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Abdul's k24 or k20 Swap build/Guide with Complete Wiring diagrams

193232 Views 136 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Nivek
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Hello there, this is about swapping a k24 or k20 in a Crz. In this swap a k24a2/a3 is being swapped. Purpose to do a K24 swap is that it is a lot cheaper than k20 and has more torque and is at 200 Hp and has very much potential to go up in Hp range very easily, plus is boost friendly as it has 10.5:1 CR.
Until recently ( Nov 18,2017) HAsport only made mounts of K-swap(k20 only) for either Civic Si(k20z3) transmissions or DC5 ones which added to swap cost as they are very expensive. If you were to use a k24 block, you would still need a k20z3 or a K20 DC5/RSX-S transmissions. But now HAsport makes mounts for CRZ which support k24 transmissions (TSX 6 spd, Civic si 2012-2015).So now a complete k24 swap can be done in very less $$$$
Now presenting the video series which contains many new things,covers both k24 & k20 route.Also covers Zf1 & Zf2 aswell as Fit GE(2nd Gen) and Fit GK(3rd Gen).

Complete k swap guide part1
Estimated Project cost will be 4500-5000$.(Can go up depending upon labor of shop). This will be very feasible alternative to SC or Turbo kits available for Crz which cost from 3000-5000$
Costs:
Engine
k24a2/a3 with 6 spd manual transmission 1500$-2000$
Shifter & cables= 150$ https://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Honda-Civic-Si-Shifter-And-Shifter-Cables-OEM-K20z3-/282665373668?fits=Make:Honda|Model:Civic&hash=item41d02b4fe4:g:GeEAAOSwYyxZf5NL
HAsport Mounts for k24 (now they make them) 700$ (You have to mention k24 and its transmission type when placing order)
Flashpro/Ktuner: 700$/450$
Axles: 500$(HAsport crz for k24, tell them to ship the k24 ones as the k24 half shaft is longer than k20 )
Or you can buy Insane shaft axles which are rated for 500 hp ,I contacted them and they got data of axles from Hasport (Thanks Brian for sharing data for our sake).So now you can get those in 350$ instead of HAsport 500$ and more strong also than HAsport.
It has come into my information that stock k20z half shaft and axles are bolt ons. This engine comes in Civic Fd1(Malaysia) or you can search which alternate version internationally.
I have tried Insaneshaft axles in my Fit and both axles did't fit. So kindly contact Insaneshafts before buying that if axles dont fit they will return them back and refund you.

K20 idler pulley optional: 40$(If k24 have hydraulic Power Steering pump pulley and you don’t want to use that, just disconnected the hydraulic PS lines but keep the pump and pulley there for belt sake, will save you Idler pulley as well as new serpentine belt cost)).but will require a slight modification in power steering pump so that it doesn’t get jammed running without any oil in it.
Civic Si wiring: 120$
Si ECU+ Ignition key Optional =190$( not needed if you can tow your car to Honda dealership and match the new ECU with your old CRZ keys
Custom 2-2.5” exhaust=??
Headers OEM k24
Civic Si primary O2 sensor(Or you can use CRZ one,Yes it was done in a swap in Zf2 chassis in Malaysia and it worked) =120$
Secondary o2 sensor=Optional.
Radiator OEM (its more than enough, we have three k20,s and two 24 running with OEM crz radiators and are just fine, temperature remains 90-94 C.
Misc=IAT sensor, wiring grips (If you don’t want to use your Crz one’s)=50$,coolant 4L,oil etc
Spark plugs can use the ones that come with engine(k24 or k20,BKR7EIX) but I advise new: 35$
Tune: you can use any base TSX/Si map given in Flashpro calibrations
Honda dealership matching of your new immobilizer key and civic Si ecu=50$ ?
Intake: Can use that comes with new engine or just a short ram with K&N filter =50$
Cost:4600$
Swap shop labor if you don’t have engine stand=? 400-500$ ??(shops here cost 120$ for whole engine swap)
The purpose of this thread is to do almost all work as D.I.Y and at end if you don’t have engine stand to put the engine in/out than you can go to a shop to put engine in just in few hours.
As labor is not so cheap in some countries and they cost per hour bases, so purpose of this build is to get most work done before going to workshop for final engine swap.

