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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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2011 SSM CR-Z EX/6MT Surface protection count...(48) v..JOIN US..v https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K16Y...e_gdata_player |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 449
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Regular fluid changes in the trans usually is a good thing. I'm just over 10k myself and I've been noticing some excessive effort while shifting on colder days.
I have always used BG Synchroshift II. I will make time to do it soon and report back. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I thought about changing mine. Yes, someone please post a DIY for changing manual transmission oil.
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2011 CR-Z EX 6MT Denso IK22 Spark Plugs, Spoon Throttle Body, Takeda Momentum Intake (WB) Spoon Subframe Rigid Collar, Cusco FR Strut OS Bar, HKS Kensai Rear Strut Bar, Basis RSB. http://www.crzforum.com/forum/garage/1327 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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So I take it the Redline MTX is compatable, so I'm assuming Mobil 1 has something as well, I'm pretty big on Mobil 1. Now as far as it being noticable when its cold, well, that's pretty normal right, the viscosity isn't going to be the same when its 20 degrees compared to 70, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.
The DIY wll be pretty helpful for sure as I'm someone who believes in changing out the fluid a bit earlier because its cheap insurance for sure!
__________________
2011 SSM CR-Z EX/6MT Surface protection count...(48) v..JOIN US..v https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K16Y...e_gdata_player |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 321
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I've changed the transmission fluid on my 6MT. It's a really simple process, I'm surprised there's not already a DIY.
For those that want to try without a DIY, it's rather simple: Follow the normal oil-change procedure for removing all the plastic under-panels. There are two bolts that need to be removed, the lower drain bolt, and the upper fill-hole bolt (buy spare crush-washers for both from dealership). Drain the fluid from the lower drain bolt, you can also remove the fill-bolt at that time. Then you re-fill (I use a funnel with a cheap vacuum hose attached or something similar to reach down to the fill-hole from above the engine). Once you're pouring, and the new fluid begins to come out of the fill-hole, wait for it to stop spilling out the hole, and re-install the fill-hole bolt. The fluid level should be level with the opening of the fill-hole bolt, so once the fluid stops coming out the fill-hole it's filled properly. There's no specific amount required, it's fill-'till-it-spills. Best to do it on a level a surface as possible (I jack up the rear of the car to match the front's jacked-up height, or just put the car on the ground to fill). Also, I would stick with Honda MTF. I don't use anything but Honda transmission fluid in manual transmission Hondas. I was going to link a diagram to help, but it doesn't show the locations of the drain and fill bolts well-enough to see. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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^^^thank you from all of us^^^
I know you said there's not a certain amount but how many quarts did you buy and what was left over?
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2011 SSM CR-Z EX/6MT Surface protection count...(48) v..JOIN US..v https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K16Y...e_gdata_player |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Agree with that. Honda makes their own transmission. Their own TF is good enough. Especially on Honda's auto-trans and CVT, Honda TF is the only way to go.
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CR-Z owner since 24th August, 2010Tein SS, Spoon throttle body, Motul RBF 600, Basis 2.25" Test Pipes http://www.flickr.com/photos/fearrange/ http://fearrange.smugmug.com/ |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 321
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Quote:
The Helm manual states: Fluid Capacity (6MT) 1.4L (1.5 US qt) at fluid change 1.6L (1.7 US qt) at overhaul (disassembly) I could take a photo of the page in the Helm, it's literally one-side of one-page long instructions. |
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