[Yttraeus_Ark]

So I managed to total my last cr-z in an unfortunate accident.
Looking to get a new one.
And I have a lot of plans for the long run.
I did my fare share of research and basically found I should avoid 2013 and onward if I wanna k swap it.
Entirely theoretical question tho:
In interest of weight saving; would it be easier to k swap a 2013 or k swap and then get a 2013 battery for the 2012.

 

[Fediej]

So I managed to total my last cr-z in an unfortunate accident.
Looking to get a new one.
And I have a lot of plans for the long run.
I did my fare share of research and basically found I should avoid 2013 and onward if I wanna k swap it.

Outside of an older model possibly being purchased cheaper, What reasons do you have for this conclusion?

Entirely theoretical question tho:
In interest of weight saving; would it be easier to k swap a 2013 or k swap and then get a 2013 battery for the 2012.

If you're gutting the car to K-swap, it makes no difference, you won't be using the battery from either year. Unless you mean the underhood 12-volt, and even then you'll probably want something with a few more cranking amps than the tiny Z battery.

 

[Spdbump]

As you just wrecked the car you mentioned first 7 months ago do you really need more power? Just kidding but if you are K-swapping as Fediej states it does not matter what year car the new car is. if you K-Swap you will be removing all of the IMA system including the battery too so that is irrelevant.

It seems very expensive to K-swap and I really don't understand the appeal of it. Most of the reason I bought The Speed Bump was because of the Economy and uniqueness of the power train. My other consideration was the low cost of purchase and ownership. But I presume I am atypical to most of the members here. Don't you have a lot of legal issues with an engine swapped car in most areas?

From all the postings on here it seems once K-Swapped some owners do not keep the car long after the work or they barely drive them. The more modification the less time they seem to own it or use it. Look at Rustbuckets story. The ending was sad all that work just to dispose of it.

If you are just going to get another CR-Z find the best one you can and downgrading the battery makes no sense especially if you are going to K-Swap. See @PeterPerkins postings as mentioned in your other thread. IMO don't get a base the headlights are better on the EX and above. You can only buy what is available. Please review What To Look For When Buying A CRZ?

Remember this was a car sold from 2011 to 2016 was low production, Niche, and due to all that not many were ever available and in the US less Mts were sold than CVTs and if you want to have the most Forced induction options you want an MT.

I love the Speed Bump but if I were to lose it I am not sure what I would buy to replace it. So many new vehicles available now that did not exist when CR-Zs were new. Every time I have bought a car I evaluate everything that is available no matter what it is who makes it etc that is how I ended up with the CR-Z to replace my Grand Prix GTP Coupe.

Good luck getting new wheels that you love.

 

[Yttraeus_Ark]

Outside of an older model possibly being purchased cheaper, What reasons do you have for this conclusion?

If you're gutting the car to K-swap, it makes no difference, you won't be using the battery from either year. Unless you mean the underhood 12-volt, and even then you'll probably want something with a few more cranking amps than the tiny Z battery.

I plan on getting a set of orbis ring drives. So I will need a battery pack.
Also just based on what I read the 2011-2012 model cr-z is supposed to be easiest to k swap.
Just tryina cut down on stress when the time comes.

 

[Yttraeus_Ark]

As you just wrecked the car you mentioned first 7 months ago do you really need more power? Just kidding but if you are K-swapping as Fediej states it does not matter what year car the new car is. if you K-Swap you will be removing all of the IMA system including the battery too so that is irrelevant.

It seems very expensive to K-swap and I really don't understand the appeal of it. Most of the reason I bought The Speed Bump was because of the Economy and uniqueness of the power train. My other consideration was the low cost of purchase and ownership. But I presume I am atypical to most of the members here. Don't you have a lot of legal issues with an engine swapped car in most areas?

From all the postings on here it seems once K-Swapped some owners do not keep the car long after the work or they barely drive them. The more modification the less time they seem to own it or use it. Look at Rustbuckets story. The ending was sad all that work just to dispose of it.

If you are just going to get another CR-Z find the best one you can and downgrading the battery makes no sense especially if you are going to K-Swap. See @PeterPerkins postings as mentioned in your other thread. IMO don't get a base the headlights are better on the EX and above. You can only buy what is available. Please review What To Look For When Buying A CRZ?

Remember this was a car sold from 2011 to 2016 was low production, Niche, and due to all that not many were ever available and in the US less Mts were sold than CVTs and if you want to have the most Forced induction options you want an MT.

I love the Speed Bump but if I were to lose it I am not sure what I would buy to replace it. So many new vehicles available now that did not exist when CR-Zs were new. Every time I have bought a car I evaluate everything that is available no matter what it is who makes it etc that is how I ended up with the CR-Z to replace my Grand Prix GTP Coupe.

Good luck getting new wheels that you love.

Like I said to the other comment. I plan on getting a set of orbis ring drives for it, so I will need a battery pack. Also not tryina downgrade. Tryina upgrade from the lead acid in a 2011-2012 to the lithium in the 13+
Prolly should mentioned that in the original post.

Also accident wasn't from hooning like an idiot. My abs fuse blew and I was omw to take a friend home from work before stopping in at the local auto zone for a new fuse. Old lady was backing out of her driveway around a blind corner and stopped in the middle of the lane in a 55mph zone. No one got hurt thankfully but I ended up dodging her and drifting Into a tree.

 

[Fediej]

The 12 volt under hood battery is lead acid.
OG hybrid battery is Nickel Metal Hydride iirc.
And the later years are lithium Polymer.