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You removed HID low beams, Halogen High beams and replaced with all LED? How did you solve the way the High beams are dimmed when used as a DRL? Is the beam pattern the same as before the conversion? I bought the EX because of the HIDs. Not to mention as we found out earlier LED headlights in the US are illegal. For the OP the issue is getting all the stock stuff to work properly and be the same brightness on both sides.

I hope it is just a bulb issue.

I have a 2011 and I recently went a full LED setup with no error, headlights are the older version without the DRL LED strip on the bottom. It was difficult to find a LED bulb that can act as the DRL/highbeam at the same time but I managed to find the right product. If there are any questions about it I may be able to help.
Edit: I also had previously spliced resistors into the DRL/highbeams.
 

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I have a 2011 and I recently went a full LED setup with no error, headlights are the older version without the DRL LED strip on the bottom. It was difficult to find a LED bulb that can act as the DRL/highbeam at the same time but I managed to find the right product. If there are any questions about it I may be able to help.
Edit: I also had previously spliced resistors into the DRL/highbeams.
Which LED did you use for your high beam bulb? I did the VLEDs Micro Extreme to get the highest output possible on the high beam. They needed to be customized a little to match the odd 45 degree clocking of the bulb that the CR-Z has to make the optimal beam pattern. The base on the VLEDs was adjustable but in fixed 90 degree increments.
 

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As it is an EX with a fog light switch we do not know what is there or missing as far as the brackets. I tried to find the brackets separately but not available outside the kit but someone may be able to fabricate something. I did for my driving lights on a previous car using strips of thick aluminum( all I had in stock) and very big bolts and nuts into my radiator bottom support.

I presume the brackets mount to the bumper support and that trim mounts in front of that so being a car that had an accident the brackets might still be there as the brackets have nothing to do with the garnish as far as I can tell from the lousy diagrams online. But I have never had my bumper off to see how the parts are attached in that area.

He has already said he has no interest in the fog lights it is more important to have the headlights working correctly.

Brackets are mounted to the bumper. Highly doubt they are present. The non fog light panels likely do not have the mounting bosses for the brackets.
 

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The brackets are mounted to the bumper cover. When you remove the bumper cover you unplug the fog lights and they go with the bumper cover. It is in the FSM and I have also had my bumper cover off a number of times and also replaced the fog lamp assemblies.
 

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Well, then getting the brackets might be difficult but he may or may not have clips and holes since it has had a bumper cover change. All I saw mentioned was some screws not sure if they are going into the plastic or if there is a threaded something that is part of the assembly or self tapping or a nut on the back. Does the braket attach to the Garnish or the bumper cover? I presumed the bumper cover above the hole for the light to allow aiming.
 

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Plastic bosses for self tapping screws molded into the bumper cover and the filler panel. Some of the screws are shared with the filler panel fixation to the bumper cover and some of the bosses are molded in the middle of the filler panel. Hence why I highly doubt that non fog light panel has the mounting boss or the brackets.
 

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Of course the foglight garnish would have the bosses. Hopefully the fog light garnish has the screws and the bracket with it but probably not the bracket or the screws since they are self tapping screws through the garnish into the bumper cover. Have you seen part numbers for the bracket and screws or only available as part of the kits I mentioned earlier for adding fog lights to a base?

Off topic as he does not want Fog lights but might help someone else who has everything but the garnishes and brackets in a situation where the bumper cover was replaced even if for the same year as the car.
 

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2011 and 2012 have the brackets listed separate but not the 2013+. It appears the 2013 just mounts directly to the filler panel or garnish as the parts list calls it.

33901-SZT-G01 2011-2012 Right
33951-SZT-G01 2011-2012 Left

Oh hey look a video of a 2013. Appears the bumper cover is the bracket on the 2013+

Oh shoot, and as luck would have it the 2013 Base and EX use the same part number on the bumper cover. So the "bracket" is there just need the fog light and the trim piece.
 

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But the lights and panels do not show or list brackets so maybe you can use the same 2011-12 brackets and screws?

2011 and 2012 have the brackets listed separate but not the 2013+. It appears the 2013 just mounts directly to the filler panel or garnish as the parts list calls it.

