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After further inspection of the wires, they obviously made some slight differences as the "KEY 2" wire is now orange on mine, and the "ACC" red wire no longer has a label. I did see an "ACC" label red wire on a different harness, but it is not the one I need to use in the main power port. I'll update once I actually try to install it, I'll also make sure I check the headunit AMP settings once I plug everything in.
Please keep us posted on your progress. I have a Teyes CC3 on order with the same setup, 2012 Non-NAV with Sub. I would prefer to do the install myself, it doesn't seem too difficult.
 

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I have been wanting to upgrade my Navigation unit ever since the date and time stopped working correctly. I am glad to see everyone having so much success with this T’eyes unit. Did anyone purchase the optional backup camera or dash cam? If so do you like them?
 

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Hello looking for some help I was looking to buy the Sony ax 5000 system and put into 2014 with navi crutchfield doesn't seem like it's possible because the navigation system is different than the non-nav system. Anyone have any experience?
 

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I've received my Teyes CC3 and have most of the quirks sorted out. For those who have the Teyes installed, does your screen dim when you turn on your headlights? There doesn't seem to be an output for the illumination on the supplied main harness, although it might be handled by the canbus.

Edit: I simply pinned in an illumination wire that was omitted on the main harness. All works 100%
 

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Есть ли способ с этим, чтобы использовать кнопки громкой связи на руле и отключить модуль громкой связи?
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]
 

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After further inspection of the wires, they obviously made some slight differences as the "KEY 2" wire is now orange on mine, and the "ACC" red wire no longer has a label. I did see an "ACC" label red wire on a different harness, but it is not the one I need to use in the main power port. I'll update once I actually try to install it, I'll also make sure I check the headunit AMP settings once I plug everything in.
«KEY 2» Orange is used to connect the multifunction control buttons,For that you need pin 13 on the 28 pin HFL control unit, as described above. You can then connect that also to "Key 1"
 

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I had this unit installed today by my usual installer. He got everything working except the connection to turn on the back up camera when putting it in reverse. I'd consider it a 90% complete install. There was a lot of modifying the bezel to get the hazard button and abs light to fit.

I was messaging someone on here about the to's and froe's of getting this thing working. I can't see any messages from him on here and I'm searching my emails but I haven't found anything.

Is there a mod that needs to be done to get the reverse selection to power on the camera?
 

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2011 EX CVT
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For future reference here is a reddit post about a hazard plug 3D print I designed so nobody would have to cut the facia. It might require obtaining a different button-top for your hazard switch depending on what model you have but it'll fit snug. https://www.reddit.com/r/crz/comments/zme15g
Oh - and for the reverse selection I can post an additional comment (or edit) tomorrow regarding my solution to that with pictures. It was actually relatively simple! No splicing into OEM harnesses either.
 

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2011 EX CVT
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I've received my Teyes CC3 and have most of the quirks sorted out. For those who have the Teyes installed, does your screen dim when you turn on your headlights? There doesn't seem to be an output for the illumination on the supplied main harness, although it might be handled by the canbus.

Edit: I simply pinned in an illumination wire that was omitted on the main harness. All works 100%
Doing the same to mine now... It looks like that function is 'supposed' to be controlled by the CANBUS. Just like the reverse wire, that doesn't actually happen. I'll bring this up with dan teyes since I've been pestering him with other issues already. I'll post something for other users to DIY if it turns out to be easy.

Just another reason for me to continue trying to convince dan to make a custom harness for the CR-Z 😆
 

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Well that wasn't so bad. Less than an hour's worth of time gets you a function that should have been there in the first place.
All things considered it was pretty easy and I used the stuff they already provided.
For anyone else that wants to DIY their harness to fix the illumination control wiring here is some help:

! Overcomplicated Guide

Requirements:
  • Less than an hour's worth of time
  • Some sort of small metal pick tool to help push away small metal pieces (image below)
  • Solder + soldering iron (though technically you could just mash the leads together and call it a day)
  • CANBUS harness
  • non-CANBUS harness (to harvest the wires + metal leads)
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*Marks optional
It Begins:
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To begin, you will be removing the pin from the non-CANBUS harness to use. Locate the pin circled in blue. It should lead to an orange wire.
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Insert something thin below the pin, and try to push upwards towards the pin. What you are doing is bending two little metal 'hooks' so that you may safely remove the pin. If you look into the empty hole depicted beneath, you will see how the pin is held in.
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You can see in this picture the metal that was bent. Bend it back unless you want your pin to fall out. I just used a small flathead screwdriver bit.

It's okay to cut the orange wire to detach it from the black plug. If you really want to be like me and have a hard time, just cut the wire or continue following the next step.
*You should easily be able to tell that the other end of your now loose pin leads to the black plug. Look into the plug and familiarize yourself with what you're working with.
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*Go ahead and use your pick tool now. Hopefully you found one that is small and sturdy. Small enough to fit all the way down into the 'bottom' of this plug. Insert the tool as far as you can down the middle and push towards the plug you will be removing. You will essentially be bending the metal piece past whatever plastic hook it has latched on to. OR you can just clip off the wire but with how thin it is, I can't guarantee a strong connection. I personally like to work off of what is already there.
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*Now, on your ACTUAL harness, go to this white plug (it leads to your CANBUS). Locate the wire. Use your pick tool and simply press down on the metal where is shown in this picture. It's actually really simple to remove this if you just apply a light tug while pushing the metal down.
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*Now
, it's just as simple as inserting the pin to your ACTUAL harness (double check your orientation). If it does not fit snug, then double check to make sure you bent the metal back into place. Also verify that the pin is not bent once inserted.
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*Now take the now loose orange wires from your ACTUAL harness and fasten them together in your own preferred ways. As mentioned, you can either take your metal and mash it together, or you can solder it like I did. It's just connecting two wires together - you don't have to be too creative. Feel free to be safe and cover the exposed metal with shrink tube or electrical tape.
Zip-tie everything down all organized and neat if you don't want to risk wires tangling / sliding around.

You're done! Don't forget to toggle OFF the manual backlight control in your settings. I hope this was helpful.
 
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