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is yours a 2016? if so then there maybe a different process but other years we have been pointed to this youtube link
Yes sir, 2016 EX CVT.
 

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Should still be under warranty. It was a CPO purchase from the dealer, haven’t crossed 15K yet, it is my daily driver and my commute is only 6 miles away.
 

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Does the AC ever actually come on? The quickest thing you can look at to see is if the clutch plate is even spinning or not. If not, then it could be the shims, or possibly a bad coil (magnet). They can check the 'clutch plate' gap for you, and also check your refridgerant level via a pressure gauge.

Honesty tho, it your car only has 15k and its not working, I would suspect a possible bad relay, or?? I mean, it should be working. Does it ever come on?
 

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It does come on because with the AC off you get warmer air blowing.
 

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It does have the extended warranty and i am scheduled for a visit on Thursday for the AC issue.
Let us know what happens. Because yeah, at that mileage, you should not be having this problem.

Also, unless you can see the clutch engaging, I wouldn't assume it just is. Need to watch it and see if it spins with the pulley.

Hope its an easy fix. But, even at that mileage, you should not be leaking refrigerant either.
 

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It does have the extended warranty and i am scheduled for a visit on Thursday for the AC issue.
Update: Dealer stated that the condenser had to be changed, part had to be ordered. Went back last Thursday and part was not delivered, rescheduled for today, After waiting 3 hours I was told the condenser was changed and they needed a new return line because the threads were damaged on the old one. Rescheduled to return tomorrow morning. When I got home and looked under the hood the condenser was not changed or any lines removed. So tomorrow I will have them explain what was really done.

To be continued!
 
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If nothing was done how were the threads damaged? You are being lied to and they are playing games you could have ordered the Condenser from Rock Auto with all the other parts needed probably for less than the dealer. Are they sure it is failed or are they padding your bill and actually doing no work?

It damn well better be covered by warranty and you want to see all removed parts and the new parts in the car before you sign off on the work.
 

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Supposedly it is covered by the warranty but it is such an inconvenience to leave the house and go the dealership and wait only to be handed some BS. I am going to be patient because it will be like arguing with a waiter in a restaurant.
 

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Very strange. Maybe they PLAN to change the condenser, found the damaged threads and planned to do everything at once after they got the return line? Either way, they should tell you that.
Also, did they tell you why did the condenser have to be replaced?
 
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So I was told to get there today for 9:00am and my vehicle will be expedited however nothing was done for 2 hours and after another 3 hours I drove away with my AC working and didn’t have to pay anything. The condenser was replaced as far as I can see today and not yesterday.

I overheard a service rep telling a customer over the phone that he needs his condenser replaced and it will cost him $2,200.00. Those dealerships really rip off the customers, I sat there and listened to customers being raped financially by telling customers they need their differentials flushed and brake fluids changed because the copper contaminated the fluids. The low battery warning for the remote is resolved by changing the battery for $10.00.
 

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So I was told to get there today for 9:00am and my vehicle will be expedited however nothing was done for 2 hours and after another 3 hours I drove away with my AC working and didn’t have to pay anything. The condenser was replaced as far as I can see today and not yesterday.

I overheard a service rep telling a customer over the phone that he needs his condenser replaced and it will cost him $2,200.00. Those dealerships really rip off the customers, I sat there and listened to customers being raped financially by telling customers they need their differentials flushed and brake fluids changed because the copper contaminated the fluids. The low battery warning for the remote is resolved by changing the battery for $10.00.
Yea I don’t go to stealership unless it’s a free repair lol
 

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Thanks, I didn't see any pics or a video of the process of getting to the clutch to remove the shim...do you have to get to it under the car, or is it accessible or possible from top down? I don't have any jacks, and am not sure how to remove the wind shield underneath. I suppose I could get drive up ramps if that works?
 

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So it's not possible to get to the clutch and remove the shim without jacking up the car? Can I use drive up ramps instead? Any instructions on the shield removal?

Did you read that thread? It has ALL the info you need to do exactly what I'm talking about. No tools are required. You are not removing ANY hoses from the compressor.

All you are doing is taking the front clutch plate off, removing a shim, and putting it back on. No need to torque to spec, or anything. I just used a 12v impact to take it off, and then put it back on with the impact which does a max torque of 20 ft/lbs. Its as easy as can be!

I suggest you read the ENTIRE thread I sent you. It will answer every question you have, and then some.

Also, I wouldn't even bother paying someone to do it. its so simple. If you do pay someone, it should take 2 hours MAX. Not even. The hardest part is jacking the car up and pulling the plastic shields off. Once you get the plastic off the bottom of the car, it will take 5 minutes. Simple as can be!
 

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See this thread:
AC problems and

and

Ramps might work or a Jack and Jack stands are not too expensive and some parts places will rent.
 

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So it's not possible to get to the clutch and remove the shim without jacking up the car? Can I use drive up ramps instead? Any instructions on the shield removal?
Nope.. no easy way. Come on.. this is the easy part!! LOL. If you cant jack the vehicle up and put it on stands, you may not be cut out for this. Just kidding.. but really though. You will at least need to jack it up so you can see what you are doing. No way around it. You could drive up on ramps, but there is no way you are going to fit under there properly. You need to pull the wheel to make this easy.
 

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Ahhh, I don't have the room and tools to take off the wheel so it looks like I'm going to have to take it in to a dealer and have them check the AC clutch for a clutch overhaul. I'll have them double check the freon, the fuses look fine. I'll get a quote up front if it is the clutch...any other suggestions?
 
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