Some of you may know me for my Honda Fit Hybrid k20 swap.
Here it is.
It had same LEA Mf6 engine of a CRZ and the wiring of it was copied from a k20 swap crz but was never documented in detail. To date the wiring of CRZ k20 is difficult but it is about to become real easy.
In Pakistan first k20 Crz wiring was done by electrician M.Anwar in 2013. It took him near 2 months to do so as at that time very little support was there about the swaps in modern OBDII cars, yet a hybrid. The fist CRZ was done using two ecu method. The OEM k20a ecu using kpro and a crz ecu.
2nd crz was done by using single ecu of Civic Si USA(2007-11). This method is superior as it has functional OBDII port and the gauge cluster, ABS etc works. Still no documentation was done.
3rd was my car.
here is the thread about its swap
Although I wanted to document the wiring in detail in that build but I failed to do so because it was really complex and i was a beginner in this field.
At that time I promised to myself that I will document it so that its easy enough to do as D.I.Y and the one doing swap is prepared for what is required and what problems he will/might face, like AC compressor hitting chassis and break booster hitting the engine, Radiator fans hitting the intake manifold etc. If you have an automatic CRZ than don’t worry either because I will document all the method from CVT to a manual conversion and it very easy because even in a manual crz you will have to use the new shifter of civic si/tsx and cables. so only thing remains for a cvt is to add a used clutch paddle from a Honda CRZ/Fit/jazz/City/Civic along with its respective cylinder. Conversion will not cost more than 200-300$.
So with no further delay lets start
In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful

English is not my language so I apologize for any spelling and grammar mistakes.

Special thanks to Mr.Anwar and Ustad Danish who helped me when I needed.
Here is crz I bought recently for the project. Its a 2010 MT.



Here is the k24 engine for swap






This thread will mainly focus on doing all the work prior to engine installation into engine bay. Goal is to swap k20/24 in just few hours.
There are some sensor grips and main wiring grip you need to buy. Its better if you have a junk yard nearby. If you want to use a k24, than you will have to change oil pressure sending unit, Knock sensor grip, Crank sensor grip.(All these can be used of your Crz engine, but if you plan to return your crz to stock in future and don’t want to use any of its parts than you will have to find these from a junkyard or ebay etc). You will need IAT sensor and its grip.(The crz uses MAF sensor which has IAT sensor integrated into it ,so you will have to buy it, I will give its details in sensor wiring section)
As JDM models don’t have Hill assist so at this time we don’t know if it poses any problem in a k20 swap crz which has it.
I will cover each section of build separately but emphasizing most on how to do wiring on your own.

Here are the link to quick navigate to the pages..
Sensors sweap and sensors wiring connectors modification and engine preperation depending upon engine Page 1
The new forum format has changed the page numbering so much.

Break booster,oil pump,HAsport mounts and instructions Page 2
Engine preperation,clutch,flywheel installation etc etc Page 3
Alternator and starter wiring,immoblizer,pinouts etc Page 4
Main wiring,vss wiring,O2 sensor wiring etc etc Page 5
Axles, halfshaft,Shifters and calble, engine swap and fuel lines and their adapter sizes, some wiring Page 6
Exhaust and gearbox modification Page7
Turbo k24 Sidewinder CRZ build Page 7 & 8
Page 9:
Turbo feed,retun,oil pan modification,fuel pump,fuel injecotrs(FIC 1000cc)
Page 10 The Return Fuel setup,FPR and Fuel Lines

