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my theory is that the engines are run for hours at the factory so they are "broken-in" already and are ready to go from the gate... that is all referring to the engine of course... the brakes/clutch (6MT)/tires all have a separate break-in period...

so for me no hard breaking for at least 300 miles... no fast turning for 100 miles... and no hard shifting/clutch release for at least the 1,000 mile mark...

this does not mean i won't rev the heck out of it, in fact i'm gonna do just that... a lot of holding the revs at mid-high rpms and even some limiter hits...


i think this is the best way b/c it worked perfectly on my Si... results ended up being a more responsive and power generating engine and better fuel economy... i averaged 27mpg combined with really hard driving...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
my theory is that the engines are run for hours at the factory so they are "broken-in" already and are ready to go from the gate... that is all referring to the engine of course... the brakes/clutch (6MT)/tires all have a separate break-in period...

so for me no hard breaking for at least 300 miles... no fast turning for 100 miles... and no hard shifting/clutch release for at least the 1,000 mile mark...

this does not mean i won't rev the heck out of it, in fact i'm gonna do just that... a lot of holding the revs at mid-high rpms and even some limiter hits...


i think this is the best way b/c it worked perfectly on my Si... results ended up being a more responsive and power generating engine and better fuel economy... i averaged 27mpg combined with really hard driving...
Are you saying that you cant get to that same performance point without doing the mid rpm to limiter process? And this is done while just sitting in the driveway? Do you let the rpms bounce at the limiter or hit it and drop the rpms and repeat? should this be done emediately or just durring the beginning?
 

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I'm glad you asked this question. My Honda dealer is checking on what the official break-in period/conditions are for the Z. I'll be stopping in tomorrow to get the car washed and will see if they have any info yet.
 

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Are you saying that you cant get to that same performance point without doing the mid rpm to limiter process? And this is done while just sitting in the driveway? Do you let the rpms bounce at the limiter or hit it and drop the rpms and repeat? should this be done emediately or just durring the beginning?
not sure i get the first question...

this is done ONLY when driving... there should be a load on the engine when it's revving and you only get "load" when ur driving and in gear... i won't do it all the time but i will let the rpms, lets say in 2nd gear, go all the way to the limiter and let them fall back down a bit then shift to 3rd, 4th etc... i will do that a few times... i also broke-in my Si with the A/C on the entire time lol... i'm not saying this method is guaranteed to work but it did for me on my Si and i was happy with the results... the one thing i did wrong on my Si was not allowing for break-in of the clutch and that led to premature wear and failure of the CMC (clutch master cylinder)...

everyone that rode in my car or saw me race it said i had a "freak" motor... but i think it was b/c of the way i broke it in after i bought it... i also want to point out that everyone who babied or drove theirs like a granny literally produced the weakest engines and lacked a ton of performance... and their fuel economy wasn't any better and in some cases worse than mine...

i also changed my oil after 3,000 miles and dyno'd that same day putting down 190hp/139tq on the first run and just by removing the air filter i got it up to 199hp/146tq on my 3rd run... that's the highest any stock Si has dyno'd to my knowledge... most ppl got in the 185hp/131tq range... mine was dyno'd 3 separate times and NEVER got under 190hp...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well then you can guess how im breakin mine in. So i basically can rev out 2nd and cruz the gears after that, then repeat a bunch of times? And would i do this in sport mode only or normal also?
 

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lol... that's a good question... i'd do it mainly in Sport mode... you can rev out 1st but that gear is done pretty quick that's why i say 2nd... and on the highway you can even rev out 3rd... just be sure not to dump the clutch or too many fast shifts as the clutch needs to be worn in similar to the brakes...

as for me i'm going to do what i suggested but i'll try it in all gears and modes... personally my thoughts are if the car is gonna break why not do it while it still has warranty :D and i also feel that the cars are released with a ton of safety preventing the owner from doing and serious damage to it ie: revving only to 6300rpms vs revving to 7k which i think the engine would be able to handle easily...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
when i swapped in a DOHC ZC into my crx i could burry the needle in the red all day long with no problems or worries..... i love hondas. when it came to my vw gti i would worry after 5k rpms.
 

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So, about the clutch, since this is my first brand new car, is normal shifting better (i.e. no rev matching)? I rev match alot, as it makes the transitions smoother (on most cars, though with the Z its hard to match it right unless you're in sport lol), and on cars that are broken in, it makes the clutch last longer, as its less aggressive. I haven't been babying my car, but I haven't been very aggressive with it.
 

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rev matching is fine if you can do it... but like you said, unless you're in Sport, rev matching is pretty hard to do b/c of the response or lack there of, from the throttle in any other mode... i was rev matching yesterday on my test drive and i noticed a huge difference in the throttle response in the various modes...

i just post my results from MY personal experience... when i see a post about break-in blah blah i feel the need to post b/c so many people out there are scared to drive the car in the beginning... i was too, my first 80mile on my Si didn't see even 4k rpms... but after i learned something about my other friend with an Si and another with an S2K, i beat the crap outta mine everyday after that haha... and she begged for more...
 

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lol i had a video on youtube of my bouncing my limiter on my Si for 10 and 20 seconds... i took it down b/c it had a bunch of negative comments and i didn't feel like explaining to everyone haha... but Honda engines can handle tons of abuse and i proved that time and time again...
Absolutely correct. I increased my TSX rev limiter from 7300rpm to 7600rpm. No problem at all and was still pulling strong. And I redline it a lot.
 

