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The AC on the CR-Z I bought with a salvaged title is not working. After checking the freon I decided to check the compressor clutch. I turned on the AC and checked the voltage between the red wire and the ground and got no voltage. Checked all the fuses and they are fine. Next I ran a jump wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the red wire on the compressor. Again, nothing happened. I took a voltage reading on the green and red wires with the red wired jumped and got 12 volts.

At this point, I am assuming that the coil is bad, (I read this is a common problem) and there is also a relay that has been smoked by the bad coil. Does this sound right to anyone that has gone through this?
 

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John first off what year is the CR-Z and second what is the problem with the AC? The Honda maintenance manual has lots of troubleshooting options for the HVAC dependent on the issue.
 

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John first off what year is the CR-Z and second what is the problem with the AC? The Honda maintenance manual has lots of troubleshooting options for the HVAC dependent on the issue.
This is a 2011 CR-Z. The problem with the AC is it doesn't work. There is no power to the AC clutch when the AC is turned on and the AC clutch will not be activate when hooked directly to the battery. Pretty sure what I am thinking is correct, but was looking for some feedback from someone that has gone through it.
 

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Well the maintenance manual states this for:

The blower and heater controls and the A/C system do not work
Diagnostic procedure
Probable cause: The climate control unit malfunction
Do the climate control power and ground circuit troubleshooting
Also check for
Climate control DTCs
PGM-FI DTCs
Blown fuse No. E24 (7.5 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box and No. C11 (30 A) in the auxiliary under-dash fuse box
Poor ground at G502
Poor or loose connections at the terminals
 

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Granted this is for a 2013

Climate Control Power and Ground Circuit Troubleshooting
Check the No. E24 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Is the fuse OK?
YES -
Go to step 2 .
NO -
Replace the fuse, and recheck. If the fuse blows again, check for a short in the No. E24 (7.5 A) fuse circuit.■
Disconnect the climate control unit 36P connector.
Turn the vehicle to the ON mode.
Measure the voltage between the climate control unit 36P connector terminal No. 36 and body ground.
Is there battery voltage?
YES -
Go to step 5 .
NO -
Repair an open in the wire between the No. E24 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the climate control unit .■
Turn the vehicle to the OFF (LOCK) mode.

Check for continuity between the climate control unit 36P connector terminal No. 31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES -
Check for loose wires or poor connections at the climate control unit 36P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good climate control unit and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original climate control unit .■
NO -
Check for an open in the wire between the climate control unit and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G502 .■
 

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It sounds to me like you have gone through the correct procedure in testing the coil.

I would make sure that your grounds are good, and also try replacing the relays.

Sent you over the FSM so that you can have a bit more diagnostic info. AC compressor issues were the first thing I fixed on my car when I got it. Wish you luck!! How many miles are on your car?
 

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Since this was a salvage car is it possible it was hit in the front and the compressor is damaged?
 

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I just had to replace the compressor on my 2011. I am the original owner. The coil and the clutch needed to be replaced, but it's easier just to replace the compressor. I bought a Four Seasons for $280.
 

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Also, my a/c was still fully charged so I went to a local wreaking yard and purchased an a/c compressor from a crz ( you can also get an insight one) and pulled the clutch and coil off and put it on my compressor while it was still in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, my a/c was still fully charged so I went to a local wreaking yard and purchased an a/c compressor from a crz ( you can also get an insight one) and pulled the clutch and coil off and put it on my compressor while it was still in the car.
Thanks for the insight and the tips. I am pretty sure that the coil is toast, but I have a couple more tests to do. It does have the AC light comes on but no power to the clutch coil, and no fans turn on when the AC is on. Unit does have freon in it. 77K miles. My first Honda, but from what I have read the coils on them tend to fail pretty regularly.
 

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You can rebuild your totaled car and it might require a salvage title depending on your local laws.:nerd:
Oh, I don't think they'll be rebuilding my total. Although it still drives pretty well.... but you can tell it isn't right.
 

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Oh, I don't think they'll be rebuilding my total. Although it still drives pretty well.... but you can tell it isn't right.
You would be surprised what can be done by a good shop. Problem is the insurance companies have policies that if the rebuild costs x% of vehicle value they total. You can fight if you want by going to a shop you know and getting a real estimate when the car is taken apart but do you really want to do that? Of course it is not driving right at the moment it was in the middle of a sandwich.:surprise:
 

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... Of course it is not driving right at the moment it was in the middle of a sandwich.:surprise:
Best part is always in the middle of the sandwich.
 

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I'm trying to get through the rest of my days without a "repaired" car. I'd see the mis-matched paint every time I walked up to it.
 
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