I also have updated Dropbox folder regarding all the offline save of this build upto page 7 of this build.I advise download and save a copy of that becasue some time pictures get deleted from hosting sites.
Dropbox folder
Diagrams and pics
Select option 'Download" on top right corner and it will download as a Zip file.extract and open.its 128 mb download uptill now.
For motivation i have made a collection of videos.Enjoy ;)
Now presenting the Complete K-Swap guide in video series.
All the routes,k24 or k20 in a Honda CR-Z Zf1 chassis aswell as Zf2
Honda Fit Hybrid,Honda Fit GE,Fit GK or in modern Honda.
Save the money and labour.Learn to do it with yourself.
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Just want to say “Thank you” great work!
I have read your complete post.. several times. I own a 2013 CRZ Premium “Canadian Version”
Seems like the first stage in doing a kswap is choosing the correct ECU and wiring harness?
Considering I own a 2013 you suggest to go with a 2012-2015 Canadian civic si ECU and wiring harness?
If I decide I would like to run a K20z3 or a K24a2 will I still run the 9th gen (2012-2015si) harness and ECU
Lastly can you explain the differences between the 06-11si harness and ECU versus the 2012-2015si Harness and ECU.
THe main thing is to see if your car chassis is Zf1 or Zf2. for Zf1 2007-11 si ecu and harness will be used. For zf2 2013-15 will be used. but i have seen 2013 zf1 modles too. So the simplest way is to see if your CR-Z has S+ button or not. IF it has, use 2013-15 ECU and wiring. If not use 2007-11
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ITHe main thing is to see if your car chassis is Zf1 or Zf2. for Zf1 2007-11 si ecua nd harness will be used. For zf2 2013-15 will be used. but i have seen 2013 zf1 modles too. So the simplest way is to see if your CR-Z has S+ button or not. IF it has, use 2013-15 ECU and wiring. If not use 2007-11
Also Zf2 has a 49 pin connector at the ecu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also Zf2 has a 49 pin connector at the ecu.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes thats also a nice point. Actually i am covering Zf2 k-swap in another build,there i have put this info.Its better if you read that and ask quaries there so that people of Zf2 build may benefit
For motivation i have made a collection of videos.Enjoy. FLames and POPs at end of video ;)
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Thanks for the inspiration Nivek :) Car looks great! Your posts, pics, videos, etc are greatly appreciated!
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Thanks for the inspiration Nivek :) Car looks great! Your posts, pics, videos, etc are greatly appreciated!
Thanks a lot for appreciation. :)
Once the K-Swap video series guide is complete,i plan on building a k20 from bottom up and making near 700 hp K-RZ.
I can't decide should i make seperate post for that or post here
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Great write up, lots of good info, I am going to be putting a turbocharged k20Z1 in a Fit, shortly, What octane fuel was this tuned on?
No prognress on CR-Z because i have been busy working on my k24 Fit turbo project.Its also custom setup thats why taking so much time.
aka, Nivek, im also from Pakistan, Lahore, and do like to ask some technical questions regarding k20 to k24 thx
Hi there. long time since i updated this build. Now i am back with detailed 'How to turbo a K-Swapped CRZ/Fit' In this i will go in details about designing manifolds, Intercooler pipings, Fueling, PCV system,water cooling for turbo etc etc
1st episode is already out. i plan on positing one episode per week
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Detailed wiring diagrams & ECU pinouts video is below. A lot people ask me regularly in Dms about these. So i thought why not make a video. You can zoom in too.
Wiring Grip A Of CRZ

The wait is over guys.Lets start the main wiring.
1st we will modify the CRZ ECU wiring A grip according to Civic Si Grip A diagram.Make sense right? Because now the ECU being used will be Civic Si,so all wiring need to according to Si and not the CRZ ECU.
Down is the easy table for making changes in CRZ ECU-A plug wiring. The one with 'X' wire are not needed any more and you can remove them. The other need to change the location within this plug.
Do note that CRZ ZF2 and Fit GE and GK have 49 pin ecu plugs not 44. So in those you will use 2013+ Si wiring and ECU.







Now lets learn how to pin and de-pin.
I am holding the ECU-A white plug in my hand.1st you will need to unlock it by pushing a plastic tap.




Now you will need a sharp tool to insert into pin location to lift the pin holding cap. You can use a dental pick, or a safety pin. I took a small flat head screw driver and grinded its tip to make it pointed,

Or




Lift the lock and pull the same pin from opposite side gently.




Yaaaay you have completed plug-A conversion. Now lets modify the B and C plugs..
Just kidding.We dont need to change anything to B and C plugs :smile2: as they are already of Si wiring.
Abdul, you said here that, "Civic Si ecu. ECU part : 37820-RRB-A12 A14 is for auto.dont order that nor the A05.". This is a mistake. I know the 37820-RBB-A14 is from a 2011 Civic Si K20Z3 with 6M/T. This is what I used, and all from same donor car, engine was also complete with wiring harness. -A14 is okay, It is not for an automatic transmission. Search eBay and Internet and see this is so. Merle.
Abdul, You wrote in above post: "Civic Si ecu. ECU part : 37820-RRB-A12 A14 is for auto.dont order that nor the A05." This is a mistake if you are saying to don't order A14. I used A14 with my swap from donor car, a 2011 Civic 2dr Si K20Z3 6M/T with Navigation. It came with full engine harness still on engine, and the A14 ECU. Looking up at Hondapartsnow.com, the 37820-RRB-A14 replaces the 37820-RRB-A13 and 37820-RRB-A12 ECUs. The A14 ECU is definitely the correct one for manual transmission. I don't know about the A05 you mentioned. -Merle Schnick
Those are revisions of the PCM. A05 is older than A12 and that is older than A13.

