Rear Brake pads, rotors, and calipers - 2011 EX - Page 2 - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums
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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 96firephoenix View Post
well, time to go buy a 1911 so I can justify having the 45ACP cleaning brush, lol.
Just checked, and looks like I used the .38 caliber one.
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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by d1giPhux View Post
Just checked, and looks like I used the .38 caliber one.
ok, I've already got one of those, lol.
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Man, thank you all SO MUCH for the information! I got a second opinion on the brakes from Goodyear since I already had an appointment with them to install a new set of tires. They said that I do need to replace both rear calipers, that the left is completely locked up and that the other one is not much better. Funny because the other place said the right side was worse. Both places said that my vehicle has a "special" caliper and it has to be ordered from the OEM because nothing else will fit it. They also quoted me around $1500. I don't mind paying extra for decent parts, and I don't know really anything about working on cars, but that seems outrageous. I do know that most of the cost is from the calipers, which run around $400 from the OEM (and after shops up-charging the **** out of it).

But I think I have a plan after talking with my buddy. He actually suggested that it's probably just the pins like someone else in the thread suggested. I'm going to get new caliper pins, pads, and rotors locally and have him replace everything for me. His wife has a CR-Z too so he's used to working on her car and has all the tools already. If I actually need new calipers he will let me know.
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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by slagathor View Post
Hi everyone! I need to replace my rear pads, rotors, and calipers on my 2011 EX. I am not savvy with car stuff so I’m hoping you guys can point me in the right direction! The shop I originally took it to quoted me over $1600. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/CRZForum_2016/smilies/tango_face_sad.png[/IMG]

I have several mechanic friends, the wife of one also drives a CR-Z, so I’m thinking about purchasing the parts myself and having someone I trust do the work. Thoughts? Recommendations on parts? I just use my car as a daily commuter car.

Thank you!
No problem man!!

New complete calipers from Bernardiparts.com are $277.

Just make sure your friend cleans the slider pin holes out real good, as they are usually the corroded part. I suggest using the $9 Walmart gun cleaning kit I recommend. That and wd40. Will make his life simple.
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by slagathor View Post
They also quoted me around $1500. I don't mind paying extra for decent parts, and I don't know really anything about working on cars, but that seems outrageous. I do know that most of the cost is from the calipers, which run around $400 from the OEM (and after shops up-charging the **** out of it).

But I think I have a plan after talking with my buddy. He actually suggested that it's probably just the pins like someone else in the thread suggested. I'm going to get new caliper pins, pads, and rotors locally and have him replace everything for me. His wife has a CR-Z too so he's used to working on her car and has all the tools already. If I actually need new calipers he will let me know.
That's insane! 1500 for brakes!

Sounds like a good plan to have your buddy do it.
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post #16 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:05 PM
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DigiPh had the right Idea just rebuild what you have with nice new parts. The main body of a caliper does not wear out ( unless you have had a horrible accident and then the caliper is the least of your issues) just replace what wears out. As for what brand etc these days I do not think that really matters but Drilled and or Slotted is IMHO not needed and can weaken the rotor. A brake job is not that hard and you can save a lot of money by doing it yourself.



In my life I have found when a shop quotes a really high price they generally do not want to do the job. I was quoted over $800 for an alternator replacement on a GM car where it was right on top of the engine. I went elsewhere and paid substantially less. I would have done it myself but car was not drive-able with failed Alternator and failing battery and had to get it fixed Fast to get to work. I drove to my known good shop with a jump box connected to car back feeding the power socket to give just enough power to keep it running at stop lights( my dad the engineers Idea and it worked! He made me the special car power plug to car power plug cable. Damn I miss him).







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Originally Posted by slagathor View Post
The person I spoke with at the shop said the rear calipers were locking up, and that the right side was worse than the left. He said that the front looked like it still had 10k-15k miles left before it would need to be replaced.

Thanks for the link! I'll check it out.
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post #17 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 96firephoenix View Post
well, time to go buy a 1911 so I can justify having the 45ACP cleaning brush, lol.

I bought a set of tubing cleaning brushes at Harbor Freight and also a set of welding tip cleaning brass brushes and they were very cheap. I like looking for things from one discipline and using them for something else.
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post #18 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by slagathor View Post
The person I spoke with at the shop said the rear calipers were locking up, and that the right side was worse than the left. He said that the front looked like it still had 10k-15k miles left before it would need to be replaced.

Thanks for the link! I'll check it out.

If possible replace all pads all rotors and flush and replace Brake fluid. I think you will be shocked at the difference. Brake fluid absorbs water and should be replaced at least every 2 years.
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post #19 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 08:53 AM
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Brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
*laughs nervously with OE brake fluid from 2011*
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post #20 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 12:41 PM
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*laughs nervously with OE brake fluid from 2011*
Yeah.. i should probably do that soon.
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