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I recently had a similar experience with the service department at the dealership I bought my car from. I went in for a basic service appointment, oil change/general inspection, however I had recently had the Check IMA, CEL, Check Airbag, and Check Exhaust lights come on intermittently.

I talked to the guy who did the "Check In" and he stated "Sir, your car has been out of warranty for about 3k miles. Without a warranty it'll cost $125 just to hook up the diagnostic tool." So I told him the error codes, to which he replied "Sorry, I can't look up that information without connecting your car to our diagnostic system."

In the end I told them to just worry about the regular service on my Z and I would think about coming back to have a diagnostic run. I sat in the waiting area for 2 hours, after I was given a 45 minute estimated wait time, before I was informed my car was ready. While I was walking up to pay for the oil change / etc the guy gives me the same spiel about the survey. It was almost exactly what the guy told you TheBlitzAce right down to the special treatment crap.

I had similar service from another dealership when I went in for service while out of town, which I expected, however I did not expect to receive the same treatment from the people I bought my car from. Maybe they are pissy because I refuse to trade in my perfectly good '13 for a new '15 or '16...
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Final Update!

I just got my car back last night and all I had to pay was 100 dollars, so I could have the warranty on the fan.

So far, my baby runs great.

As for a service technician that helped me (the one that tried to guilt me into giving him a perfect score), well, he got fired. Not sure if it was because of my issue or not, but he's gone and I'm glad. He was the most unprofessional person I've ever had to deal with, anywhere.

I really do appreciate your guys' help with this issue. Without your help, I wouldn't have known about fighting this problem.

Joining this site has been a blessing in disguise, so thank you.
 

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4 hours later, the guy I was dealing with called me and I quote "Do you listen to the radio without your car running?" "Maybe like once in a blue moon, why?" I said. "Ah, I was hoping you'd say that." He said. He basically told me my issue was that I drained the battery too quick and to not listen to my radio when my car isn't running. So he cleared the code and he said I should be fine. Cool.
Dealers.

I'd about bet the car alarm system draws more juice than the radio does.

I had a run-in with the dealer when I got in the car after the $200 oil change and saw my joystick handle on the nav missing. They got their survey back, all right. And after six weeks, I got a new knob.

I don't know if the dealership replaced the knobs they have working for them. I don't know that I'll ever go there again.
 

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Is airflow to the battery compartment reduced because it’s getting blocked ?

“The guy at Honda asked what was wrong and I told him the code and that my battery fan was always on full blast.”

I’m wondering if the airflow to the battery compartment is reduced because it’s getting blocked.

The air intake is behind the driver’s seat, fairly high up and unlikely to be blocked. But the exhaust is in the trunk, on the passenger side and right by the floor of the trunk. I keep my tools and other stuff in cardboard boxes in the trunk. If there’s a box right next the exhaust vent then the air flow could be reduced, even though there a small guard screen over the exhaust vent to keep it from being completely blocked.

I’ve been researching issues related to the voltage output of the DC converter, and whether the voltage is high enough to keep the 12 V battery charged during normal use. Last summer I was trying to figure out why the DC converter voltage was only 12.8 V for long periods of time, when the 12 V battery only had about 25% of a full charge. (12.8 volt is not enough to recharge the battery, and it only briefly went up to 13.8 V before dropping back down.) According to the shop manual the DC converter reduces the output voltage when it overheats.

I rearranged the boxes in my trunk to ensure there was a lot of clearance with the exhaust vent. After I did this, the voltage output stabilized at 13.8 V most of the time during normal driving; i.e., not auto-stopped.

I question the design wisdom of putting the exhaust vent in a location where it can be blocked by stuff in the trunk, but that’s another issue.

Anyway, it’s something to be aware of.
 

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Is this issue fixed?

Hi,

Is this issue fixed by replacing the IMA battery fan permanently?

Thank You,
/Shardha
 

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2011 CR-Z GT-Navi Milano Red
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Is there any way to clean the fan to prevent this issue? I know people do it in Toyota Hybrids?
 

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Flip the IMA switch in the trunk, drive like that until your new fan comes in. Replace fan yourself. Profit.

1J810-RTW-003 ~$230
Does this work?

When I flipped the switch on the battery in the trunk, the car doesn't try to start.
 

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Is there any way to clean the fan to prevent this issue? I know people do it in Toyota Hybrids?
Late reply but yeah you could. Out of curiosity I did it years ago seeing how much dust and junk can accumulate on fan blades and I drive windows down almost all the time in a really poor air quality city. It really did not need to be done, blades were fine and not gummed up, ducts were all clear; I think keeping the inlet and exhaust ports unobstructed by items in your compartment/trunk is probably more important.

Does this work?
When I flipped the switch on the battery in the trunk, the car doesn't try to start.
Well flipping that switch disables the high-voltage system so if your car doesn't start you've probably got a weak 12V.
 

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Thanks. I've ordered the part but it's backordered and I need to move about 200 miles away by the end of the week. I'll look into testing and maybe replacing the battery.

Edit
Just out of curiosity, how bad would it be to start the car then flip the IMA switch off?

I have a capacitor jumppack I was hoping to use give my hood battery a kick but it doesn't seem to be working.
 

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With IMA disabled you may need to use the jump starter or it should start with the conventional(emergency) starter. If it does not then it might be your jump starter or your conventional starter has issues or the under hood battery is too weak.

Since the IMA motor generator is working but you have an overheating IMA battery issue everything should still work but with the overheating issue the DC to DC converter my not work right to protect itself and with the battery pack turned off I do not know if that disables the DC to DC converter which is what charges your under hood battery. @PeterPerkins would know better what happens when you turn that switch off. In any case make sure your jump starter works because in a special situation like this your under hood battery will get discharged very quickly and or be degraded to a point where it may not even be able to be jumped or charged.

In the past I had a failing alternator and under hood battery on a car and I had a lead acid jump pack with an accessory power port so my dad to get the car to a shop made me a cable to connect that port to the accessory port in the car and to get just enough extra power to keep car running while i drove it to shop. I think we jump started the car the normal way then put the jump starter on the floor on the passenger side and hooked up the cable my Dad made(jumpstarter was too big to put under the hood. With the current LI- ION jump srarters you can probaly just hook it up to the battery under hood if you can place it way from the battery). I was able to drive the car to the shop and did not get stranded. This worked because the accessory port in that car was live all time ours turn off when car is off.

With all that being said is your car without doing anything special able to be driven but has warning lights? If so just drive it and have the jump starter available.

Thanks. I've ordered the part but it's backordered and I need to move about 200 miles away by the end of the week. I'll look into testing and maybe replacing the battery.

Edit
Just out of curiosity, how bad would it be to start the car then flip the IMA switch off?

I have a capacitor jumppack I was hoping to use give my hood battery a kick but it doesn't seem to be working.
 

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With all that being said is your car without doing anything special able to be driven but has warning lights? If so just drive it and have the jump starter available.
I once had a warning come on saying check charging system I think, but it has not returned. I know my fan is still blowing because I hear it kick into high speed after about twenty minutes. I'll give my jumpstart another shot this afternoon. Thanks for the help.
 
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