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Old 02-08-2012, 06:28 PM   #281 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roddy View Post
what koala says is true, your speedometer will be off. my experience is that going 74mph i'm really going 69~mph (based on gps speedometer).

your miles will add up quicker since your car will think it's moving fast. if that doesn't concern you, then go for the 205/40.

Yea i figure miles will add up quickly with that ill be going 215/40
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:24 PM   #282 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by samsterrz View Post
I plan on lowering it to sit flush, I was thinking about going 215/40 but dont want to mod anything for fitment, 205/40 sounds good?
You can see how a 215/40 fits on a 9 wide. i posted a pic of it 2 pages back. the front will require camber bolts and the rear will require a little shaving of the rear fender so you dont rub or eat your tires away (you can say adios to your fender liners).

I might be rolling on this exact setup this weekend to a meet. if i do ill let you guys know how it is lol.

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Originally Posted by Koala Yummies View Post
McPherson strut suspension won't camber with change in height. The camber is static, only change available is from the camber bolts, and it is static once set, not dynamic.
im sorry but bull****. i know alignments and i know suspension geometry. Factory we have positive camber. After dropping my car i now have -.6 and -1.4 fronts. You will gain negative camber when lowering the suspension. the only thing to ADD or DECREASE camber will be the use of camber bolts. Ive bought camber bolts to realign the camber even with each side. Also to fit a set of wheels eventually.

The REAR how ever is a full floating axle (non driving/solid) and will not change dramatically in degrees. However my rear toe went slightly more in (i believe it was .02 difference from before) and camber went negative a little (again not more than .02). Its not possible to adjust the rear at all, so constant tire rotations will be the only thing to prevent too much wear (non staggered setups only).
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:53 PM   #283 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James View Post
im sorry but bull****. i know alignments and i know suspension geometry. Factory we have positive camber.
It's 0 degrees for the front, from the factory. Even the service manual says Front: 0°00' +/-1°.

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You will gain negative camber when lowering the suspension.
Not on this car. On double wishbone cars, yes. On vehicles with unequal length a-arm, yes. They can control the rate and direction of the camber gain. On McPherson strut cars it's not black and white like you are saying.

"They [double-wishbone suspensions] also provide increasing negative camber gain all the way to full jounce travel unlike the MacPherson strut which provides negative camber gain only at the beginning of jounce travel and then reverses into positive camber gain at high jounce amounts."

Double wishbone suspension - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"not generally considered to give as good handling as a double wishbone suspension, because it allows the engineers less freedom to choose camber change and roll center."

MacPherson strut - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A lot of people remember working on Hondas and Acuras from the 90's and think the suspension behaves the same when they lower their new Hondas. It's not the same camber change at all.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:54 PM   #284 (permalink)
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When I dropped mine it cambered to positive and not negative... WTF!!!
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:26 PM   #285 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koala Yummies View Post
It's 0 degrees for the front, from the factory. Even the service manual says Front: 0°00' +/-1°.



Not on this car. On double wishbone cars, yes. On vehicles with unequal length a-arm, yes. They can control the rate and direction of the camber gain. On McPherson strut cars it's not black and white like you are saying.

"They [double-wishbone suspensions] also provide increasing negative camber gain all the way to full jounce travel unlike the MacPherson strut which provides negative camber gain only at the beginning of jounce travel and then reverses into positive camber gain at high jounce amounts."

Double wishbone suspension - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"not generally considered to give as good handling as a double wishbone suspension, because it allows the engineers less freedom to choose camber change and roll center."

MacPherson strut - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A lot of people remember working on Hondas and Acuras from the 90's and think the suspension behaves the same when they lower their new Hondas. It's not the same camber change at all.
I wasnt saying he was going to gain -3 degree camber from dropping the car. I know on my car my camber went negative all around. I know how the old double wishbone suspension works, i pretty much work on them everyday. Ive also done McPherson styles. no matter what making the car lower from the factory point will change camber even if its 1 degree or 3 degrees. I believe it also depends on the wheels? im looking at my factory ones and they have negative camber, but im looking at the x9 wheels and it looks like it didnt change at all.





but even then i can see a slight change in camber.

Tbot LOL all i can think of is your toe was off enough to cause that, was it corrected since the alignment?
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:45 PM   #286 (permalink)
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So does anyone have an idea of how a 17x8 +25 will sit?
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:26 PM   #287 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So does anyone have an idea of how a 17x8 +25 will sit?
BasisSportTony had some 17x8.25" +25 a while back that he sold on here. He said there were no issues with a 205/40 tire other than the rear bumper screw and either camber or slight fender pull in front.
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:16 PM   #288 (permalink)
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they cleared fine on my car and even when I sold it to a member here onthe forum we didnt have to do any work on his car for them to fit. The only thing I didnt like was the fact that I had to run a 205/40 when I should be running a 205/45 tire. I think the 205/45 shouldnt have any issues either.

Use Willtheyfit.com

my biggest flush fitment with out rubbing and modding is a 18x8.5 +35 with a 215/40 you can use that as a exsisting fitment and anything bigger then that will require some shaving or rolling.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:46 PM   #289 (permalink)
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Awesome. I was going to run a 195/40 but changed my mind to run a 205/40
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:48 AM   #290 (permalink)
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hello guys,
would need your help.
planning to get a rpf1 17x 8, 17x 8.5 et +30..will it fit to my Z ? and what profile of tyres shud i use ?
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