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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed a lot of IMA repair activity going on the forums in the past few months. Trying to collect all the info & options.

2013 EX w/ 66k miles
I have not gone to the dealer to fully diagnose but my reader shows the P0B3B fault code. Happened one afternoon last week after leaving a grocery store (so warm start). Forced to use the starter to get the engine on, IMA light & "check charging system" notification. Checked 12v, removed neg terminal for a few minutes. Car started normal afterwards but only ONCE then the next start have the same code. ECU reset does nothing anymore as the code immediately comes back.

Bought November 2013 so the 8y/100k warranty on the battery is out (by just 7 months) I don't think Honda would honor it.

From what I gather I can:
  • Pull the battery & replace the faulty control module, but that requires skilled work and finding a replacement part that is only sold as used (not guaranteed to fix)
  • Replacing the battery pack entirely, less skilled work but seems that most aftermarket batteries are for 2010-2012 only
  • Get new replacement of battery pack from honda dealer, but will probably cost more than the car is worth (KBB $8K) which is usually a bad move
I'm competent in removing parts as long as I can safely discharge the battery (even with the error it shows six of eight bars on the battery charge)
Would rather not get into a new car loan especially with the way auto market is recently. Plus I would drive this car forever if I could.
 

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Def put as much pressure on Honda/dealer as you can for some goodwill. Write to Honda USA etc.

Read all the recent threads on here about this PITA code. (It can fixed though...)
We have done a lot of work on it recently and there is an enormous amount of information posted on here.

My thoughts/options.

1) Push for goodwill.

2) Investigate pack for rodents or bad connections. $

3) Get a replacement BMS circuit board $$ and swap it out. (Note the HDS may misidentify the faulty board):rolleyes:

4) Get a breakers yard Lithium CR-Z pack $$$$ and swap out the whole thing.

5) Get a breakers yard Nimh CR-Z or Insight G2 pack $$, cycle it to bring it back to life and put that in it. (Possibly build my error light killer as well) ;)

@Uzair Mir and @arsenios228 might also see this and chip in..
They have both had this fault recently.


Note you do not discharge the IMA battery when removing/disassembling it.
You just turn it all off, wear rubber gloves, use insulated tools and don't short stuff out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
FL is not a CARB state so I believe 8yr max
Goodwill is hard to find in South Florida but I will try my best puppy eyes
Will attempt tomorrow if not this afternoon


@PeterPerkins lifted the trunk panel and saw no signs of vermin
Replacing a BMS board with a used advisable? I did read on the D module misread vs A module but cannot find any sold as new
Junkyard lithium pack, I have not ventured into, but I can swap it for a NiMH pack? Bumbleebee Batteries led me to believe it was not compatible (I'd gladly pay $2k for a fresh new battery pack from them to keep this car running if nothing else)
 
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Do lots of reading on here now to get up to speed with stuff.



 

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Hey @Slycat, Welcome to the P0B3B club, :p
From My experience of last couple of months, the first thing you need to do is you need to identify which board is faulty.

There are two cases for a D Board failure and two cases of C board failure (including me) that is documented here in this forum.
  • For a D Board failure, fortunately Error is successfully fixed by replacing A board in both cases. (HDS misidentified the faulty board as peter mentioned).
  • For a C board failure we still do no know, the other person did not updated the thread and My error did not fixed by replacing C board, We are expecting the HDS is also misidentifying in this case too and its actually a D Board that need replacement but I could not get a hold on a spare D board as of yet.
Apart from the threads Peter shared above you can read some Data here in this thread too
IMA issues .. highly recommend peter Perkins | Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums (crzforum.com)

- The other solution that you have, which Im using right now is replacing the whole battery with older NiMH Pack (at your own risk obviously).
It still gives the IMA error in the dash (which you can remove by using Peter's CAN Fooler Device) and S+ button is not working but other then that car is running fine.
12v is charging, all modes working etc.. The process is documented extensively in the thread Peter shared above.

Whatever you do please don't forget to update the thread for others. Good luck :)
 

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Its strange though why is this error started to pop out now soo frequently in 2013s, Never heard or read about it just few months ago. I wonder if we are doing something wrong or just that our battery pack's time is up. :( im sure @PeterPerkins will be able to answer someday when he has time.
 

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It's not a problem directly with the battery cells themselves, it's a problem with the BMS system.
Nothing you do with normal driving can probably have much influence.

Maybe there is some correlation with heat/hot climates/temperature and failures. :unsure:
Someone can pull all the examples together and do some analysis.
Perhaps each person who has had a failure can comment on the exact circumstances, weather, drive, temperature etc that accompanied the failure.
We would need every little detail they can remember for analysis.

Maybe if the car is driven very hard or in extreme temps and parked heat soak damages a board?
Very difficult to pin down..
 

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I have not gone to the dealer to fully diagnose but my reader shows the P0B3B fault code.
Well we now need to know the board number/letter that has failed. I do have access to some spares.
I would want to see a screen capture/picture of the HDS diagnostic screen showing the IMA data list/DTC etc to give a recommendation on which ones to swap.
In particular we need to see the 4 boards listed in the HDS details.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
@Uzair Mir Wish I could say "happy to be a member" but...
I was reading into the lithium to NiMH option but I have not ventured into finding a source for one besides a new one from Bumblebee Batteries. Losing the S+ feature is not a total loss for a commuter car.

@PeterPerkins I should have a chance to drop the car off tomorrow, just had the 12v charged to be sure it gets me there. I will request HDS results when they check it. I am still on the beg step of the plan.

I promise to keep this thread updated for record keeping.

EDIT: Service center confirms warranty period exceeded, escalating to American Honda. While on the phone with manager they read out some info from the HDS-DTC results and mentioned "battery voltage sensor bad" but was unable to specify which board/module. I'll get the details of it when I pick up the car (after warranty dispute)
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: no luck with American Honda over the phone so I was going to pick up the car and refuse the repair. When I got there my service rep introduced me to a Honda rep who was visiting that day. Took the opportunity to finesse my situation into the conversation. Whether it was luck or not I am not sure but the rep spoke with the service manager a day later and my replacement "box set" is being covered by Honda and I only pay for the labor at warranty rate. Figured it was the best option to get a whole new battery vs. just a new BMS board.

I was too distracted at the time to request a copy of the HDS-DTC results after that but I will remember when I pick up the car.
 
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