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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 56
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On the other hand, the guage that tracks the average mpg I've achieved has held steady at about 35, which is consistent with the remaining fuel miles guage vs the number of miles I've done during the tank. What might explain this inconsistency, and further, why the heck might I only be getting 35 mpg when I'm using many of the hypermiling techniques I've read about? I anticipate traffic and get off the accelerator way before getting to a light turning red, I'll use neutral as well to mitigate friction while coasting. I'll use cruise control when practical, I accelerate smoothly, I pulse and glide and go slow up hills when not holding up traffic, and I'll either go downhill in neutral if coming to a stop soon or accelerate downhill then put it in neutral and glide if I'll have a long run after coming off the hill. Is it just that the car isn't yet broken in or am I doing it wrong? Getting only the listed 35 mpg while utilizing all these techniques should give me better, and again, the one guage indicates *seemingly falsely" that I am doing much better. I don't know if it's related but is anyone else noticing that the guage that tracks if you brake or accelerate too hard sometimes indicates very slight braking even when just coasting along in neutral? Perhaps I'm getting some drag from somewhere? The emergency brake isn't on or anything, and it registers only slightly.
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Resident Honda Sales Guy |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Sometimes I can get high 30s and low 40s in the city, but if the lights and / or traffic are against me, it can be the lows 20s as shown via the trip-mileage bar. One thing I've noticed driving about 700 miles now over 3 weeks, is that it takes longer for the mpg to change up than for it to change down. This is because 40-42 mpg's from highway driving isn't that much over my average of 35 mpgs, whereas low- to mid-20s is a fairly large amount below my average. So, for instance, I started a 100 mile weekend highway (42 mpg's) trip at 34.7 and wound up at 35.2, and increase of 0.1 mpg's for every 20 miles. Then, I started the workweek at 35.2 and with about 15 miles of city driving in 7 or 8 very short trips, the mpg went down to 35.0, a drop of 0.2 in only 15 miles. (Gradually, I'm getting better at city mpg's and am expecting better numbers out of this third tank that started this evening.) |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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1987 Honda Prelude Si 5MT (waiting to be rebuild) 2001 Acura MDX 2007 Honda Accord SE 2011 Honda CR-Z EX 6MT
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
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![]() Well atleast now I know that my mpg is right there with others. Im just not that good at all this mpg/eco green stuff. I cant even get past the 1st level in the eco score at the end of trips. I keep killing all the flowers lolI have to keep my foot out of it more
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2011 Honda CRZ, EX CVT Navi, Crystal Black Pearl ![]() 2010 Ford Escape 2009 Yamaha R1 2007 Ford Mustang GT/CS(Sold) |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
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Coasting in neutral will turn the injectors on and the car will idle (i dont think the crz turns off coasting in neutral). Anyway it is usally better to coast in gear (no fuel used although you slow down slightly from compression braking) than to coast in neutral using fuel. Many argue you can get better gas mileage WITHOUT cruise control. Going slow up hills may hurt you. The whole less fuel for longer (slow up a hill) or more fuel for shorter (fast up a hill). Depending on how much you bog the engine and just how slow you are going it may make more sene to carry your momentum and just crest the hill at a normal speed. As for the last part i did read that when coasting the electric motor will put out a slight load. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 34
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Yep, if you simply let of the gas to coast, (engine braking) the fuel will likely cut out which is more fuel effecient, but at the same time the computer will add a little regen braking in as well so the extra load will slow you down faster than coasting in nuetral.
I prefer to coast in nuetral going downhill when I can, but leave it in gear if Im afraid of gaining too much speed. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Don't mind me but why coast with clutch depressed? If you don't need IMA batteries to be charged than coast in neutral keep safe distance from front vehicle for safety will use least amount of fuel from way back when I was taught manual. But I'd read somewhere in this forum that when you coast in gear without compressing throttle (with new technology) you are not using any fuel. Benefit coasting in gear is IMA batteries recharged, engine break, and you have more control of your vehicle. My 2cents. ![]() Edit: after rereading daveNajax comments...I agreed 100%.
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1987 Honda Prelude Si 5MT (waiting to be rebuild) 2001 Acura MDX 2007 Honda Accord SE 2011 Honda CR-Z EX 6MT
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Years ago, in an owner's manual for an older car (think it was my '89 Prelude) I read that when stopped in neutral with the clutch out there was a small amount of clutch wear. So, I've assumed that when coasting in neutral, it's better to have the clutch in to avoid the possibility of that little bit of clutch wear.
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