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Is a pain installation but is worth it. Teyes CC3 is freaking awesome!!!!!!!!!! I saw an video and figure out to completely eliminate speakers popping noise. Blue wire label KEY2 is the AMP wire, see picture. By putting in SPST ON/OFF switch to manually delay the AMP from turning ON together with the Teyes.

ON:
TEYES ON wait a second AMP SWITCH ON

OFF:
AMP SWITCH OFF wait a second TEYES OFF

One problem resolved one more to go. We'll see if Teyes Power Filter eliminate the hissing sound.




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Don't buy Teyes Power Filter! Buy this "The Install Bay IBLOC01 Stereo 40W Adjustable Level Converter Hi-Low"
It will eliminate the hissing sound. The Teyes harness that plug into CC3 have high level signal + the CR-Z OEM Pioneer AMP boost the speaker hissing sound. The Install Bay IBLOC01 RCA Converter from Hi to Low signal. The hissing is still there but is so low you wouldn't hear it from the speakers. I would recommend above mention installed AMP Switch. Without it there is still a low speakers POP sound.




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Whenever you amplify a signal more than once there is a possibility you will get noise as you are amplifying the noise too, you want only one amplification of the signal. Either use the amplifier in the head unit and bypass/remove the OEM separate amplifier, or use the line out ports on the head unit and keep the OEM amplifier. This is just basics of audio. You can also get noise if you are not careful as to what wires are near each other and what quality your connections are. In some cases, you may need a filter added to the lines. You also have to make sure power and signal lines are not near each other.

In the CR-Zs with the subwoofer there is a separate amplifier and I believe this is the issue in the cases of these members with noise.
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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2011 CR-Z EX NAV Pioneer AMP and Subwoofer. My installation was a pain. By using the AMP switch and "Install Bay IBLOC01" all noises eliminated.
I have a 2011 EX without NAV, so hopefully my installation will be much easier, at least that's what I've read.
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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I currently have the Teyes CC3 128gb headunit ready to be installed, but I have a few questions. Does the Handsfree Link connect to the headunit with bluetooth, or does the headunit itself replace our Handsfree Link? Also, besides the obvious plug and play wires, which wires require splicing together just to be completely clear? I'm reading here that 2 blue wires need to be connected, the AMP CON wire and KEY 2?
 

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CRZ Handsfree Link system does not work. Connect your phone to Teyes via Bluetooth. It works perfect except no voice control. Teyes Voice control is very buggy. Just do Teyes touch screen for phone calls. When you receive SMS on your phone it also pop up on Teyes. Do not touch OFF when SMS pop up on Teyes screen. Then you need to go to Teyes Phone setting to turn ON SMS on screen. Connect KEY2 Blue wire together with ACC Red Wire for Audio.

 

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CRZ Handsfree Link system does not work. Connect your phone to Teyes via Bluetooth. It works perfect except no voice control. Teyes Voice control is very buggy. Just do Teyes touch screen for phone calls. When you receive SMS on your phone it also pop up on Teyes. Do not touch OFF when SMS pop up on Teyes screen. Then you need to go to Teyes Phone setting to turn ON SMS on screen. Connect KEY2 Blue wire together with ACC Red Wire for Audio.

Is there a way with this one to use the hands free buttons on the steering wheel and disable the hands free module?
 

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I don't have one and was wondering if any of the other members that did install this were able to use the buttons on the steering wheel to control the phone functions of this radio. I thought I read you just have to tap the buttons with 2 specific wires from this radio. I was trying to confirm if that worked.

This is perfect question for Teyes Support. If you found out post it.
 

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SWC doesn't work because the extra CRZ left over plugs are not connected to Teyes. One of those plugs are for the CRZ hands free link and voice control. Teyes instructions say if SWC working DO NOT UPDATE CANBUS. It will cause ADVERSE EFFECT to Teyes Head Unit and SWC.
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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364 Posts
I had the non nav and all that needs to be done is connect the keys2 with the acc red wire coming from the main harness into the headunit, to get sound. The steering wheel controls are really basic install of the canbus box and then in the headunit you put the vehicle model, but instead use the crv 2012.
I've been reading all the comments here for which wires to connect, I'm going to start off with what @Vferroni has said since he also has the Non Nav CR-Z. Interestingly enough, Teyes provided me with the wires but this time the "KEY2" wire is orange instead of blue, guess they changed that recently. So, I'll be connecting the orange "KEY2" wire from the main power set of wires to the "ACC" red wire on the other. But do I need to connect the blue "AMP CON" or "AMP TURN" wires to anything? Remember, I have a 2011 Non Nav EX.

The other 2 connections that were set up differently from what I have read here was from @David Pollo and @Stan Dallas . I believe you both have the Nav version CR-Zs, and both are 2013+ year models, correct?
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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I Connect KEY2 Blue wire together with ACC Red Wire for Audio. I'm not responsible for your connections. Is best to ask for professional help.
It's fine, I've done wire work before, this is simple enough. I just needed to know exactly which wire connections people have made with nav and non nav models.
 

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Yes have fun I enjoy working on my Z. Trial and error that's what I do. There is no comparation to the Teyes CC3, just like having a big Tablet factory built seamlessly attached to the dash. I wish the Z SWC Hands Free Link buttons work. Is 99.99% perfect cannot ask for more.
 

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2011 Honda CR-Z EX (CVT)
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After further inspection of the wires, they obviously made some slight differences as the "KEY 2" wire is now orange on mine, and the "ACC" red wire no longer has a label. I did see an "ACC" label red wire on a different harness, but it is not the one I need to use in the main power port. I'll update once I actually try to install it, I'll also make sure I check the headunit AMP settings once I plug everything in.
 
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