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...Now i can barely hold with excitement, as the tuner said, the last push, the IMA batteries drained in the end, so the results would have been a bit higher in terms of HP, something close to 230 - 235.
I'll try to make videos when i visit back Portugal in February!
For now i can only share with you my exciment, and now close the project. Unless @MartinT Decides to donate me his Vented Hood :D

AFTER:grin2:


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Great news! Thanks for posting the update! Good luck on getting Martin's Seibon.... :grin2:
 

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Wow, nice result there. Watch those con rods!
 

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awesome build man!
i think i am going to take this route as well.
is there any way you could post the price list?
would you change anything or do anything differently?
 

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hey aceryl> right in the beginning of your thread i read you would take a cvt transmission best uptil 190hp and rev it below 5600? i was hoping if i get hondata i could take it upto 7000rpm? is that not right?
 

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It was the first clutch replacement I'd ever done! Wasn't too bad at all - did it on my back in the driveway. It can be done without removal of the subframe. First time it took me a couple hours because I was feeling it all out as I was going. Second and third time were under an hour. All in, you're probably looking at about three hours for transmission out, clutch in, transmission back on and reassembled.

Break the axle nuts free slightly while the car is still on the ground in case you need to use a breaker bar. The car should still be new enough that they'll come free with an impact, but just a heads up! To remove the axles, split the spindle from the lower balljoint rather than removing your eccentric bolts on the strut. Way easier method, one pin, one nut, and there's no fighting to find your alignment again after the fact. Use a deadblow to strike the spindle itself and it'll knock the balljoint out of it's taper - you'll have to give it some force, but I promise you it'll free up.

It's really not as daunting as it looks, and nothing scary going on with the IMA. There's a switch under the rear floor to turn the whole unit off during the process.

All you'll need to complete the service is basic hand tools and a good torque wrench. Follow OEM torque specs and procedures and you'll be golden.

Spec Clutch by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Spec Clutch by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Be sure to use an OEM throwout bearing, not the one included with the kit! Replace your old one with an OEM unit as you're doing this, they're inexpensive and it's good preventative maintenance.

Throwout Bearing CR-Z by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

A funnel and clear hose will make filling your transmission significantly easier after the fact.

Beyond that, there's not much else to worry about. Let me know if you've got any more questions! I had the transmission out on three different occasions, so I'm pretty well versed in it.


Not trying to Hijack your build thread here, but this is some awesome info.

Rustbucket: Do you have anymore pics you could email me? I can host them for you as well to re-post.

I want to know, how did you pull the trans without removing the subframe? It looks removed in your pics?

Did you use a trans jack? Any tips on this? I will be doing it soon, and any tips about pulling the trans and the clutch job itself will help me a ton!! I'm sure it will help others here too.

If you PM me this info, I will repost on the forum.

Sorry to jack your thread, but this may also help you in the future. When I pull my trans I plan on doing a write-up / possible video.

Any more info you can give about the job would be awesome. Were you on jack stands? Did you use a clutch alignment tool? All hand tools? More pics?

BTW, your build is sweet here. The red car looks very nice for this build!! I have a north shore blue pearl myself. 2011!! And 200+ HP. Thats crazy! How is the gas mileage like? Large drop?

I hope in the future to put a turbo or supercharger in mine. Was leaning more towards supercharger as I live in a mountain area.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #147
awesome build man!
i think i am going to take this route as well.
is there any way you could post the price list?
would you change anything or do anything differently?
Sorry that i'm not so active anymore....

I can't give you a full list, as it wasn't me who built the system, and of course as everything was custom, it will vary on your tuner/builder/country.

For me the tuning/setup costed 3500€ + 600€ Hondata, And 950€ For the Ogura Clutch.

Hmmm do something differently? Yeah, because there's issues with MOT's and police in Portugal, i would have the initial builder. make custom work on the original airbox, for concealment purposes You can hollow it, and put a performance filter in it, and still run the piping appopriate for the turbo, just would take some more effort.

In other news:

I've finally made the dream come true! Even though i miss my Z, which is 2000km away from me and doesn't drive that often now that i'm away ( sadly ), BUT, i bought this older Bro, that has always been on my list!



So yeah, now i get to get my Turboe'd Z, and my dream S2000 :D.
Comparing the two performance wise, i think they are prettty even, but i feel my Z is a bit faster. Something about IMA ( Low rpm boost ) + Mid size turbo spooling as early as 2500rpm, just feels lovely. I miss it hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #148
I know it's been a while.

But I'm looking into getting exhaust bits back, so I can replace my current exhaust with oem line, for MOT purposes.

Basically things got tricky and it's harder to "pass" emissions.

If anyone isn't using their oem exhaust line, I'll be looking into acquiring depending on the price.
 
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