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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got back from the dealer, went there to address the issues with the car.

Bubble in the pass door card:blush:...they ordered another one will have to go back to get it swapped out.:thumbsup:

"Fish eyes" in the paint:angry:...Some compound will take them out so ill do it myself in the spring.

Allignment was pulling to the left:angry:...they added some air(which was low cuz my light would come on for about 5 miles then shut off when tires warmed up) and that actually seems to have worked. They gave me a copy of the specs in case i wanted to go to a shop to get it done on my own, they said to bring the bill and they will reimbers me.:blush:

Leans low on left side....Heres the kicker, they said that honda factory sets it that way to compinsate for the crown in the road.:rolleyes:
 

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can you show me a picture of that bubble in the pass door card?
I have heard someone talk about those bubbling but didnt see any pics hahaha
 

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Leans low on left side....Heres the kicker, they said that honda factory sets it that way to compinsate for the crown in the road.:rolleyes:
*caugh*BS*caugh*

I don't know how much of a lean you have, so who knows, but my CR-Z has no appreciable lean. Have you measured the wheel gaps at the four corners? Maybe we could compare your numbers vs. ours to see if you indeed have an abnormal lean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what are the alignment numbers?? and yes, you DON'T want an all "0" sheet... some negative is ok as long as it's in the camber and NOT on the TOE... the TOE should read "0" on all sides...

These numbers are what honda specs for the CR-Z, they are not what my car is at, i dont know what the car is at.

Camber
Front: 0* 00' +/- 1*
Rear: -1* 30+/-1*

Caster
Front: 3* 22' +/- 1*

Total Toe-In
Front: 0 +/- 3mm (0 +/- 0.12")
Rear: 3 + 2 -3 mm (0.12 + 0.08 - 0.12 in)

Front Wheel Turning Angle
Inward: 38* 08' +/- 2*
Outward(Reference): 31* 46' +/- 1*
 

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wow, that's confusing to read lol... i can read front/rear and left/right like this:
LF RF
LR RR

but those numbers mashed together is hard to make sense of it... and i used to do alignments haha... on that note, caster would not be changed unless the car was in an accident and something on the suspension got seriously bent and not replaced...

wait, i think i figured out what those numbers mean...
Front Toe:
0 or within 3mm ("0" or within 0.12")
Rear Toe:
3 or within 2mm to -3mm (0.12 or within 0.08" to -0.12")

rear toe makes absolutely no sense... can you break that down or show me where you got those numbers from so i can make sense of it?? i know it's been a while since i've done an alignment, but damn numbers are still numbers lol...
 

· Capt'n Jack
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These numbers are what honda specs for the CR-Z, they are not what my car is at, i dont know what the car is at.

Camber
Front: 0* 00' +/- 1*
Rear: -1* 30+/-1*

Caster
Front: 3* 22' +/- 1*

Total Toe-In
Front: 0 +/- 3mm (0 +/- 0.12")
Rear: 3 + 2 -3 mm (0.12 + 0.08 - 0.12 in)

Front Wheel Turning Angle
Inward: 38* 08' +/- 2*
Outward(Reference): 31* 46' +/- 1*
:confused: :iough: Glad someone has somewhat of an idea what this means. :blush:
 

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*caugh*BS*caugh*

I don't know how much of a lean you have, so who knows, but my CR-Z has no appreciable lean. Have you measured the wheel gaps at the four corners? Maybe we could compare your numbers vs. ours to see if you indeed have an abnormal lean.
Just my two cents, but I measure from the wheel center of the hub to the peak of the wheel arch, I have found it more accurate.:hi5:
 

· Capt'n Jack
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Exactly. The choice of method takes into account inaccuracy tread wear causes when measuring wheel gap. The method removes tread wear from the equation. Semantics.
DumbSh!t Scotty001 is breaking out the sliderule with the instruction manual. Will be back in a year or two with intelligent input. :iough: Oh, wait a minute got one of those i7 computer things, make it 6 months.
:think:

Sorry, I'm teasing. All good stuff. Impressive.

Scott
 
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