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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody.
I'm a new CRZ owner, just got an early 2010 EU Sport.
Starting this thread to diagnose a problem with my Meter/Cluster/Gauge whatever they call it.
Problem: the info screen does not display average fuel consumption, external temp, and a few other screens. It shows the ECO level thing, range, settings menu AND a blank orange warning screen. No info. Also, the instant consumption bar graph does not display the units, and always displays one bar.

What I've attempted:
  • Disconnected and charged 12V battery. Nothing changed
  • Managed to get HDS working to pull codes. It's currently unreliable, locks up after the DTC Manager launches, but I managed to find 2 DTC's in the EPS and ABS modules.
These are both related to a low 12v voltage condition, but permanent. There are no EPS/ABS/VSA lights on the dash when engine is running.
  • Live data from the ABS unit showed an intermittent PCM COMM Fail/OK. GAUGE COMM is FAIL. I'm thinking/hoping the ABS and EPS modules are in some sort of failsafe because there's a DTC. Also, wheel speeds were static and stuck at 38/100+km/h. I'm guessing this is why the average consumption meters are not reporting, there's a vehicle speed plausibility issue.
  • I can't clear DTC's because my HDS install crashes, I'll be working on that.
  • Did not check all fuses, that's next on the list, I noticed this is a problem on other Hondas from this generation.

I'll be keeping a log of what I'm attempting here.
If anybody had any kind of similar problems, please chime in.
 

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Some CR-Zs in some markets what is displayed on the MID is different and some functions on them do not exist. For instance I am in US and have the maintenance minder. Other markets do not. We have found many of these little quirks between markets. Another example is some markets have no cruise control standard.

Fix the other issues first then look in the owners manual for your market and see if those functions are mentioned or if there is a note they are optional. May need a trip to a dealer or specialist.
 

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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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Could it be a faulty CANBUS wire or something? The orange screen pops up when there's a warning that requires your attention, such as "Check SRS system".
I'm no mechanic or anything, but it sounds like there is no communication between the cluster and whatever computers it talks to. Hope you can sort this out.

Automotive lighting Amber Font Material property Gas
 

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It could be a CAN bus communications error. The gauge cluster has a self test mode for that. You mileage may vary on a 2010, they were kind of odd.

1. Push and hold the SELECT/RESET knob.
2. Turn the combination light switch to ON.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
4. Within 2-5 seconds, turn the combination light switch to OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5. Within 5 seconds, release the SELECT/RESET knob, and then repeatedly push and release the knob three times.

The cluster will now go through the self diagnostics function and display F-CAN and B-CAN status in the MID. OK is good, ERROR is bad. To exit diag mode turn the ignition switch to off.

How is that for a Konami code?

If you have a more advanced scan tool you can use it to enter this diag mode without all the button presses.

Not related to the self test. If a module is missing from the CAN bus the cluster will display and error message for that system. For example the removal of the IMA system in engine swaps will create an IMA error message. Same is true for all the other modules on the bus. If they are missing the MID will display a general error for that missing module. ABS is a special case as that is also VSA and hill start assist. When the ABS module goes missing on the bus is causes three separate errors to be displayed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for your inputs.
I think i narrowed it down to
Font Number Screenshot Brand

Which means it's dead, Jim. Unless somebody wants to help out and pull the contents of the 93c76 EEPROM.... I guess If I had the binary I could easily replace the eeprom chip and reprogram it.

There's another guy asking for the same thing back in 2016 on mhhauto

There must have been more with this issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It could be a CAN bus communications error. The gauge cluster has a self test mode for that. You mileage may vary on a 2010, they were kind of odd.

1. Push and hold the SELECT/RESET knob.
2. Turn the combination light switch to ON.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
4. Within 2-5 seconds, turn the combination light switch to OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5. Within 5 seconds, release the SELECT/RESET knob, and then repeatedly push and release the knob three times.

The cluster will now go through the self diagnostics function and display F-CAN and B-CAN status in the MID. OK is good, ERROR is bad. To exit diag mode turn the ignition switch to off.

How is that for a Konami code?

If you have a more advanced scan tool you can use it to enter this diag mode without all the button presses.

