Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner

Abdul's k24 or k20 Swap build/Guide with Complete Wiring diagrams

193352 Views 136 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Nivek
4
Hello there, this is about swapping a k24 or k20 in a Crz. In this swap a k24a2/a3 is being swapped. Purpose to do a K24 swap is that it is a lot cheaper than k20 and has more torque and is at 200 Hp and has very much potential to go up in Hp range very easily, plus is boost friendly as it has 10.5:1 CR.
Until recently ( Nov 18,2017) HAsport only made mounts of K-swap(k20 only) for either Civic Si(k20z3) transmissions or DC5 ones which added to swap cost as they are very expensive. If you were to use a k24 block, you would still need a k20z3 or a K20 DC5/RSX-S transmissions. But now HAsport makes mounts for CRZ which support k24 transmissions (TSX 6 spd, Civic si 2012-2015).So now a complete k24 swap can be done in very less $$$$
Now presenting the video series which contains many new things,covers both k24 & k20 route.Also covers Zf1 & Zf2 aswell as Fit GE(2nd Gen) and Fit GK(3rd Gen).

Complete k swap guide part1
Estimated Project cost will be 4500-5000$.(Can go up depending upon labor of shop). This will be very feasible alternative to SC or Turbo kits available for Crz which cost from 3000-5000$
Costs:
Engine
k24a2/a3 with 6 spd manual transmission 1500$-2000$
Shifter & cables= 150$ https://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Honda-Civic-Si-Shifter-And-Shifter-Cables-OEM-K20z3-/282665373668?fits=Make:Honda|Model:Civic&hash=item41d02b4fe4:g:GeEAAOSwYyxZf5NL
HAsport Mounts for k24 (now they make them) 700$ (You have to mention k24 and its transmission type when placing order)
Flashpro/Ktuner: 700$/450$
Axles: 500$(HAsport crz for k24, tell them to ship the k24 ones as the k24 half shaft is longer than k20 )
Or you can buy Insane shaft axles which are rated for 500 hp ,I contacted them and they got data of axles from Hasport (Thanks Brian for sharing data for our sake).So now you can get those in 350$ instead of HAsport 500$ and more strong also than HAsport.
It has come into my information that stock k20z half shaft and axles are bolt ons. This engine comes in Civic Fd1(Malaysia) or you can search which alternate version internationally.
I have tried Insaneshaft axles in my Fit and both axles did't fit. So kindly contact Insaneshafts before buying that if axles dont fit they will return them back and refund you.

K20 idler pulley optional: 40$(If k24 have hydraulic Power Steering pump pulley and you don’t want to use that, just disconnected the hydraulic PS lines but keep the pump and pulley there for belt sake, will save you Idler pulley as well as new serpentine belt cost)).but will require a slight modification in power steering pump so that it doesn’t get jammed running without any oil in it.
Civic Si wiring: 120$
Si ECU+ Ignition key Optional =190$( not needed if you can tow your car to Honda dealership and match the new ECU with your old CRZ keys
Custom 2-2.5” exhaust=??
Headers OEM k24
Civic Si primary O2 sensor(Or you can use CRZ one,Yes it was done in a swap in Zf2 chassis in Malaysia and it worked) =120$
Secondary o2 sensor=Optional.
Radiator OEM (its more than enough, we have three k20,s and two 24 running with OEM crz radiators and are just fine, temperature remains 90-94 C.
Misc=IAT sensor, wiring grips (If you don’t want to use your Crz one’s)=50$,coolant 4L,oil etc
Spark plugs can use the ones that come with engine(k24 or k20,BKR7EIX) but I advise new: 35$
Tune: you can use any base TSX/Si map given in Flashpro calibrations
Honda dealership matching of your new immobilizer key and civic Si ecu=50$ ?
Intake: Can use that comes with new engine or just a short ram with K&N filter =50$
Cost:4600$
Swap shop labor if you don’t have engine stand=? 400-500$ ??(shops here cost 120$ for whole engine swap)
The purpose of this thread is to do almost all work as D.I.Y and at end if you don’t have engine stand to put the engine in/out than you can go to a shop to put engine in just in few hours.
As labor is not so cheap in some countries and they cost per hour bases, so purpose of this build is to get most work done before going to workshop for final engine swap.

