How much did you pay for your crz?

[DeathInEminor]

Once I get done with my learners permit (btw...MD has the dumbest laws regarding getting a license...you have to do 30 hours of class, 60 hours of driving, and wait 9 months)...anyway in 1-2 months, im off to the dealerships to hopefully purchase a CRZ (I have already been, but it was just to look). Im 21, so I have a feeling they are going to try and pull the wool over my eyes.
#1. When I go, do I put it out there that I am paying 100% in cash same day?
#2. I want the white Base CVT model, and I would like to talk them down below $18000 <---thats the maximum I want to pay. The MSRP is a little over $20,000. Do you guys think that is a reasonable price to try and tlak them down to?
#3. I know it may turn out in my favor, but probably not...should I start my negotiation below $18,000 (my maximum)
#4. When I went to the dealership to look, the guy mentioned they can throw in some stuff for free to help get me what I want. If I accept those, does that pretty much kill my shot to get my price?

Sorry for so many questions...I just want to get this right, and learn as much as I can.

[YLA]

21000&euro;

[forty2j]

Originally Posted by DeathInEminor

#1. When I go, do I put it out there that I am paying 100% in cash same day?
#2. I want the white Base CVT model, and I would like to talk them down below $18000 <---thats the maximum I want to pay. The MSRP is a little over $20,000. Do you guys think that is a reasonable price to try and tlak them down to?
#3. I know it may turn out in my favor, but probably not...should I start my negotiation below $18,000 (my maximum)
#4. When I went to the dealership to look, the guy mentioned they can throw in some stuff for free to help get me what I want. If I accept those, does that pretty much kill my shot to get my price?

Let's see..

1) No, try not to. They might be more willing to give you a better deal if they think they're going to make some money on financing through them. Hold this information out as long as you can. Note that many dealerships like to negotiate in terms of monthly payments, rather than bottom-line prices; you need to make it clear that you don't want to negotiate that way without saying why if you can.
2) I use Edmunds.com to find out what cars are actually selling for. That will give you the fair price. Keep in mind that you need to consider not only the car's price, but the "destination charge", "documentation fee" (usually $250, sometimes $400), sales tax, and registration. Figure out your maximum "out the door" price (which is the sum of all those) and negotiate to that.
3) Well if you open with your best offer, you didn't leave yourself any room to appear to compromise while still getting what you wanted... however if your opening offer is too unreasonable, you won't be taken seriously (and the guy might steer you to 5-year old used Civics in that price range). Edmunds (above) will tell you what's reasonable.
4) Don't talk about any throw-ins until it's clear the price isn't moving. If it isn't where you want it, be more aggressive about demanding the extras.
And..
5) Don't be afraid to just get up and leave if it's not going the way you want. It's tempting to get tied up in the emotion of buying your first new car, and it's a beauty, but you still need to make a sound financial decision. There are other dealers, and the first one you went to may call you back and be more willing to play ball.

[DeathInEminor]

Originally Posted by forty2j

Let's see..

1) No, try not to. They might be more willing to give you a better deal if they think they're going to make some money on financing through them. Hold this information out as long as you can. Note that many dealerships like to negotiate in terms of monthly payments, rather than bottom-line prices; you need to make it clear that you don't want to negotiate that way without saying why if you can.
2) I use Edmunds.com to find out what cars are actually selling for. That will give you the fair price. Keep in mind that you need to consider not only the car's price, but the "destination charge", "documentation fee" (usually $250, sometimes $400), sales tax, and registration. Figure out your maximum "out the door" price (which is the sum of all those) and negotiate to that.
3) Well if you open with your best offer, you didn't leave yourself any room to appear to compromise while still getting what you wanted... however if your opening offer is too unreasonable, you won't be taken seriously (and the guy might steer you to 5-year old used Civics in that price range). Edmunds (above) will tell you what's reasonable.
4) Don't talk about any throw-ins until it's clear the price isn't moving. If it isn't where you want it, be more aggressive about demanding the extras.
And..
5) Don't be afraid to just get up and leave if it's not going the way you want. It's tempting to get tied up in the emotion of buying your first new car, and it's a beauty, but you still need to make a sound financial decision. There are other dealers, and the first one you went to may call you back and be more willing to play ball.

Thanks for answering clearly. This will help alot

[Willard]

6MT EX w/ Navi, dealer wouldnt budge on the price, I paid sticker. 24,xxx But thats OK, I LOVE this car.

[TytaniumK]

"Whatever it is, it's not enough!"...from the movie, "Christine."

[rmidgett]

I paid 17K for my 2011 with 9K miles

[bilzfan]

I paid $17.7K for our 2011 EX Navi Certified with 17K miles in May 2012. Bought it in Philadelphia, PA, nearly, 150 miles from my home in Upstate NY.

[Zipy]

$19,000 out the door for new leftover 2011 EX no Nav. , CVT. Honda in Independence, MO.

[pizza_oven]

$19,600 for a 2011 PWP EX 6 spd, 27000 km. The car included winter tires and a comprehensive warranty, and I also had them repair a paint chip on the hood. Picking it up next week