2011 Drivers Door Window Motor - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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2011 Drivers Door Window Motor

I've not owned this car too long, but I tore into my door today because my driver's window would only go down 1mm at a click of the switch with the car in the ACC position. After getting it all the way apart, I discovered that it works fine with the engine running. Is this common knowledge or do I have something weird going on with mine?

Tom
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:23 PM
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sounds like you've got a dead 12V battery. A healthy one gets the window open in ACC.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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That's odd. The passenger window goes up/down fine, and the car has a fairly new 12V battery. I'll have to put a meter on the battery and see what kind of voltage I'm getting. Thanks for the reply.

I also posted this for future searchers who may be experiencing the same issue to save them the trouble of taking off the door panel.

Tom
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 01:51 PM
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That's odd. The passenger window goes up/down fine, and the car has a fairly new 12V battery. I'll have to put a meter on the battery and see what kind of voltage I'm getting. Thanks for the reply.

I also posted this for future searchers who may be experiencing the same issue to save them the trouble of taking off the door panel.

Tom
Wait a second. Did you push the switch all the way down to engage the Auto-down? or did you just blip the switch a bit in the first position?

The only thing I can think is that maybe your auto-down relay is going bad (I'd have to find my service manual to know which one that is though)
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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I tried both, but just "blipping" it allowed it to go down 1mm at a time. When I pushed it for the auto-down to engage, it didn't do anything.

Tom
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:00 PM
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I tried both, but just "blipping" it allowed it to go down 1mm at a time. When I pushed it for the auto-down to engage, it didn't do anything.

Tom

Since the Passenger side works fine and it is only the Drivers side it can be the switch( I think the Auto Up/Down is in the switch) or the Motor/wiring. Till you investigate it or try using the drivers window with the passenger switch or vice versa you will not know for sure. Time for more trouble shooting. Sorry If it works fine when engine is running you may have high resistance some where and the lower voltage available when not running may not be enough. Inspect wiring for damage. May still be the switch though.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dachristianman View Post
I've not owned this car too long, but I tore into my door today because my driver's window would only go down 1mm at a click of the switch with the car in the ACC position. After getting it all the way apart, I discovered that it works fine with the engine running. Is this common knowledge or do I have something weird going on with mine?

Tom
I had a similar problem with the passenger side window on my 2002 Insight. I had to go through the trouble shooting section in the service manual to find the problem. Actually, there were two problems--the first one probably caused the second problem to come up and bite me, after ignoring the first one for a year or so...

1) Weather seal (at the top of the door panel) deteriorated and was causing a lot of extra friction. I remember the first cleaning made it work better, but the issue came back a month or so later--sluggish window operation. I bet I used too harsh of a cleaner on it, and made it deteriorate more, and having more friction.
2) Window would roll down one day, but wouldn't roll back up unless I helped it by pulling. Took door panel off and tested the motor directly, bypassing the switches, and it worked smoothly. Turned out to be the MAIN window switch on the driver's side that I had to replace.

To tell you the truth, I've manually rolled down windows for 20 years with no problem--before all cars went to electronics--and sometimes I miss the old, simple crank.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 09:58 AM
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If it works fine when engine is running you may have high resistance some where and the lower voltage available when not running may not be enough. Inspect wiring for damage. May still be the switch though.
This sounds like the most likely answer. I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams to know if the auto feature is in the switch, but i think the window motors are distinct between auto and non-auto.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:51 AM
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If it works fine when engine is running you may have high resistance some where and the lower voltage available when not running may not be enough. Inspect wiring for damage. May still be the switch though.
This sounds like the most likely answer. I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams to know if the auto feature is in the switch, but i think the window motors are distinct between auto and non-auto.
The power control unit IS built into the switch and may very well just need to be reset. I had to do this recently.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 01:02 PM
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.... sometimes I miss the old, simple crank.
Well, I miss you as well.

I suspect buck fever, and too hard a pull on the trigger.
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