanic that backing a car up when it is cold it causes more wear on the transmission. If you do that, will that lessen the steering angle needed to park and to exit? As for the issue I have not heard of this before but you might want to have a mechanic look at it since it is a change.

Good luck.
 

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Lol don't you love when you post a question and people give answers like those 😂

I would be suspicious of the tie rod ends, steering rack bushings, or ball joints. That should narrow it down for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Before I start looking at cv joints. Where can I buy one if that is the case? I've googled around but I can't find any UK stock. I don't want to buy used. I don't mind if it comes from another car. As long as its new.
 

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Probably just CR-Z. Being a CVT, mayyyybbeeee the 8th and 9th gen Civic Hybrid miiiggghhhttt share half shafts.

I would take a low mileage used factory half shaft over the junk that comes out of the low budget parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Probably just CR-Z. Being a CVT, mayyyybbeeee the 8th and 9th gen Civic Hybrid miiiggghhhttt share half shafts.

I would take a low mileage used factory half shaft over the junk that comes out of the low budget parts stores.
Sorry I forgot to mention. I have a manual gearbox.

I can't even find low cost new half shafts. I can't find much. All my parts came from Cox motor parts UK and they don't have much in store for the crz...
 

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Before presuming etc, how about take it to a shop and have it looked at? I made the suggestions I made to lessen accelerated wear and increase safety, and avoid hitting the hard lock, Why is that wrong? Why is there a presumption it is not a temperature related issue or that it is definitely a problem?

Hence my suggestion to take it to a shop and have a professional take a look at it and determine if it is "broken" or working as designed with a change in behavior due to the change in weather conditions.

There are many postings here with other members having a very hard time getting replacement half shafts from any source new(even Honda) or used and no one has suggested another vehicle that the parts fit from.
 

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Yeah not finding any 6MT half shafts at the usual suspects in the US. Might be a wrecking yard or Honda kind of deal.

Certainly verify that is your issue before tossing rather expensive parts at it. Honda does sell just the joint if you feel like rebuilding what you have. Cuts the price in half.
 

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If you do not know for sure why even make the suggestion (and as you stated we do not know what the actual issue is if any)? He never said CVT. He is in the UK MTs are more common there but even members there have stated many times half shafts are just not available. One side is less available than the other if i remember correctly. There is all kinds of speculations I could make but as they are not helpful to this member I am making only suggestions that might help in the short term or long term.

Probably just CR-Z. Being a CVT, mayyyybbeeee the 8th and 9th gen Civic Hybrid miiiggghhhttt share half shafts.

I would take a low mileage used factory half shaft over the junk that comes out of the low budget parts stores.
 

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Presuming and looking under a car are free. Taking it to a shop is not free. What is the point of a message board like this except to ask for help and receive it?
 

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Full lock takes the most force from the power steering but it does not particularly load the rest of the suspension unless you're doing it at high speed in which case it's simply proportional to the rest of the forces on the suspension. In spite of other commentary here, wheel hop at full lock IS NOT normal. The wheels should spin just fine regardless of the steering angle.

Hopping and jerking at full lock certainly points toward a bad CV axle. The other things that come to mind is bent parts that were aligned... they line up when going straight but they don't articulate the way they should so the tires don't point correctly when steering other than straight (obviously proportional to the amount of steering).



Forums like this are here to help out other uses but there are limits as to what help can be given... I can't put someone's car on a lift and shake it down or spin the tires in the air through the internet. I also can't give someone the experience to feel the difference between tolerance, play, and slop. Very often people get upset that we can't solve issues that can't be solved remotely. Sometimes things get to the point where it takes hands on to progress. Experienced hands. Free advice is worth every penny but sometimes paid assessments get the job done.
 

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An easy way to eliminate the temperature question is try again after driving a bit, head out to a quiet parking lot (a 10-15 minute drive should be more than enough for things to warm up) and try backing in and out of parking spaces at full lock, see if it's the same, better or worse.

In my experience CVs tend to bind a little at extreme angles, every car I've driven has had a little resistance to moving when at maximum lock, this was reinforced by all the advice I got saying to not do that and the problem went away after a slight adjustment, given the problem seems to have come with the lower winter temperatures I'm maintaining that these things are likely related, the 19 other forums google supplies agree that this problem is pretty common and low temps will make it worse.

Slightly OT I'd be interested to see if there's a better solution to our CV supply issues, given the unobtanium nature of the OE parts maybe measuring up a spare and taking that to a decent shop (maybe even throw it at a college if you're feeling brave) to have them make a "custom" part? Probably still stupid expensive but at least it'd be an option.
 

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I would also take it to a shop to be sure, since CV axles are expensive for this car. Not the most desirable answer, I know.

Are the CV axles the same for RHD and LHD CR-Zs? If so, then you have three option as someone in Europe (I have been looking everywhere for axles for when I need these):
  1. Used: some UK junkyard should have one I think or Otomoto.pl is also an option, which is a Polish website with used car parts (often good prices).
  2. APV Carparts: these are made/sold in Germany and cost €450 per side.
  3. Wholesale Parts Express: this shop sells axles from Protech CV as far as I know and these cost $200 per side (without shipping and import fees).

I would try to find a low mileage used one personally.
 

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The Driveshaft Shop will make you a set of custom half shafts for the price of a single OEM half shaft.

I had them make me some custom half shafts for a K swapped Insight.

I sold off my CR-Z shafts so I can't take any measurements but I suspect they are probably close enough to something off a Civic to interchange. The outers are 26 spline and the inner is 25 spline like most Civics. The wrench in the works is the intermediate shaft. That was mostly found on the SI and those had bigger 27 spline inners. The front track width is more or less the same a Civic making the lengths about the same.
 

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A failing CV would have a "click click click" noise when accelerating and turning. A skipping wheel like this, in reverse, at full lock and slow speeds is indicative of a suspension issue IMO. Especially because it's both sides, not just one. I've experienced the same thing with lowered and modified cars but not stock ones.
 
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