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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys....
Sorry I haven't been on here for a while.... I have Long Covid last year and still have a few issues with life atm.

I have been working on the dent my CR-Z got given a couple of years ago over the rear wheel arch on the LH side looking from the front of the car.

I have pulled as much out as I can I think using PBR methods and now need you to use PBR bars from the back.

Any tips before I start to remove the inner wheel arch please would be helpful.

This photo was at the time of finding the damage btw....

Honda CR-Z Dent1.jpg
 

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That may work but just keep in mind that for rear quarter panel work even the best PDRers will often still drill a small hole in the wheel well for the rod tools. It generally gives better leverage and control compared to working from behind interior panels in addition to being easier to see the dent being worked. The CR-Z rear quarter is just huge and the hole gets sealed back up afterwards of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Guys, I am nearly down to the metal work on the interior... I am trying to find out how to remove the back seat.
I have searched on here but not found anything.
 

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Guys, I am nearly down to the metal work on the interior... I am trying to find out how to remove the back seat.
I have searched on here but not found anything.
you shouldn't need to remove the seat to get the trim out, just fold it down - that's how the trim is on the US cars with the cargo panels anyway. you may need to removethe seat bottom, which just pulls up (at least the lower cargo tray does anyway, ymmv)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks..
I can see the anchor points seem under the seat bottom. Seems like they are really fixed well and don't want to pull it to much as it feels like it would break to me.
I am looking though the service doc but maybe I need the Workshop manual for removal of interior trim?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ordered the KTC Tool kit it mentions... £13.88 its not worth struggling with is it as the trim around the drivers door looks like these tools will be required.
 

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Ordered the KTC Tool kit it mentions... £13.88 its not worth struggling with is it as the trim around the drivers door looks like these tools will be required.
don't look at it as "oh no, I had to buy 14pound of tools for this!" as "I'm paying a 14 pound convenience fee to get this done"

Those trim tools are some of the best money I've spent lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, 96firepheonix.

I do not mind at all spending some money on tools for it. Cheaper than getting replacement parts if you break them.... I think for what you get in that kit they are a bargain!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
An update of the dent and my findings removing the rear bumper.
Why didn't Honda paint it properly behind the bumper? I have now treated the rust and painted it. I still have further work to do in the dent. It will never be perfect as the metal was stretched so a small amount of filler and spraying will be required.

20210501_144949.jpg


20210501_145335.jpg


63936


63937
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All panels back on and interior trim (Bumper will come off again when I get spray paint and parts to repair the parking sensor). The tool kit is so useful as I needed it for the bumper removal and other things. Worth every penny!
I noticed the ducting and a fan in the boot... I take it this is to keep the battery cool...?

I noticed a while ago one of my rear light clusters was steaming up and water was getting inside it. I cleaned it and noticed the lens part had become unbonded from the black body at the bottom. I used industrial super glue's (medium and super thin) to bond it and seal it.
 

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I'd like to know how the super glue works for the rear tail light seal. Also, the fan and duct are exactly what you thought they were, for cooling the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'd like to know how the super glue works for the rear tail light seal. Also, the fan and duct are exactly what you thought they were, for cooling the battery.
Hi Eddie. Thanks. I used these glues. They offer different viscosities and the activator to force dry the glue. I ran out of the activator so used masking tape to pull the lens and body together until it had bonded/dried. I used my heat gun to aid drying also.
Vitalbond Super Glue model cars plastics,metal,balsa wood,leather,No mixing, DIY | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And I cleaned it thoroughly with this stuff before gluing/sealing:
 
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