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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wow, that is so bad! I def think I am going to save a couple bucks and going to do it myself. Haven't priced out the supplies yet, so i don't know if I will be spending less
 

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Capt'n Jack
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Wow, that is so bad! I def think I am going to save a couple bucks and going to do it myself. Haven't priced out the supplies yet, so i don't know if I will be spending less
70 bucks - Where at?
0w20 synth and good filter are quite a bit more expensive at the quick change places. But, you should be getting a 30-40 point service inspection along with it. Adds some value I guess.

Can have some value - Take it to the stealership service department and they take it out of sight in the back. You only hope it is done right and you get your 0W20 as opposed to a 5W20 dino and they really do everything they say.

Go to a quick lube such as Oil Can Henry's and you watch everything and they show you everything. Quick lubes don't yet carry 0w20 in the barrel so you can see em taking out 5 or so bottles of 0w20 and putting it in. You can see the 30 point inspection as they show you results. You can look at the oil filter etc. Can add value depending on your point of view.

Nothing replaces doing it your self. But, time can be money also.

I pay a bout 70. Actually a little more if I want them to use a oil filter I bring with me. (more = my cost of better filter).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, sadly $70 is expensive, but it runs pretty standard for most oil changes. When I did synth in my truck, it ran about that...

I will probably do it myself, but it really does add value (and make life easier) to have the dealer do it. I am a huge fan of having documented anything on cars
 

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Capt'n Jack
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How I miss Oil Can Henry's up there in the Northwest. Always had great service with those guys! :grin:
Yea, agree. My experience, they still do. For those not familiar - They also have the underlube cam going on so you can watch the tech drain and install filter :thumbsup: - and sometimes fumble with the skid plate on those models which have them. :cry:

If I am going to pay for the service as opposed to doing it myself - I much prefer to sit and watch and interact during the process and see/verify what is being done - showing me the airfilter, tranny lube condition, coolent condition, and all the other inspection points - than having someone drive it off into the garage, give it back to me and say they did everything I paid for. Maybe pay more of a premium for it. But.... Personal choice.
 

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:iough:

Honda oil filters are probably one of the best filters you can use on any engine... OEM filter is like $5 bucks at cost/emp price and like $7 if u buy them w/o a hookup... you can buy oil for like $20-$30 for a gallon (4qts)...

add those up and you're at about $40/oil change if you DIY...
 

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Capt'n Jack
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:iough:

Honda oil filters are probably one of the best filters you can use on any engine... OEM filter is like $5 bucks at cost/emp price and like $7 if u buy them w/o a hookup... you can buy oil for like $20-$30 for a gallon (4qts)...

add those up and you're at about $40/oil change if you DIY...
Yep. And when you think about it. Older cars with older oil tech really did need a change every 3K to 5K miles. If you use your maintenance minder on your Z, you may drive six months before you need to change out the oil. Longer periodicity makes it much cheaper than maybe it used to be - even though it may seem more expensive. And Greener.
 

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What is the oil change interval for the CR-Z according to the manual?
if it's anything like my Si was, it has more to do with mileage and the way you drive... ie: drive it hard, that gets factored in and the oil % drops faster... drive normal/softer and the % goes down like normal... what that "normal" is, i do not know :popcorn:
 

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I figured that it was the health of the oil. However, does it also calculate oil level into it as well or should I continue to check that manually?
well my Si had real :vtec: which some may know, burns oil... it wasn't bad... but it required 4.5 quarts of oil and about midway through my oil changes i would pour the remaining 0.5qts in there... then when i change it, it would be a little under 3.75qts that i drained... but i beat the crap out of my car lol...

for the CR-Z, i'd imagine it not having an issue with burning oil like that and you should be fine checking it manually just b/c that's the proper thing to do... if you do run into a situation where the oil gets too low, i'm certain it has an indicator light for that...
 

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Oil change is determined by the cars computer. However, with synthetic even if you have not hit the oil interval in a years time you should change it regardless and yes you should check your oil level on a regular basis- every other fill up is when I do mine.
 

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Yeah, its funny how most dealerships still put the 3K mile sticker on your windshield after an oil change... its like, don't you guys ever read your own company's recommendations?! I usaully just pray a little each time I drop off my car... that and hold on to each and every document.

But seriously, its just another way for the dealership to make money. Ford, Toyota, and Volkswagen all do the same thing, and they all use synthetic now!... (Manufacturer Recommendations: Ford @7.5K, Toyota @ least 5K, and Volkswagen @10K!... normal driving of course.)
 

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I went in at 4,900 miles and they put a new sticker on saying I should go at 9,900. I always thought that you should go 3,000 miles on an oil change and if it is synthetic then you could go about 4,000+.
Times have changed.
 
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