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All cars are sold as is. It is the buyers responsibility to research the car and see what issues it has. He stated he got it very cheap and it runs. being a crash damaged and repaired car of course it is going to have issues. If the current owner wants the fog lights restored we have provided the part numbers and what will be needed to do that. He is not interested. I would be more concerned with the lighting issue which maybe just a bad bulb, ballast or wiring.

It was an auction car and most used cars of that year are over $5k he paid half that and it drives. All the rest is minor.

No used car is perfect and is 1 of 1.
It doesn't need to be perfect. I should have added something that I took off my reply to you. If something as minor as an improper replacement bumper was done there can be bigger issues lurking like the lighting issue. I am not trying to put blame on the OP as he didn't know and hopped on a great deal.
 

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It comes down to we are trying to assist him with the current condition of the car, everything else is irrelevant. You (or the OP) have to deal with what is, not what was or what it should have been or could have been.

Key point is it is a running driving car with minor issues that need to be repaired. All non new cars are one of one with issues ranging from minor to major and you do the best you can.

Even my one owner bought brand new car has some minor issues which I am working to resolve. This is all part of car ownership.

Lets stay on topic and if asked help troubleshoot and repair the issues he wishes to resolve. Once all the issues are resolved, if he wants advice on changes, upgrades, alternative parts etc I am sure we can assist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Yeah, I do not have the LED strip in my light. I also have no desire to pay $150 plus to have fog, Unless the addition of fogs clears the DRL fault. Oklahoma sees little to no fog.
The local honda dealer is looking into the locks not working. So far they stated that an aftermarket alarm was wired in at one time and the passenger actuator is broken.

I pulled the Hybrid battery cooling fan and bench tested it, the multi-phase controller was fried. I ordered a new one and turned the hybrid battery off for now.
 

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Others have had actuators fail. Make sure all remnants of the aftermarket alarm have been removed that may have some how been wired to the headlights but do not see how or why. If not the headlights possibly to the door actuators and maybe windows etc. Hopefully any damage caused by the alarm can be reversed and make the car stock again. Aftermarket alarms are a major problem especially if installed poorly.

IMO you do not have a DRL fault that has anything to do with the fogs they are a separate switch and they are related only when going from DRL/Low beam to high beam. Just make sure the Fog light switch is off. For testing the DRLs make sure the headlight switch is off and it is daytime. Try swapping the high beam bulbs from one side to the other as I stated earlier and see if the issue follows the bulb or stays to the same side. If it is on the same side it is a wiring issue if it moves it is the bulb. Spend the money to replace both bulbs. When you remove the bulbs look for damage to the sockets especially if the issue does not move.

The fan for the IMA is a known issue. Glad you were able order one.

Keep us informed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
So Honda said the in cabin fuse box has a internal fault which is breaking the door unlock/lock signal the ECU is sending out. The fuse box (MICU) is $1300 from Honda. Looks like I'll just have manual locks.
 

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Probably. Dealers are going to have a fairly large markup. Just had a look and yes the MICU is just called fuse box in the parts list. There are two part numbers listed. Probably a revision that happened and updated the part number. Hondapartsnow . Com has it for even a bit less than you listed.

But keep in mind the MICU is part of the immobilizer system and will require an HDS or similar scan tool to reprogram the immobilizer system. Locksmiths and independent repair shops typically have the required scan tool.
 

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Others have had to replace the actual fuse box not the MICU to solve issues see @HondaHolly s threads on that and others. A good source for used is https://www.redlineautoparts.com/honda-cr-z/

Also since the car in its past had an aftermarket alarm (supposedly) depending on how intrusively that alarm was installed there could be all kinds of damaged wiring . If you are lucky you can replace just the fuse box/block(s) if you are Unlucky it fried MICU. Do the actuator(s) now work when you hit the switch?

Dealers tend to want to just swap parts in systems no matter the cost. You may need an electrical specialist (but it maybe what they are saying) or there maybe a less expensive fix possible. I had a car with all kinds of electrical issues some caused by a dealer installed alarm others caused by a bad choice on the transporter( car was badly secured inside a moving truck for a cross country move and it bounced the whole trip) but ultimately the car went to an electrical specialist and the repairs were less expensive than what the dealer proposed because they were able to repair things rather than replacing them.

Comes down to how much do you want to spend and how important to you each issue is other than things that make the car unsafe or unreliable. Others have had door locking issues where they could not lock or unlock the hatch or the door(s) and had to replace the door actuator. The hatch issue I presumed it was the latch and switch for the hatch, it turned out it was a bad passenger side actuator so based on that =report it could be something you do not think is related but ends up being related.
 

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In this thread @HondaHolly talked about replacing just the fuse box. That was why I thought it was a separate part that can be replaced and not part of the programming of the car. later in that thread it talks about the MICU being attached to the back of the fuse box so theoretically you could replace one without the other.

The fuse box is the MICU. They are one and the same.
 

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Well that is interesting just wondering if separable but made to be a unit (single very expensive part number). @HondaHolly bought a used one( fuse box ) for $100 maybe she got a deal and it was complete with the MICU or if there is a way to separate the 2 parts. Sometimes with some careful inspection and knowledge you can replace sub assmblies that are usually not able to be separated. We have had a few members do that for parts of the ABS system or pressure switch for the A/C.

Either way that is a very expensive part from a dealer.

 

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No it is not. The MICU is two circuit boards inside the fuse box that are soldered to the 100 or so contacts that make up the plugs and fuse holders. Lots of surface mount components and a CPU.

I happen to have one sitting on my desk in pieces for a tear down. Dumped the rom off the eeprom to send to someone having issues. Pretty common for Honda MICUs of this era to have eeprom issues and lose their memory. If you have the tools for reflow soldering and eeprom writing then yeah you could probably do component level swapping. At that point the $600 from Honda is probably a better deal for the average person.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
No, the internal lock switch does not work either. The dealer said he pulled the door card and the actuator would work if given a direct power signal. So he tracked the signal from the ECU to where it would stop and it was the MICU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
To my luck, Redline had a in cabin fuse box that was only $135 BUT it was for manual trans only.
 

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Car-part . Com has a number of them listed. Most of those wrecking yards will ship. It is under fuse box (cabin). A number of them are CVT models.
 
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