33901-SZT-G01 2011-2012 Right
33951-SZT-G01 2011-2012 Left

Oh hey look a video of a 2013. Appears the bumper cover is the bracket on the 2013+
 

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You removed HID low beams, Halogen High beams and replaced with all LED? How did you solve the way the High beams are dimmed when used as a DRL? Is the beam pattern the same as before the conversion? I bought the EX because of the HIDs. Not to mention as we found out earlier LED headlights in the US are illegal. For the OP the issue is getting all the stock stuff to work properly and be the same brightness on both sides.

I hope it is just a bulb issue.
My CR-Z initially came with the halogen DRL/highbeam and the halogen fog lights. It also came with the D4S HID bulb which is your lowbeam to prevent any confusion. There are 3 lights:

High Beam Headlight/Daytime Running Light - 9005
Low Beam Headlight - D4S
Fog Lights - H11

Anyway, I believe your halogen DRL/highbeam bulbs are the issue since one is dimmer than the other. I also to my knowledge, do not believe the LED highbeam bulbs are illegal. Here is a link to the LED bulbs I use as both highbeam and my DRL Amazon.com: Alla Lighting Mini FL-BH 12500 Lumens P20D Base HB3 9005 LED Bulbs High/Low Beam High Power 90W Xtreme Super Bright 6000K Xenon White DRL Lights for Auto Cars, Trucks : Automotive

First pic is with the LED lowbeam and the second pic is where I switch to the DRL/highbeam. During the day with the LED lowbeam and fogs turned off, the LED DRL/highbeam bulbs will be dimmed. The issue was solved with the Alla Lighting bulbs, I got rid of any error code by splicing resistors only to the DRL/highbeam wiring.
Atmosphere World Astronomical object Aurora Science
Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive design Speedometer Automotive exterior
 

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Which LED did you use for your high beam bulb? I did the VLEDs Micro Extreme to get the highest output possible on the high beam. They needed to be customized a little to match the odd 45 degree clocking of the bulb that the CR-Z has to make the optimal beam pattern. The base on the VLEDs was adjustable but in fixed 90 degree increments.
Amazon.com: Alla Lighting Mini FL-BH 12500 Lumens P20D Base HB3 9005 LED Bulbs High/Low Beam High Power 90W Xtreme Super Bright 6000K Xenon White DRL Lights for Auto Cars, Trucks : Automotive
 

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Listing is not clear, can that bulb be clocked? I found the best orientation was to have the LED chips pointed directly up and down.
 

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Listing is not clear, can that bulb be clocked? I found the best orientation was to have the LED chips pointed directly up and down.
They allow for adjusting, took me a while to get it right. Only thing is, you won't be able to put your original dust covers on because not enough room. That happened for both my low beam and DRL/highbeam.
 

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I need to try to keep us on topic it, is my fault that it went off topic. I hope in all of that the OP got the informatiopn he needed and it ends up being he has a bad Halogen bulb and should replace both with good well known brand name ones from a good manufacturer.
 

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I wonder why they put a 2013-2015 non EX bumper on a 2011 EX. I wonder what other interesting things this will have.
 

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Might have been the only replacement bumper cover available at the time and the previous owner might have been trying to repair at the lowest possible cost or just wanted the newer one. It is odd that the base fog light garnishes were used insterad of the Fog light ones since car apparently has everything else for forg lights. We will never know.

EX and non EX bumper covers are the same. The difference is the "garnishes" which are separate parts.

I wonder why they put a 2013-2015 non EX bumper on a 2011 EX. I wonder what other interesting things this will have.
 

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My main thing is even though they are the same bumper you are adding additional cost to the buyer to restore a feature on the car that should be available. It's just a bit disingenuous on the part of the seller if this was not properly disclosed.
 

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All cars are sold as is. It is the buyers responsibility to research the car and see what issues it has. He stated he got it very cheap and it runs. being a crash damaged and repaired car of course it is going to have issues. If the current owner wants the fog lights restored we have provided the part numbers and what will be needed to do that. He is not interested. I would be more concerned with the lighting issue which maybe just a bad bulb, ballast or wiring.

It was an auction car and most used cars of that year are over $5k he paid half that and it drives. All the rest is minor.

No used car is perfect and is 1 of 1.

My main thing is even though they are the same bumper you are adding additional cost to the buyer to restore a feature on the car that should be available. It's just a bit disingenuous on the part of the seller if this was not properly disclosed.
 

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Maybe the previous owner liked the look of the 13-15 bumper better? Figured if it had damage and needed replacement why not? Lots of people swap bumper skins (not just CR-Z) to the updated "facelift" model or the JDM model for no other reason than aesthetics.
 
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