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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well you might break other stuff we don't know about yet.
As I said the risk is 100% yours. This is not a Honda approved mod!
Their might well be electrical gremlins or gotchas that have yet to appear.

However I have driven mine around for a few days ~ 50 miles or so and it hasn't broken yet.

You can try it without a grid charge but it might give other errors immediately and not work if the IMA battery is flat/out of balance.
 

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Well you might break other stuff we don't know about yet.
As I said the risk is 100% yours. This is not a Honda approved mod!

However I have driven mine around for a few days ~ 50 miles or so and it hasn't broken yet.

You can try it without a grid charge but it might give other errors immediately and not work if the IMA battery is flat/out of balance.
:( amm yeah I understand the risk as long as it just don't blast on my face, lol. it was my daily driven car so risk is a bit too big for me, but im stuck with a dead car for more then a month anyway So want to test this theory too as mine is a JDM and yours is a UK variant (i dont have push start in mine). if it works on this too then we will be sure that this mod works on both variants (partially with errors atleast).

Now that you made me doubt my decision, before I do this, do you have any idea if there are any other difference in 2010 and 2013 versions apart from IMA? in case I burn down any other potential part i want to be prepare if i can replace it with older versions :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
There are lots of differences between the 2010 and 2013.
I can't possibly detail or know them all.

However like all pioneers we never learn anything if we don't experiment or explore.
If it was me I would try it and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
There may also be hidden message/electrical differences between the JDM / UK CR-Z variants and the pack you are using that are significant..
Fingers crossed.. What did the Nimh pack come out of?

When you first turn on/start the car after the Nimh pack install it should start from the IMA but the battery bars will show empty.
It will go into forced tickover regen charge mode for a few minutes in order to re-calibrate normally.

Let it do that and the charge should stop after a few minutes and the battery gauge will then rise to 7 or 8 bars.

Of course the IMA light will come on after a few seconds.

If the IMA does not work in normal driving after it has re-calibrated then you will have to investigate the faults as normal with the HDS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'm going to suggest you wait a bit.

I have a strange issue at the moment and my HDS can't communicate with the car and the DC-DC is acting weirdly.
This was not happening in the first couple of days or drives but is now.
I need to do some more testing but am unfortunately very busy....
I don't want you to damage anything either.
 

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I'm going to suggest you wait a bit.

I have a strange issue at the moment and my HDS can't communicate with the car and the DC-DC is acting weirdly.
This was not happening in the first couple of days or drives but is now.
I need to do some more testing but am unfortunately very busy....
I don't want you to damage anything either.
Oh, i have already installed the pack couple of hours ago. everything works like you said. Car start off the IMA, went into regen until one bar and stopped,
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took it for a drive for couple of KMs and battery gradually charged to full in couple of minutes driving.
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Front 12v battery also charging fine
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Tested all the modes and every thing was working fine apparently, Except the IMA light,

I connected the HDS and except for one DTS everything seems fine apparently.. attaching the HDS results here, didn't knew if engine was suppose to be on for HDS or not so took data for both. Please advice me what to do next.

P.S: I changed the extension of the files to .pdf from .xps. let me know if it does not open
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Oh well, Glad it is in and working. :cool: Fingers crossed.

Post a pic of what you did in the back with the phase wires etc?

If you don't need to get rid of the IMA light for any sort of official testing I suggest just ignore it for now.

I would not do anything more, just use it and report back later while I do more testing as well.
 

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Oh well, Glad it is in and working. :cool: Fingers crossed.

Post a pic of what you did in the back with the phase wires etc?

If you don't need to get rid of the IMA light for any sort of official testing I suggest just ignore it for now.

I would not do anything more, just use it and report back later while I do more testing as well.
I just got some spare battery wires from junk yard and Extend the U and V Phase wires with a clip and nut. Rest is just in its original state.
 

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If you don't need to get rid of the IMA light for any sort of official testing I suggest just ignore it for now.
I don't mind the IMA error as long as it is not fatal or destroy something else. its a temporary setup after all, i will definitely drive like this for few days to see if anything else breaks. I tried to search for the DTC but nothing comes up on the internet. except your own other article which i understand little
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Any idea about that, Can I keep driving with this error? and can I put load on the battery like turn AC and Entertainment system on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just drive it normally and see what happens.

To help me please use HDS and go into PGMFI and check/print the DTC there.
Also go into body electrical and then gauges and check/print the DTC there.

Thanks
 

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Just drive it normally and see what happens.

To help me please use HDS and go into PGMFI and check/print the DTC there.
Also go into body electrical and then gauges and check/print the DTC there.