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nice but i honestly feel that K-series engine were designed to be abused more than other Honda engine... i know they all can handle it but K's take it better haha... the Hondata Reflash came with a limiter for the Si and it raised it from 8300 to 8600... and i've seen Turbo'd Si's with stock parts rev to 9000... and at that point the first thing to fail is the oil pump which is recommended to be upgraded first for higher revving...

can anyone chime in on the L15 engine (LEA1 on the CR-Z)... i'd like to know the limits of this engine ie: what parts need to be upgraded in order to rev higher, etc... i'm a huge fan of revving high so that will be goal #1 for me and hopefully someone comes out with full tuning for the car so i can add a more performance oriented cam and still tune if for fuel efficiency...
 

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I'm not an expert but this is how I do break ins. Take this for what you paid for it. :D

Engine
1. The owners manual as well as the dealer should explain how many miles are allowed for break in, as well as the maximum allowed revs.
2. Take the car for an extended drive, but do not use the cruise control. You do not want the car to be at a constant speed (and constant rpm) for a given period of time. Which may be difficult with a CVT.
3. Pick a highway with several speed limits. Vary your speed, and run some in each of the higher gears to keep your rev ranges varying. Nothing dramatic here, you can stay within +/- 5-10 mph of the speed limit (or whatever margin you feel comfortable with not attracting revenue collectors), just periodically vary your revs, gears, and speed.
4. There's no need to wring it out, but you can put your foot into it once in awhile as long as you adhere to the recommended rev limit. The dealer should have told you whether or not you can only drive partial throttle during break in. If not, ask or read the fabulous manual.
5. Basically you just want to exercise the engine within it's recommended power band. I try to spend equal times at different revs as much as possible to balance the process. Leave a little margin near the recommended rev limit... it's ok to touch the limit, just don't lurk there too long.

Break in fail (don't do this): Buying a new car then driving it 20+ miles back home on the interstate at one set speed with the cruise control active and in the highest gear.

Tires
New tires may often have some residual mold release compound. They also will likely be slicked up with shiny tire dressing from the dealer. Put a few hundred miles on them before you play with cornering limits. Best to do that in an empty parking lot anyhow. Be very wary of brand new car tires in the wet.

Brakes
Ideally they should have been properly bedded in already, and unless you've changed the pads to a racing compound, you shouldn't need to bed them on a new car with street pads.
 

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I'm not an expert but this is how I do break ins. Take this for what you paid for it. :D

Engine
1. The owners manual as well as the dealer should explain how many miles are allowed for break in, as well as the maximum allowed revs.
2. Take the car for an extended drive, but do not use the cruise control. You do not want the car to be at a constant speed (and constant rpm) for a given period of time. Which may be difficult with a CVT.
3. Pick a highway with several speed limits. Vary your speed, and run some in each of the higher gears to keep your rev ranges varying. Nothing dramatic here, you can stay within +/- 5-10 mph of the speed limit (or whatever margin you feel comfortable with not attracting revenue collectors), just periodically vary your revs, gears, and speed.
4. There's no need to wring it out, but you can put your foot into it once in awhile as long as you adhere to the recommended rev limit. The dealer should have told you whether or not you can only drive partial throttle during break in. If not, ask or read the fabulous manual.
5. Basically you just want to exercise the engine within it's recommended power band. I try to spend equal times at different revs as much as possible to balance the process. Leave a little margin near the recommended rev limit... it's ok to touch the limit, just don't lurk there too long.

Break in fail (don't do this): Buying a new car then driving it 20+ miles back home on the interstate at one set speed with the cruise control active and in the highest gear.

Tires
New tires may often have some residual mold release compound. They also will likely be slicked up with shiny tire dressing from the dealer. Put a few hundred miles on them before you play with cornering limits. Best to do that in an empty parking lot anyhow. Be very wary of brand new car tires in the wet.

Brakes
Ideally they should have been properly bedded in already, and unless you've changed the pads to a racing compound, you shouldn't need to bed them on a new car with street pads.
this is the best way to do the break-in... the only part i disagree with is the rev limits... i wouldn't worry about hitting it a bunch of times... let's be real, what dealership knows more than enthusiasts?? and when i used to work at Honda, i had friends that worked there also buy cars like the Si and S2K and literally tear through the gears right out of the parking lot lol... and these were technicians...

other than that part, i think that's the best way to describe how to drive/break-in the car...
 

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this is the best way to do the break-in... the only part i disagree with is the rev limits... i wouldn't worry about hitting it a bunch of times...
The problem I see with hitting it a bunch of times is twofold:

1) Modern ODBII electronics can log your revs, the gear you were in, and the time spent there. In certain cases this can be used by the dealer against you in warranty claims. Some manufacturers are also concerned with standing starts and it's affect on the transmission. (I'm speaking with my Lotus cap on. If I had a GT-R cap, it would be on too. ;) )

2) The purpose of break in is to seat your piston rings. When done properly, the seated pistons will prevent what's known as "blow by" from compression gasses trying to escape to the crankcase. More problematic, if done improperly, too much oil may accumulate on the cylinders and get burned - this forms a film on the cylinder walls, aka glazing.

If you try to break in the engine at too cold of an operating temperature, the rings don't expand well enough, too much oil flows and glazes the cylinders. If this happens the break in process essentially stops. Not good.

If you try to break in the engine at too high of an operating temperature too early, you're forcing the oil past rings that aren't seated yet and glazing the cylinders from the high temps. As before, the process stops. Also not good.

Never change out the factory fill break in oil too soon for a synthetic oil. The synthetic oil is most cases is more slippery and more prone to cause glazing.

I'd recommend starting gentle and progressively get more aggressive. Driving intervals shouldn't be longer than 15-20 minutes during these cycles. Whatever you do, never lug the engine during this process.

Disclaimer: I'm not a engine tech but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night. :) Basically, just Google for break-in techniques and theory. El Goog should offer more detail.
 
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