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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
I just disconnected my 12v battery to recheck my valve clearance after the fit ge8 cam swap. My hybrid battery is at 0% when it first started. I cannot remember if this is normal.
I believe this happened when i swapped the ge8 plenum in the year before last but I'm not 100% sure.

Is that normal.

*my valve clearance on the intake was too loose. I don't have the tappy tappy noise anymore. I need to bring it for a good spin today but so far I am happy it was just clearances and not bad rockers.
 

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Yes that is normal it will take a little while for it to re-calibrate. Disconnecting the battery resets a lot of things on the car and is perfectly normal. @PeterPerkins is the expert, Hopefully he will have time to comment here .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Spdbump, i vaguely remember it happened before as i mentioned but I changed my 12v yesterday so just double checking.
My local parts shop says alot of vehicles (not just hybrid) are having batteries replaced due to lockdown and lack of regular driving.
 

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Due to our current situation I as I mentioned before bought The Speed Bump one of these 4 Amp Fully Automatic Microprocessor Controlled Battery Charger/Maintainer I got it on sale and I am using the semi-permanent quick disconnect connected to my battery. It is connected every time the car is parked. I am glad there was a duplex outlet with an open outlet in ceiling of the garage I am renting.
63755
 

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Very normal at least on the 2011. The battery isn't actually discharged, the meter just zeroes out.

I think there's like a 10 minute window before the meter zeroes out.
 

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Due to our current situation I as I mentioned before bought The Speed Bump one of these 4 Amp Fully Automatic Microprocessor Controlled Battery Charger/Maintainer I got it on sale and I am using the semi-permanent quick disconnect connected to my battery. It is connected every time the car is parked. I am glad there was a duplex outlet with an open outlet in ceiling of the garage I am renting.
View attachment 63755
How is this different from say a ctek charger which is what I use.

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Don't know and don't care it cost me $27 and serves the purpose. As long as you have some kind of charger maintainer. If you are that curious go read the specifications also at that link. It will charge the battery and then cycle it to keep it working well. Since I started using it I am seeing Up to 14 volts on my Scan Gauge while driving. I used to see up to 13.7. We just need to do something to take care of the under hood battery considering how little use the cars are getting and the known charging issues on CR-Zs.

How is this different from say a ctek charger which is what I use.

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IDK my original 12v lasted like 7-8 years it was absurd. Try this method: every day drive through food, park and eat in accessory with radio on for 30 minutes, then 'Italian tuneup'. 😀
 

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Point to take from the "Bump" is to have something on the UHB when the car is sitting.
Mine is commuter duty for about 800 miles per week and gets parked Friday afternoon until Monday morning. Once in the garage, yellow box gets hooked up.
Plus last year, basically March to end of November, it was only driven for lunch each Friday as I worked from home. Still kept the yellow box on it and is a Yuasa maintainer, as I have several for motorbike use.
I know the maintainer / trickle charger ( whatever ) saved the UHB during that time frame.
 
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It's a safe bet that a decent percentage of the people who own this now five to ten year old Honda don't have the luxury of an outlet with which to use one anyway.
 

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At my previous house for battery charging we ran a long outdoor extension cord to the car and put the charger under the locked hood. Where there is a will there is a way. If you have a garage door opener even if car is not in that garage you usually have an outlet available. I even ran an extension cord out a window when i had a lower level apartment or used one of the outlets on the side of the apartment.
 

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@TankZF1

As already stated by @96firephoenix and @Spdbump, the meter going to 0% is normal. It probably has already charged up by now right?? Usually only takes about 10 minutes of driving.

Those 12v battery maintainers are nice, but they wont do anything for the hybrid battery. That is just for the 12v underhood.. as far as I know. Unless keeping the 12v stops the hybrid from discharging as fast.

If you ever want to charge the hybrid battery while sitting in place.. put the car in neutral and rev past 3000rpm. This charges the hybrid battery. Pretty sure its the same with the automatics, but, might have to be in park? I'm not sure.. If it lets you rev to 3k, you are good to go.

Those 12v underhood chargers are cool though, ive saved batteries with them before. Had some go from like 11v to 14v after charging / desulfating the plates in the battery for 2 weeks or so.

Btw: @TankZF1 : how do you like the cam swap? Do you noticed more top end, or low end torque? How does it change the feel of driving the car?

I need to do my valves, getting bad gas mileage. At around 135k now.. What is the mileage of your car?
 

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We have discussed this method of force charging before it is better to not do it this way but to take it on a spirited drive which will charge both batteries and is better for the car.

We have never said putting this kind of charger on the car will do anything for the Hybrid battery but @PeterPerkins has explained multiple times how to build and use a grid charger for that.

@TankZF1

As already stated by @96firephoenix and @Spdbump, the meter going to 0% is normal. It probably has already charged up by now right?? Usually only takes about 10 minutes of driving.

Those 12v battery maintainers are nice, but they wont do anything for the hybrid battery. That is just for the 12v underhood.. as far as I know. Unless keeping the 12v stops the hybrid from discharging as fast.

If you ever want to charge the hybrid battery while sitting in place.. put the car in neutral and rev past 3000rpm. This charges the hybrid battery. Pretty sure its the same with the automatics, but, might have to be in park? I'm not sure.. If it lets you rev to 3k, you are good to go.

Those 12v underhood chargers are cool though, ive saved batteries with them before. Had some go from like 11v to 14v after charging / desulfating the plates in the battery for 2 weeks or so.

Btw: @TankZF1 : how do you like the cam swap? Do you noticed more top end, or low end torque? How does it change the feel of driving the car?

I need to do my valves, getting bad gas mileage. At around 135k now.. What is the mileage of your car?
 

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we have discussed this method of force charging before it is better to not do it this way but to take it on a spirited drive which will charge both batteries and is better for the car.
True that.. though, this is the method the manual recommends, so it will do no harm.

Except piss the neighbors off. But, definitely better to just drive the car.

This is more the method if you CANT drive the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Btw: @TankZF1 : how do you like the cam swap? Do you noticed more top end, or low end torque? How does it change the feel of driving the car?

I need to do my valves, getting bad gas mileage. At around 135k now.. What is the mileage of your car?
[/QUOTE]

It's a completely different machine. The torque from 3k up is amazing. It just pulls,and then gently lunges forward again when the high cam engages.

My z is stock, save for the ge8 plenum, i haven't had a tune, i just changed the rpm limit and the vtec window with my ktuner.
Data log before and after shows afrs are basically identical so for a basically stock engine I don't think a tune is needed.

I've read the drop off after 6250, when the assist turns off, makes redlining the engine pointless but it isn't you can spin it right up to 6800
 

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Btw: @TankZF1
I've read the drop off after 6250, when the assist turns off, makes redlining the engine pointless but it isn't you can spin it right up to 6800
If the ECM does cut normally assist at 6250 RPM as you suspect then IMA manual control would negate that restriction ;)

I have noticed with manual control that when assisting hard with the WOT mode when the stock rpm limit is reached the IMA is still pulling at 100% and will push the revs higher.

The rpm limit is in the ECM commands not the IMA itself.. If you override the commands........ :devilish:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If the ECM does cut normally assist at 6250 RPM as you suspect then IMA manual control would negate that restriction ;)

I have noticed with manual control that when assisting hard with the WOT mode when the stock rpm limit is reached the IMA is still pulling at 100% and will push the revs higher.

The rpm limit is in the ECM commands not the IMA itself.. If you override the commands........ :devilish:
Manual control and the ge8 cam swap sounds like it would be one serious package 😁
 
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