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So, I broke a tpms sensor while mounting my winter tires. Sucks.

I bought this tool:
TPMS Reset Tool - ATEQ QuickSet

from this site:
Ateq Tpms - Auto Parts Warehouse

It looks like this:


I stopped by my local honda dealership for them to wirelessly read out the sensor's code with their fancy tool, because I didn't think to write down the code of the new sensor I installed. I programmed the replacement sensor (I have a box of them, because I had the foresight to buy them off of civic and fit owners when they de-TPMS'd their cars) and it works.

The light is gone, procedure was simple, and now I won't have to pay a dealership when I swap from winter to summer and summer to winter wheels. :D

Total cost: $107.41 shipped from autopartswarehouse.com, and a few minutes at the dealership.

Here are the steps: (1-5 are from memory, didn't take pictures)

1. Install the software, it will tell you when to plug the device in.
2. Software will connect to device, and prompt you to select your vehicle, then plug it into your vehicle to load the sensor ESNs.
3. Plug device into the vehicle, turn vehicle key to the run position, plug in device, then hold down the appropriate button.
4. Disconnect device from vehicle, reconnect device to computer.
5. Software will read ESNs from the device and import into computer.
6. Modify the ESNs as required, and click confirm:


7. Follow the prompts:


8. ???
9. PROFIT
 

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This is a great tool for anyone with more than one set of wheels.

I just want to add some notes for those who have yet to use this device.

Everything went well for downloading the sensor ID's already stored in the ECU (for those who want to grab the ID's from the OEM wheels that came with their car).

When switching to the new wheels and using the ATEQ Quickset to program the ECU for the new sensor ID's, there was a little bit of confusion and I haven't seen anyone else mention it (maybe others didn't experience it the way I did).

After plugging in the ATEQ and programming the new sensor IDs, the Multi-Function-Display showed a 'check TPMS' warning, with the chime, only unlike the normal TMPS chime, this one would not go away by toggling the MFD up or down info buttons on the steering wheel. It was an incessant, constantly repeating chime that would not go away. (I initially reset the ECU and reprogrammed the sensor IDs a second time thinking I did something wrong or the quickset messed up).

I decided to just drive the car as suggested. The chime and TPMS warning did go away fairly fast, however there was no assist from the IMA while driving the first few blocks, I looked down and saw zero bars on the battery charge indicator, and the vehicle wouldn't go into auto-stop (was recharging, higher than normal idle), outside temperature was also incorrectly indicated as 109* F, this may have all been from re-setting the ECU, or the quickset re-program, but it was all resolved. After a few more minutes of driving the battery charge returned to normal, IMA and auto-stop were working again and the temperature finally leveled off to normal.

So I just wanted to post my experience with the device, as others may have a similar experience and think that something was done incorrectly, don't freak-out! Everything is back to normal, and after several start ups and some freeway driving to ensure the TPMS system is active the TPMS light is gone and the new wheel's sensors are successfully programmed.

No need to give money away to the tire shops or stealerships. :cool:
 

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^Yeah, the process isn't exactly "butter smooth", but it works.

Also, with brand new sensors, or for sensors that have sat for awhile, you need to lower the pressure again after first pressurizing them. This initializes them or something. I could not get the constant TPMS chiming to stop, no matter how much I drove, until I figured this out.
 

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One of the tips I picked up from a tire shop is to over-inflate the tires above 40 psi. Then lower the pressure down well below 30. As Item9 noted, the sensors need to initialize. By raising the pressure way up before dropping them down low, you are giving the sensors more time to detect the change.

I haven't actually tried this myself, but it worked for the shop.
 
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