Thanks
Here it is, So same errors in both as your other thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Some rambling about the weird DC-DC status issue I am having.

Note. The DC-DC is operating normally.

It is not a faulty DC-DC (I swapped it out)
It is not the control signal from the MCM > DC-DC as I disconnected that temporarily so the DC-DC defaults to always on.
The DC -DC reports it's status over another line but the red ign light was still flashing even though it was always on.

It's likely a weird CAN message issue..
Anyway if i can't sort it in next couple of days I have to revert to Lithium for a holiday.

 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Of course my flickering ignition light issue might also be because the pack I am testing is unknown and from a junkyard car. :rolleyes: I have swapped the MCM and DC-DC and the issue remains.
 

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Some rambling about the weird DC-DC status issue I am having.

Note. The DC-DC is operating normally.

It is not a faulty DC-DC (I swapped it out)
It is not the control signal from the MCM > DC-DC as I disconnected that temporarily so the DC-DC defaults to always on.
The DC -DC reports it's status over another line but the red ign light was still flashing even though it was always on.

It's likely a weird CAN message issue..
Anyway if i can't sort it in next couple of days I have to revert to Lithium for a holiday.

Hey Peter, No I dont get this flashing battery light in my setup, I tested the car yesterday on high speed in sports mode to test if there is any difference in power. there was a tiny bit of difference but nothing noticeable for normal driving. I then drove the car today to my office for around 9~10 miles and I didn't see any flashing Battery sign.

The only irritating thing that made me afraid apart from IMA light was couple of weird sounds coming from somewhere in the battery pack that I have never heard before. I was able to pinpoint one of it, It was a high pitch whistle sound when I Deaccelerate or press brake and the bar goes into charging, the more deep bar goes into charging, the more loud and high pitch the sound is. (I suspect its coming from the fan but not sure)

Other weird sound is something like a magnetic electrical sparking sound or something like a fast clanking sound when a mettalic bolt moves very fast inside a metal container. its hard to explain and Comes in pretty loud for a sec and its not continuous and I cant reproduce it on will. I will drive for couple more times and see If i can reproduce it on will, if not then I will disassemble the battery pack to see if there is any rogue metal piece or bolt in there that is causing the sound.

Other then that, the car drives pretty well. i ll keep an eye for this battery flickering sign too now and will report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Noise 1.
The high pitched noise will probably be normal operating noises from the inverter and DC-DC.
They are switched at a high frequency ~18khz IIRC and that's at the very upper limit of our hearing.
The more power flowing the louder the sound. Dogs would probably hate it in the back!
Normally in the back it's all covered in and has carpet over it to deaden any sounds.
It should be easy to tell the difference between that and the fan.

Noise 2.
If there was any sort of real sparking going on you would have found out by now! :eek:
The magic smoke would have been released and it would have faulted.....
Are you def sure that is coming from the IMA area?

Some thoughts on battery light flickering.
The fact we have been unable to do the motor rotor position calibration so far may be the cause.
If you get lucky and your donor Nimh MCM & Lithium motor combo is within tolerances then maybe you don't get this glitch.
But if you aren't then maybe this is the inverter or MCM responding to the misalignment by toggling something on off.

I'm going to tweak a few more things and investigate the HDS issue over the next few days.

The car drives normally without any IMA or CEL lights using my OBDIIC&C gadget on the FCAN.
I just get the occasional bong from the MID warning about the 12V battery and erratic flickering ign light.
 

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Noise 1.
The high pitched noise will probably be normal operating noises from the inverter and DC-DC.
They are switched at a high frequency ~18khz IIRC and that's at the very upper limit of our hearing.
The more power flowing the louder the sound. Dogs would probably hate it in the back!
Normally in the back it's all covered in and has carpet over it to deaden any sounds.
It should be easy to tell the difference between that and the fan.
Yes that makes sense, I agree its probably muffled by the carpet thats why never heard it earlier.

Noise 2.
If there was any sort of real sparking going on you would have found out by now! :eek:
The magic smoke would have been released and it would have faulted.....
Are you def sure that is coming from the IMA area?
SO For this I think I Know where this sound is coming from, its most probably coming from these two relays.
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I just sat in my car and turn the engine on and immediately this clicking noise started and it was not stopping like in earlier instances. i know these relays clicks one time when we turn the ignition On/Off but it was clicking again and again very fast randomly and it was not stoping. I immediately turned the engine off and went back to see where its coming from, asked wife to turn the engine On while I film it but it didn't click in the next start. I then drove back to home and only once it started the clicking again while driving and immediately went to normal again. Does that behavior make sense to you? @PeterPerkins
 
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