anything to consider when lowering car?

[xaaxjocg]

Hi guys - so I compared coilovers and I think I might end up going with some tein street basis coilovers. I'm just looking for something mildly stiffer than stock and these seem to fit the bill for me while also being cheaper than most .

I remember reading a very good forum post about the effects of lowering a car more than an inch, and that if you lower more than an inch, it can cause the control arms to get out of alignment, and ends up negatively impacting the handling.

I think the article was primarily targeted at springs, but should I be concerned if I install coilovers?

[sohcsol]

No worries, most cars that get tracked are lowered as much as possible while retaining functionality. The only thing you'll want to keep in check once lowered is your alignment, most likely front toe will be out after the install.

Good luck!

[Tbot]

Lower it til it starts to rub... Then tear out the fender lining and make it HELLAFLUSH

[JCRZ]

It's a Honda slam it lol. All jokes aside just get it properly aligned after.

[xaaxjocg]

well.... for example I just read one site for VWs that said to make sure you final torque the control arm bolts with the car at ride height so you dont put a preload on the control arms and cause premature bushing failure.

[code85]

just gotta look out for pot holes/man holes to avoid blowing your struts, doesn't matter if you have expensive coilovers.. with rough streets it can blow any strut... I have the Tein SS and they blew on me within 3 months (just like everyone else... rear right strut)... and I drive on the usual route I drove on with my TSX and that car was wayyy lower than the Z.

make sure you align after lowering...

[Scotty001]

Originally Posted by code85

just gotta look out for pot holes/man holes to avoid blowing your struts...

Yea, 100% agreed.. Need to take into consideration your road conditions for a daily driver.

[sohcsol]

Originally Posted by xaaxjocg

well.... for example I just read one site for VWs that said to make sure you final torque the control arm bolts with the car at ride height so you dont put a preload on the control arms and cause premature bushing failure.

Oh, if youre wondering about doing the install yourself, there are a ton of things to watch out for along the way. Such as...

- Make sure the front sway bar isnt loaded when you unbolt it,

- Support the front lca's when you are removing the strut so it doesnt fall and pull the axle out

- Dont torque the rear lower strut bolt until the car is on the ground (like you mentioned to not preload bushings)

- Dont over-torque the front lower strut bolts, I believe the oems take 100lb-ft and most camber bolts take 70-80lb-ft. Also re torque them after a couple hundred miles.

- Careful not to drop the rear upper strut mounting hardware down into the abyss (area below subwoofer, batteries, and spare tire). Ive done this 3 times and spent hours tearing out my interior and removing the rear bumper to retrieve them.


Ive installed and uninstalled both springs and coilovers multiple times on the CRZ, so I can walk you through the process pretty easily if youd like. Oh and youll need a strut spring compressor if you want to play it safe, although I didnt use one the last time.

[hoisumguo]

Originally Posted by sohcsol

- Support the front lca's when you are removing the strut so it doesnt fall and pull the axle out

Omg I've had it come out even with support. Biggest pita to get reseated. Crz seems really shallow compared to some of the older hondas. But yes beware.

Also watch the clearance on the front wheel wells. There are some places inside that protrude and rub that are not on the fender lip. You'll see them if u look. If sticking with the same overall wheel and tire diameter it shouldn't be an issue though.

-Hoi

[sohcsol]

Originally Posted by hoisumguo

Omg I've had it come out even with support. Biggest pita to get reseated. Crz seems really shallow compared to some of the older hondas. But yes beware.

Also watch the clearance on the front wheel wells. There are some places inside that protrude and rub that are not on the fender lip. You'll see them if u look. If sticking with the same overall wheel and tire diameter it shouldn't be an issue though.

-Hoi

Ive had this happen, too. The hub can rotate on the lower ball joint and still pull the axle out with the strut removed. You have to jack the hub way up, until the axle is at a downward angle into the tranny to get it back in.

Also I am rubbing those bumpouts inside the wheelwell on the stock 16's and 195/55 tires, but it really doesnt hurt anything just makes a little noise. Its hitting the fender you want to avoid, just put in some camber bolts. Ill be switching to 205/45-16 tires to stop the rub and lower more