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Discussion Starter #1
AC quit working. Changed compressor clutch a couple thousand miles before it crapped out again. Seems to be low pressure switch.

Just wanting to see if anyone knows whether I can remove the switch without evacuating the system or if there is a nipple inside once it's off?
 

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Have you removed the shims? As far as I know you will need to evacuate the system to change that switch but I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah it has a whole new compressor clutch and coil. Worked for awhile. Still operates with jumper wire to compressor. Power runs all the way to low pressure switch, I can use a jumper wire on the harness connect for the switch and get everything to work. So I'm 99.9% sure it's my issue.
 

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Find a dealer or other AC shop. Even though you replaced the compressor clutch and coil the new coil may have lost strength so it could not hurt to remove all the shims and test the system then take it somewhere to someone who can evacuate the system and replace that switch if it is still failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was the pressure switch. No need to evacuate the system if anyone finds this in the future. Also the stock switch required a 27 mm deep socket, the replacement only a 24 mm. If your gonna do this yourself make sure you have an assortment of sizes. The Insight guys these years are 26 mm.
 

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Seems odd you can replace the switch without losing the Freon or vacuum? What does the switch read? I am glad you were able to replace it without much trouble.

It was the pressure switch. No need to evacuate the system if anyone finds this in the future. Also the stock switch required a 27 mm deep socket, the replacement only a 24 mm. If your gonna do this yourself make sure you have an assortment of sizes. The Insight guys these years are 26 mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It has a Schrader valve behind it, like the valves that are in your tire. It presses on it slightly to let it out to read it. So I'm sure a tiny amount came out putting on and off. Not enough to matter.

I believe it tested at 0.5v and the manual said 0.6v. That's off the top of my head though. It is a variable signal though.

My symptoms before it crapped out was a fast cycling on/off from compressor. Was blowing cold just not for long enough to cool car well. When it died neither fan or compressor would come on through button commands.
 

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so schrader valve blocks the switch and when you replace switch it does not open the system to the air or loss of freon? Good to know. Thanks

It has a Schrader valve behind it, like the valves that are in your tire. It presses on it slightly to let it out to read it. So I'm sure a tiny amount came out putting on and off. Not enough to matter.

I believe it tested at 0.5v and the manual said 0.6v. That's off the top of my head though. It is a variable signal though.

My symptoms before it crapped out was a fast cycling on/off from compressor. Was blowing cold just not for long enough to cool car well. When it died neither fan or compressor would come on through button commands.
 
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