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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just became an owner of a 2011 black Z. It was wrecked (front end) back in '13 and not repaired until '18. Then it apparently sat on a lot until they auctioned it and I grabbed it for $2050 plus fees. That is why the miles are so low. There is good and bad to this car. The good is the repairs (especially paint) are very clean. The repair paint is so nice, it makes the stock paint look bad. The car is fairly clean inside and out as well. Car is fully operational and I got a spoiler. The bad is 1) the key will not lock or unlock the car. It will not work in the doors mechanically or electronically. The fob button will make the light flicker and the horn beep but nothing happens on any of the doors. 2) I'm getting a IMA fault code (P1448) so I believe I need a new hybrid battery cooling fan. 3) The headlights (HID) are very dim, right more dim than left. I got the car for a steal so I can not complain too much. So far this forum has been great for figuring out my issues. All but the locks issue, I have found answers for. Any pointers, let me know. All the cars in the background are me, I am kind of obsessed with cars.
Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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The Miata is also a great choice!

Do the tires say Prime Hell? My first stop would be for some sticky buns to really let the CR-Zs handling shine.

Probably not HID headlights unless one side is and the other isn't as part of a poor repair job. I don't see fog lights so it is probably a base model and those where halogen bulbs in a projector housing. But it could be an EX and the repair was done incorrectly and they skipped the fogs. Probably more likely as that is a 2013-2015 front bumper cover and grille. Check the headlight stalk for the fog light switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is a fog light switch. The car is equipped with HIDs, I promise. I agree on the tires, the back are goodyear and the front are primewell. One of the back is missing the TPMS sensor.

Thanks on the miata. I let my girl drive it. The black truck is also me and the Taurus SHO next to the truck is me.
 

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There was another posting here with lock issues and keys that did not work. In that thread we discovered you can order replacement locks and then the car has to be programmed for new fobs and the ignition interlock. Most dealers should be able to rekey the car and have it all work. There maybe due to the accident damage to the IMA system but with some good trouble shooting ( see the @PeterPerkins postings for details for the IMA) it maybe possible to repair what ever is wrong. You will need an HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) or an advanced OBD II scanner that can read the IMA system faults. Head lights being dim may all be part of poor electrical repair work and you may need to replace the harness. Looks like a base so Halogen headlights maybe only one was replaced and the other not. They do dim over time. see if you can swap side to side and see if the brightness follows the bulb or is that side. If it follows the bulb replace the other one. It is a bit of troubleshooting and when a CR-Z is damaged above a certain $ amount they are totaled especially if the IMA system is involved.

If equipped with HIDs then they replaced the headlights with base headlights or you have a damaged ballast on the one side. Swap ballast from one side to the other to see if the issue follows the ballast. Do not touch the bulbs with bare fingers and never run the car with no bulbs in the headlight socket for the low beam as the HID system is high voltage and that will cause arcing and FIRE. see other postings about HIDs and trouble shooting.
 

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So an EX with a base model 13-15 front bumper.

Kind of sounds like a basket case but it can be made right. And for the price that is hard to argue.

Vleds . Com has a pretty awesome D4S drop in LED bulbs to replace the factory HID bulb. The bulbs do age and dim and the mercury free bulbs used in the CR-Z are not that great anyway.
 

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If the system is factory HIDs and all you need is bulbs another source is Replacement OEM HID Bulbs for 2011-2016 Honda CR-Z (pair) and it is recommended to always replace headlights in pairs especially HIDs. Since you have the wiring for the fog lights you could order the fog light kit and reinstall them . The kit is specific for 10-12s or 13-16s and the kit is for upgrading a base that has nothing. if the front was changed as we suspect or just the blank fascias were put in just have to order the correct pieces for the mounting and not the kit. Hopefully the wiring is there all the way to the front. See this thread Headlight and interior lighting upgrade... for the details on how to install fogs on a car that does not have them but since you have some of the parts you can order just the missing parts.i It was written to help a member add fogs to a base and has all the part numbers. You can enter the part number for the correct kit into Genuine OEM Honda Parts and Accessories Online - Honda Parts Now and then look up the individual parts you maybe missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm on that website now. I do have the wiring for the fogs, all the way to the location that the fogs should be at. I don't really have a desire for the fogs but maybe installing them will take away my DRL fault light.
 

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DRL fault is with the high beam bulbs. I know for sure they don't like LED's without an error canceller.

Do your high beams function?
 