Some of you may know me for my Honda Fit Hybrid k20 swap.
Here it is.
It had same LEA Mf6 engine of a CRZ and the wiring of it was copied from a k20 swap crz but was never documented in detail. To date the wiring of CRZ k20 is difficult but it is about to become real easy.
In Pakistan first k20 Crz wiring was done by electrician M.Anwar in 2013. It took him near 2 months to do so as at that time very little support was there about the swaps in modern OBDII cars, yet a hybrid. The fist CRZ was done using two ecu method. The OEM k20a ecu using kpro and a crz ecu.
2nd crz was done by using single ecu of Civic Si USA(2007-11). This method is superior as it has functional OBDII port and the gauge cluster, ABS etc works. Still no documentation was done.
3rd was my car.
here is the thread about its swap
Although I wanted to document the wiring in detail in that build but I failed to do so because it was really complex and i was a beginner in this field.
At that time I promised to myself that I will document it so that its easy enough to do as D.I.Y and the one doing swap is prepared for what is required and what problems he will/might face, like AC compressor hitting chassis and break booster hitting the engine, Radiator fans hitting the intake manifold etc. If you have an automatic CRZ than don’t worry either because I will document all the method from CVT to a manual conversion and it very easy because even in a manual crz you will have to use the new shifter of civic si/tsx and cables. so only thing remains for a cvt is to add a used clutch paddle from a Honda CRZ/Fit/jazz/City/Civic along with its respective cylinder. Conversion will not cost more than 200-300$.
So with no further delay lets start
In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious, the Most Merciful

English is not my language so I apologize for any spelling and grammar mistakes.

Special thanks to Mr.Anwar and Ustad Danish who helped me when I needed.
Here is crz I bought recently for the project. Its a 2010 MT.



Here is the k24 engine for swap






This thread will mainly focus on doing all the work prior to engine installation into engine bay. Goal is to swap k20/24 in just few hours.
There are some sensor grips and main wiring grip you need to buy. Its better if you have a junk yard nearby. If you want to use a k24, than you will have to change oil pressure sending unit, Knock sensor grip, Crank sensor grip.(All these can be used of your Crz engine, but if you plan to return your crz to stock in future and don’t want to use any of its parts than you will have to find these from a junkyard or ebay etc). You will need IAT sensor and its grip.(The crz uses MAF sensor which has IAT sensor integrated into it ,so you will have to buy it, I will give its details in sensor wiring section)
As JDM models don’t have Hill assist so at this time we don’t know if it poses any problem in a k20 swap crz which has it.
I will cover each section of build separately but emphasizing most on how to do wiring on your own.

Here are the link to quick navigate to the pages..
Sensors sweap and sensors wiring connectors modification and engine preperation depending upon engine Page 1
The new forum format has changed the page numbering so much.

Break booster,oil pump,HAsport mounts and instructions Page 2
Engine preperation,clutch,flywheel installation etc etc Page 3
Alternator and starter wiring,immoblizer,pinouts etc Page 4
Main wiring,vss wiring,O2 sensor wiring etc etc Page 5
Axles, halfshaft,Shifters and calble, engine swap and fuel lines and their adapter sizes, some wiring Page 6
Exhaust and gearbox modification Page7
Turbo k24 Sidewinder CRZ build Page 7 & 8
Page 9:
Turbo feed,retun,oil pan modification,fuel pump,fuel injecotrs(FIC 1000cc)
Page 10 The Return Fuel setup,FPR and Fuel Lines

I also have updated Dropbox folder regarding all the offline save of this build upto page 7 of this build.I advise download and save a copy of that becasue some time pictures get deleted from hosting sites.
Dropbox folder
Diagrams and pics
Select option 'Download" on top right corner and it will download as a Zip file.extract and open.its 128 mb download uptill now.
For motivation i have made a collection of videos.Enjoy ;)
Now presenting the Complete K-Swap guide in video series.
All the routes,k24 or k20 in a Honda CR-Z Zf1 chassis aswell as Zf2
Honda Fit Hybrid,Honda Fit GE,Fit GK or in modern Honda.
Save the money and labour.Learn to do it with yourself.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
101 - 120 of 137 Posts
19
Long time since i posted,because i was sorting out the fuel pressure drop at full boost.Atlast it has been sorted out.took a month by trying to figure out where was the hinderance to fuel feed.
The datalogues showed very lean AFR's at 1 bar boost and injectors were at 100% duty cycle at top.i was using AEm 310 LPH fuel pump and 1000 cc FIC injectors which should be fine near 800 hp but mine was near 400 hp+-.After raising fuel pressure still no avail.
Already i have a mechanical fuel guage in engine bay but could not see the fuel pressure inside the car while driving.So to figure this out i installed a digital fuel pressure guage inside car and which told the whole story.

The pressure dropped at full boost,from 4 bar to 1.5 bar.very lean under full boost (15.4 Afr,Thank God engine did't blow)
Initially i thought the OEM feed lines were smaller diameter inside.
The inner dia is 5.2mm(Equals -AN5). But outer fitting is 3/8(equals -AN8) which is should be near 9 mm. So that means Honda used thick plastic here which reduced inside diameter.


So i bought new PTFE -6An steel braided line and installed it from here to engine.(i thought the OEm feed lines have many bends in them so a staight line will help)


All way to engine bay,but still no benifit.


