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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The low-friction fuzzy board/plank in the hatch has the typical auto-material used to line trunks and finished cargo areas. As such, it does a very poor job preventing things from sliding around. I always put down a surface of contact material in my trunks, and application in the CRZ is very easy.

The rear load plank that sits over the spare is held in with just a couple of friction clips, so it is very easy to remove. In addition, the plank is 36 inches wide... and contact paper is usually 18 inches wide. This means no need for precise cutting :)

Cost is $12 to $30 depending on what materials you already have on hand.

Because this modification is simple, I didn't take any pictures of the work in progress.

Testing with my laptop (20 mile drive at a normal pace). The power brick still rolls around, but the laptop didn't move at all from where I had it set at the start of the trip.

Quick n' dirty job I did in folding over the vinyl to conform with the funny rounded edges and subwoofer nook on the end of the board.

Pair of scissors.

Butter knife or some piece of metal with a dull edge.

Large flat surface to work on.


1) Con-Tact solid grip high friction vinyl (2 rolls were required):
Con-Tact Solid Grip 48 in. x 18 in. Black Drawer/Shelf Liner - 04F-C6U51-06 at The Home Depot

2) 3M spray adhesive:
3M Super 77 16.75 fl. oz. Multipurpose Spray Adhesive - 77-24 at The Home Depot

3) Decent quality duct tape:
Scotch 1-29/32 in. x 75 ft. No-Residue Painter's Duct Tape - P2425 at The Home Depot

In essence, I am making my own double-sided tape by putting down the duct tape on to the board, and they spraying the adhesive onto the back side of the tape. This allows me to remove the vinyl down the road without totally destroying the fuzzy-surface of the board.

A high-quality duct tape usually keeps its adhesive (doesn't transfer the adhesive to the object that the tape is stuck onto), and quality tape is usually easier to tear into the strip sizes you need.


1) Remove the rear plank from your vehicle. As I mentioned, two small friction clips hold it in; pull up carefully to remove the board.

2) Put down strips of the duct tape. I tend to run parallel strips along the "bendy" parts of the board. I suppose there is no way to use too much tape, but don't go nuts with it. Running parallel with the bendy parts of the board will help prevent bunching if you ever need to access the spare.

3) Carefully spray the 3M adhesive onto the tape. Short/quick bursts with the nozzle 1-centimeter from the tape work well.

4) Line up and unroll the contact vinyl. The 3M adhesive takes about 30 minutes to set - so put down some books onto the board and go eat lunch.

5) Trim the contact vinyl to a reasonable length. Also, cut a small hole to allow access to the "grab-tab" that lets you access the spare.

6) Fold over the excess edges underneath the board. This will require making various cuts to the excess material.

7) Tape it off (nobody sees the underside, so I didn't care too much about making this end look awesome)

8) Re-install the cargo board into your vehicle.

9) Use a dull blade to help press the "bendy-pivot" indentations into the vinyl. There are parts of the board that bend upward to allow access to the spare or to allow the rear seat/bench to fold upward. Creating a hard crease along these pivots will help the vinyl keep its shape when you access the spare tire.

It is likely that the materials I referenced were not intended for use in a motor vehicle. As such, this modification may impart additional risk due to material flammability and combustion rates.

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Thanks Donut, I did this in my Z, and it really does work great, and protects the factory materials too. Although I am a pipe smoker, and I lit up about 15 minute after finishing the job, and my car burst into flame. ARGH! :eek:hmy: lol, JK It really worked great I would recommend his mod to everyone.
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