Not related to the self test. If a module is missing from the CAN bus the cluster will display and error message for that system. For example the removal of the IMA system in engine swaps will create an IMA error message. Same is true for all the other modules on the bus. If they are missing the MID will display a general error for that missing module. ABS is a special case as that is also VSA and hill start assist. When the ABS module goes missing on the bus is causes three separate errors to be displayed.
I'll also try this and see what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You might be in luck. I have a cluster on my desk and the tools to dump it. Will check tonight.
Incrediburu! That would be incredibly appreciated.
No rush, I just got the car, still getting my bearings.
I don't have a writing setup yet lol, but it's generic, I always write my eeprom programmers on demand on some whatever mcu board i have laying around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you can program eeproms you can change the odometer....
I have no idea what's in that cluster. One eeprom? Multiple? What else does it store?
Mine seems to have forgotten the units for fuel consumption and it's "reverted" to a RHD configuration on the display(reversed doors in graphic).
Both trip computers + range estimate work. So it might not be the same eeprom.
Yeah, need to find the data addresses first, that can be doable. There's nothing illegal if you don't change the odometer...Also afaik the actual odometer is also in other modules.

Or maybe this is a problem caused by somebody doing just that before i bought it....
I'm going to buy a used cluster and start playing with it.
 

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Do your research and find out the legal process that needs to be followed to change a cluster or replace parts of it other wise you can have all kinds of problems up to and including losing the car to the government and it would be destroyed. Being you are not here I am not sure what the process would be there. here every state is different but there is paperwork you fill out that states the odometer is accurate or not and in some cases you can legally set the odometer on a replacement cluster to the same as the old one there is a process for that to get a brand new one here. There I have no Idea.

I have no idea what's in that cluster. One eeprom? Multiple? What else does it store?
Mine seems to have forgotten the units for fuel consumption and it's "reverted" to a RHD configuration on the display(reversed doors in graphic).
Both trip computers + range estimate work. So it might not be the same eeprom.
Yeah, need to find the data addresses first, that can be doable. There's nothing illegal if you don't change the odometer...Also afaik the actual odometer is also in other modules.

Or maybe this is a problem caused by somebody doing just that before i bought it....
I'm going to buy a used cluster and start playing with it.
 

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Eh I am not a lawyer so you do you.

Ethically speaking, changing the odometer of a used cluster to match the non functional cluster you are replacing would perfectly fine. And if you set it to the same there would be zero evidence.

But hey I am not a law expert so tamper at your own risk.

Odd that your cluster would display a different hand drive. Maybe someone else replaced the cluster with one from the wrong region. That would be interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It could be a CAN bus communications error. The gauge cluster has a self test mode for that. You mileage may vary on a 2010, they were kind of odd.

1. Push and hold the SELECT/RESET knob.
2. Turn the combination light switch to ON.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
4. Within 2-5 seconds, turn the combination light switch to OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5. Within 5 seconds, release the SELECT/RESET knob, and then repeatedly push and release the knob three times.

The cluster will now go through the self diagnostics function and display F-CAN and B-CAN status in the MID. OK is good, ERROR is bad. To exit diag mode turn the ignition switch to off.

How is that for a Konami code?

If you have a more advanced scan tool you can use it to enter this diag mode without all the button presses.

Not related to the self test. If a module is missing from the CAN bus the cluster will display and error message for that system. For example the removal of the IMA system in engine swaps will create an IMA error message. Same is true for all the other modules on the bus. If they are missing the MID will display a general error for that missing module. ABS is a special case as that is also VSA and hill start assist. When the ABS module goes missing on the bus is causes three separate errors to be displayed.
I did this, both CAN OK
All seems normal, but the rpm needle glitches hard just when starting the procedure, then does the normal sweep.
 

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Depends on your specific state law. It is still not legally exempt in states and places i have lived in and I have had to certify the Odometer reading every time I change states or certify it is not accurate which then causes issue when the car is sold in another state.

I have also been told that it can be detected even if set to the same numbers.

Also these cars are now getting to be 10+ years old and around here that makes the odometer exempt.
 

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Federally the 10 year rule applied. But as of January 1st 2021 the Feds changed the law to a 20 year period for vehicles MY 2011 and newer. Ain't that something.


However some states did not adopt that rule and still use the 10 year rule.


Aren't laws fun? So many of them it would be impossible to know if you are actively breaking a law in your day to day life.
 
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