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Battery issues? just replaced

1K views 4 replies 5 participants last post by  MerleK20Z3 
#1 ·
Howdy y’all, 2012 honda car-z

Dash lights would come on and it would click but refused to start
I was able to jump it, took it to honda to replace the battery
It’s been about a month since battery replacement now

After replacing battery, car starts and drove fine for about a week, is now having the same issues
This time, no dash lights or clicking but am able to jump start.

Some strange details, one day it wouldn’t start I smashed my fist where the ignition is and it started on next crank
Another day it wouldn’t start, I popped the hood and noticed the lights come on in the car because I left my key in the ignition, car started
For the first time today, self jumper gave me issues but it worked on the 3rd attempt
I’ve noticed every time after a jump, the dash shows no bars for battery but charges as I’m driving

I appreciate any guidance as I’ve replaced the battery already and am being told starter now but don’t want to keep throwing money and not fixing the root cause, I gave Honda a call because I found this, https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10118827-9999.pdf

Hoping since I replaced my battery with them I may get some help short of the IMA battery software being the issue, waiting for a call back

Thanks again
 
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#2 ·
Gotta check if the 12V battery is getting charged when the car is running.
Also, check the resting 12V battery voltage.

The TSB might not be related.
If the resting voltage is below 12V AND the car is charging as it should, they probably gave you a bad battery.

Given what you've stated here, I would start by checking for corrosion around the positive terminal (under red plastic). Also check for a loose connection.
 
#4 ·
The hybrid battery tends to drain itself when you are having under the hood battery charge issues.

As for your starter i believe it only comes into use when your hybrid battery doesn't have the juice to start the car. I have had my car (2011 EX) for 4 years and the starter only kicked in once during the winter.
 
#5 ·
The DC-to-DC unit in the IMA battery package takes the higher hybrid DC battery voltage and drops it to 13.4V DC approximately, to charge the 12V battery. There are 4 cables running from the engine compartment back to the IMA package. The orange ones are the IMA motor/generator. The black one is the 12V+ cable. For the 12V- side, the 12V battery has a short cable to the car body. Check for corrosion at the 12V- (ground) cable, both ends, and the 12V+ connections. When the car is running, the 12V battery should be ABOVE 12V, indicating it is being charged. My 2016 is probably like yours, in that the car originally only had the ground cable from 12V- to the body. I added a #4AWG cable from that same body screw shared with the 12V- cable, and connected the other end to one of the bolts mounting my slave clutch cylinder to the bell housing. The dealer should be checking that the DC-to-DC converter in the IMA package is outputting a charging voltage. If you are going anywhere near the orange cables, you need to throw the switch at the IMA package in the back first, to take the power off those cables. There is enough there to kill you.
 
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