So next i searched and found that may be the OEM wiring is not thick enough so fuel pumps is not getting its desired ameres to fully pump the fuel.
Got a 12 AWG thick copper wire and passed all way from battery too fuel assembly.




I used a 4 prang relay,40 Amps, the digram used


OEM feed line cut. The wire end coming from ECU will join Relay 86 and the wire to the fuel pump will join realy 87. Number 30 of relay will join my new 12 awg wire. 85 is ground which i attached to rear seat belt bolt.also 12 awg thich copper wire here.


As the wiere from battery to relay was thick but still from relay to fuel pump was OEm thin wiere.so i added another wiere to it




Relay wired


Ground

Done.and tugged





But the promlem persisted.same fule pressure drop.
now i was frustrated. I thought my return(OEm EVAp) line is restrcition. So i drilled it to bigger bore.


Underside of my reutn line


Drilled with 6 mm bit


Aaaaaand still no benefit.same pressure drop.
I was thinking may be my fuel pump is not enough and i was ordering a 450 walbro. But online seaches showed 310 LPH pump should be good apto 800 hp.
Frustrated i opened the fuel assembly again to look may be some loose O-ring or some other season.
and by close imspection i found the OEM feed is quite complex.almost 180 bends and too many factors playing.and the fuel pump pumping in a closed space,not in a pipe

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
15
After removing the pump,lets cut the OEM feed mechanish and install a direct new feed line





New PTFE line


Installed on fuel pump.



Dont worry that the pump pump is held only by zip tie,there is a strong plastic plate underneath the fuel pump which holds it tight. I used zip tie to make it extra stable




Another view


Now lets open up the OEM fuel feed hole

Removed the check valve,(now i will have to be extra cautious of driving with near empty fuel tank)



Still frustrated that no factor should be un left now,i opned a hole saw hole under bottom where fuel filter will be.Now the fuel pump will not depend on this hole for feed,it will directly pick up under bottom of fuel tank.(no more worry of driving with low fuel tank)






After every thing is done.removed all extra parts in that closed OEm feed space,although now its does't matter as i have bypassed it.


Aaaaand i am so happy that fuel pressure is not dropping anymore.instead it rises with boost with 1:1 as it should be. The AFR were below 10. I had to tune and had to remove near 40% fuel and still duty cycle is only 48%. So i am so glad that the problem sorted out.

A pic during my self tuning session



So now that i have experimented all this.if i had to do this again.here what i will do in this order.
1. Use OEm feed lines,Oem EVAp line a s return.
2: Install fuel rail,injectors, FPR.
3:Open fule pump assembly,install feul pump and install a direct feed line by bypassing that Honda close fuel compartment altoghather.
4:drill out OEm EVAp (our return) to big hole
This should be enough to support near 600 Hp.
5: Remove the back check valve
6:Optional... Remove the underside plastic where fuel filter is
7 Optional :Upgrade fuel pump wiring.I think it was not needed in my case but now its done.(i have read that late honda models OEm wiring is quite enough).

So here we are.completing the fuel setup atlast.i am booking my time with dyno and tuner in next week may be. i am hoping near 550 hp.
i will keep posted InshaAllah.
and in future i may install oil cooler.That is the last on my mod list in this build.the oil temps are with in normal range now but i think when it will be 500+ hp,i may need seperate oil cooler.
Sorry about spelling mistakes as i have no time to prrof read.its getting so late and i had so busy day with all this stuff.very tired also.but was worth the effort ☺
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 3
Atlast dyno tuned. 4 port boost solenoid was giving problems controlling boost.So we stopped at 450 WHP,397 WTQ. Equals 511 BHP

Here is video of dyno
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Here is another with sounds and pops. K-series does sound amazing
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Forum is so less active since the new format
  • Like
Reactions: 1
No prognress on CR-Z because i have been busy working on my k24 Fit turbo project.Its also custom setup thats why taking so much time.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
14
I ordered some heat sleeves and thought the oil pressure and temperature sensors wires needed protection from heat as they are passing above exhaust manifold and wastegate.




To seal the thread i have found the epoxy works very well. you can use JB weld etc



Next from aliexpress i ordered and instelled Dual stage Boost controller. Its copy of turbosmart one but works just fine.People install them in engine bay which leads to rusitng and failure.i planned to install it in cabin.



Both low and high boost controls are in hand reach

This toggle switch shifgt it from low to high boost settings


i have set low at 350 hp and high at 500. with just flip of switch its shifts between two modes

It has a 'T' which has a spring and a ball. This helps turbo spool super quick. If you dont need such a quick spool,remove them. i have kept mine. i removed it 1st but boost was coming slow.now it feels much aggressive response.