SI was never sold as an automatic so there are no automatic transmission PCMs for that chassis code.
The height

As IMA battery is removed which is near 80Lb(36kg,yes i have weighted) so the rear is lifted and looks ugly.Almost 2 inch increase in rear height and half inch decrease in front height.


So use some lowering springs in rear or coilovers.
I had my Fit Tanabe Coform-R coilovers laying around so i used those. As the height is different so instead of shocks bottoming out i used spacers.










And here the K-RZ is ready




Do remember to do a clucth pedal adjustment.as its new engine and transmission now,so the engaging point might have changed. Also do remeber to do valve adjustments after 1st 1000 km
What size wheels/tires? Original CR-Z are 195/55R16 with 16" x 6" rims with 55mm offset, 5 (lug) x 114.3mm with 64.1mm center bore.
I want to use 225/45R17 with 17" x 7.5 to 8" rims with 35mm to 30mm offset and not staggered.
What size wheels/tires? Original CR-Z are 195/55R16 with 16" x 6" rims with 55mm offset, 5 (lug) x 114.3mm with 64.1mm center bore.
I want to use 225/45R17 with 17" x 7.5 to 8" rims with 35mm to 30mm offset and not staggered.
You will be fine. The tyres of CRZ in pics are 225/45 R17 x 7.5J with 38 mm offset. CRZ can fit even 255 with ease and not rub
Hi Nivek, I'm just curious how the engine can withstand 500hp without internal parts changed such as pistons and conrods etc? And I'm seeking your advice how to achieve 350++ hp on NA routes. Of course the cost saving way possibly. And in case of the turbo way, what's the safety boost level for both stock zf1 manual and k24a3 6speed for long terms heavy footer use? What's the injector capacity needed if using stock zf1 fuel pump for going turbo. I can still keep using zf1's fuel pump even I k-swapped a k24 and turboed it? I know it's alot of questions but you are the only one I wish to get the answers from. I'm owning a zf1 manual and planning to swap a cl9 k24 6 speed manual in it. And if you don't mind I hope can have your WhatsApp number because I might have many advises needed from you. I'm not going to diy the conversion as I don't have time for it. I can't also fully trusted the mechanics words as many of them are not that sincere. So I ends up here seeking for your advice.
Hi Nivek, I'm just curious how the engine can withstand 500hp without internal parts changed such as pistons and conrods etc? And I'm seeking your advice how to achieve 350++ hp on NA routes. Of course the cost saving way possibly. And in case of the turbo way, what's the safety boost level for both stock zf1 manual and k24a3 6speed for long terms heavy footer use? What's the injector capacity needed if using stock zf1 fuel pump for going turbo. I can still keep using zf1's fuel pump even I k-swapped a k24 and turboed it? I know it's alot of questions but you are the only one I wish to get the answers from. I'm owning a zf1 manual and planning to swap a cl9 k24 6 speed manual in it. And if you don't mind I hope can have your WhatsApp number because I might have many advises needed from you. I'm not going to diy the conversion as I don't have time for it. I can't also fully trusted the mechanics words as many of them are not that sincere. So I ends up here seeking for your advice.
K24a2a3 and k20 typre Rs can withstand 500 hp. thats near 440 WHP. BUT if the engine is relatively new, the piston rig gaps are not worn out yet so high boost can kill the rings. So if you buying a very old used engine than 500 hp is safe and if newer less used one than stick to 380-420 range and you will be fine.
Stock Zf1 fuel pump can support upto 320 hp.
350+ NA is very expensive and with higher lift cams the power will only come after 6000 rpm and to 8200 rpms. So not worth in a k24. Turbo is lot cheaper.
and with boost cut settings and using smaller spring in wastegate, turbo is also very safe.
i blown my built 300 hp NA k24 just by doing a mis-shift from 3-1 instead of 3-4 gear. So in NA setup you always have tpo rev higher and shift gears becoz power is only up there in top rpms. but in turbo power starts from 3500 rpm and all the way to top. I dont even have to hit vtec anymore at 5500 rpm becoz so much power even in low rpms for daily fun drive. after VTEC its an animal, safety hazard for pedisrtians( LOl trafic is not good in Pakistan, lot of pedistrians, bikers, rikshaws coming/going wrong ways).
So my advice use a small turbo like GTX 3071R with internal wastegate to make things simple.
about your question of stock zf1 engine limits, its near 200 hp. over that you will break the rods. been there done that also LOL
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