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He never mentioned a DRL fault. The headlight on one side is dim that would be the low beam not the high beam. Since you have all the wiring if it were mine I would order the "Fog Light cover" and what ever else is missing and then upgrade the Fogs to LED or install the LED fogs from Diode dynamics but you will need those plastic panels unless you want drill a hole in it with a hole saw. Those panels may not be available from the usual suppliers.

The fault you mentioned was an IMA fan issue which is described in more detail here
Fan failure is a known issue and the actual fan part number is not available but the same fan is used on many Honda hybrids and you will just have to take whatever fan you can get and remove the damaged one from the housing on yours and put the new fan motor back in after extracting it from the housing on the new one..

Do you have other codes or just the one you documented?
I'm getting a IMA fault code (P1448)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Let me preface that this is on of the most active forums i've been on. Impressive.
Yes, the high beams work. They are on but not bright during the day and bright when I flick the switch.
I only have that current fault code, My reader is not fancy enough to see everything honda specific.
 

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ryanthegreat1 His update shows he has no DRL fault light. He only has the one fan error.

Do the LEDs below the headlight turn on when the head lights are off manually? That is normal if you are auto mode then only the LED strips below the headlights are on and at night they will turn on the HIDs.(low beam). When you turn on the high beams you have the HIDs and the halogen high beams. I never have my headlights in auto as that causes a lot of on and off with HIDs and shortens their life. If the high beams are on durng the day and dim and the LEDs ( if you have them are not) then they wired the high beams as DRLs. The question is do the high beams and or LED DRL ( Daylight Running Lights) turn on or are the High beams wired as DRLs then you would have a brigtness change between day and night and no LEDs below headlights.

During the day the Led strips are supposed to be on at all times(if wired correctly as DRLs), when it is dark in auto mode the HIDs turn on and then with the stalk you can turn on the high beams full brightness. I forget the exact lights that are on in each mode. at night i think the DRL LED strips are off but can't remember.

So Do the LED strips below headlights ever turn on or do you only have high beams and low beams and the High beams are wired as DRLs?


Let me preface that this is on of the most active forums i've been on. Impressive.
Yes, the high beams work. They are on but not bright during the day and bright when I flick the switch.
I only have that current fault code, My reader is not fancy enough to see everything honda specific.
 

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2011 didn't have the LED DRL strips in the bottom of the headlight.

2011 and 2012 run the high beam at half power as a DRL anytime the lights are off and the parking brake is released.

Perhaps an incorrect wattage high beam bulb is installed creating the DRL error message.
 

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I was corrected on that before some did even in 2010-2012s but possibly not in US. Again he has no DRL error. He has now stated that just the brightness change between day and night( which is normal for DRL) but one side is dimmer which indicates to me a bulb or wiring issue .

That front end looks like a normal 2010-12 with the HIDs but the panel where the fogs go looks like the blank filler plate from a base. I had to blow that picture up really big to see there are no LED DRLs I was thrown off by ryanthegreat1 stating it was a later bumper it is not and even if it is they are the normal headlights for an EX without the separate LED DRLs.

Again see if the dim side follows the bulb during the day if it does replace both high beam halogen bulbs. If it does not look for corrosion and damage to the halogen socket on dim side.

If one side is only dim when at night then it maybe a ballast issue for the low beam HID bulb on that side.
 

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OK, then he will need the different filler panels for the Fog lights but back to the issue, see my notes on narrowing down the headlight issue since there is no DRL error.

That is a 13-15 bumper cover without a doubt. It has the larger fog light panels and has the full honeycomb grille. The 2011-2012 has the smaller fog light panels and has the 3 louvers across the top half of the grille.



View attachment 65051

This is the 2011-2012 bumper.
 

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Yes , of course but at least from the other threads it appears round are more available and there are more options.

If you can find them for 2013 and up here are the part numbers
Rectangle Font Grass Circle Pattern

Rectangle Font Magenta Electric blue Circle

And then the OEM fog lights ( other aftermarket ones maybe better and LED)
Product Rectangle Organism Yellow Font


and of course the brackets which may still be on the car.
And the matching round fog lights. 11-12 were oval lights.
 

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I have a 2011 and I recently went a full LED setup with no error, headlights are the older version without the DRL LED strip on the bottom. It was difficult to find a LED bulb that can act as the DRL/highbeam at the same time but I managed to find the right product. If there are any questions about it I may be able to help.
Edit: I also had previously spliced resistors into the DRL/highbeams.
 

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Brackets are mounted to the bumper. Highly doubt they are present. The non fog light panels likely do not have the mounting bosses for the brackets.
 
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