I highly recommend this mode for high hp applications.because we have FWD car. High hp spins tyres. So for daily agressive/spirited drive low Hp (near 300-350) is best.It doest spin tyres so much. When on highway and in higher gears full 500 hp can be utelized

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Hey would the swap be any different if I used a 5 speed trans with the k24a2 ?
Hey would the swap be any different if I used a 5 speed trans with the k24a2 ?
No diffenret. I am using same setup now.both my cars have k24a2 with 5speed transmissions. 5 speeds have longer gear ratios which helps me because i have turbos.
Read my thread where i have covered in detail which 6 speed and 5speed trannies are compatible with HAsport mounts
No diffenret. I am using same setup now.both my cars have k24a2 with 5speed transmissions. 5 speeds have longer gear ratios which helps me because i have turbos.
Read my thread where i have covered in detail which 6 speed and 5speed trannies are compatible with HAsport mounts
Alright will do man thank you ?
Some one is doing a k24 swap in a ZF2 chassis in Malaysia. He needs a ZF2 ECU pin outs.
If anyone can provide and share it,it will be very helpful to next all ZF2 K-swaps.
i have searched everywhere but could not find it. Even Helm's manuals dont have it. It is supposed to be in "Service Manual". Helms have other manuals but dont have this
Regarding the fuel pump, I seen you mentioned an AEM pump which is a direct replacement. If I turbo the original L15 engine to a small 190hp, Do you think I would need to upgrade wiring like you have ?
Regarding the fuel pump, I seen you mentioned an AEM pump which is a direct replacement. If I turbo the original L15 engine to a small 190hp, Do you think I would need to upgrade wiring like you have ?
Absolutely no need. the stock pump and line support upto 250 hp easy. I am waiting for my fuel pump on my Honda Fit k24a2 Turbo,out of curiosity i have tuned it upto 8 psi on Gt3076 turbo on stock pump. that equals near 300+ hp easy. So you are very safe even upto 300 hp mark.no need to change the pump. Just use bigger injectors and you are good to go
  • Like
Reactions: 1
No one has given any feedback? If you guys find some difficulty in swapping or understanding some portions of swap,just ask away. Diagrams need more elaboration,wiring etc etc.just ask.
No one has given any feedback? If you guys find some difficulty in swapping or understanding some portions of swap,just ask away. Diagrams need more elaboration,wiring etc etc.just ask.
I guess a number of us still saving up for this project.

By the way, do you have any idea Civic FN2R and FD2R has the same ecu pinout as civic si 06-11's? I had a friend of mine did FN2R swap but I haven't got to see in detail.

Apart of that, I saw you did some modification on the sensor plug. Are you using K24A stock sensor working with the civic si ecu?
Some one is doing a k24 swap in a ZF2 chassis in Malaysia. He needs a ZF2 ECU pin outs.
If anyone can provide and share it, it will be very helpful to next all ZF2 K-swaps.
I have searched everywhere but could not find it. Even Helm's manuals don't have it. It is supposed to be in "Service Manual". Helms have other manuals but don't have this
Is the Zf2 ECU have 49 pins per plug. I have 2013 and just did a 9th gen si swap. I have the pin out.
Is the Zf2 ECU have 49 pins per plug. I have 2013 and just did a 9th gen si swap. I have the pin out.
Yes that would be helpful. Need ECU Plug-A of Zf2 and 2013 ECU Si Plug-A.
I pm you my email.Thanking in anticipation.
I will include those diagrams in wiring section.
Good new and many thanks to user M1keBr0wn
2013 CRZ(Zf2) and 2013 Si wiring diagrams have been added to wiring section.(Page3). and that post have more than 20 pictures so forum is not letting me edit and add them there. So i have shared them in dropbox folder there and here.Plus the main wiring diagram have also been improved.
Being really lazy and not reading the complete thread, is it possible to do a swap with no warning lights for the IMA system?
Good new and many thanks to user M1keBr0wn
2013 CRZ(Zf2) and 2013 Si wiring diagrams have been added to wiring section.(Page3). and that post have more than 20 pictures so forum is not letting me edit and add them there. So i have shared them in dropbox folder there and here.Plus the main wiring diagram have also been improved.
Just want to say “Thank you” great work!
I have read your complete post.. several times. I own a 2013 CRZ Premium “Canadian Version”
Seems like the first stage in doing a kswap is choosing the correct ECU and wiring harness?
Considering I own a 2013 you suggest to go with a 2012-2015 Canadian civic si ECU and wiring harness?
If I decide I would like to run a K20z3 or a K24a2 will I still run the 9th gen (2012-2015si) harness and ECU
Lastly can you explain the differences between the 06-11si harness and ECU versus the 2012-2015si Harness and ECU.
101 - 120 of 137 Posts
Top