Starting Battery Issue

[crzdude]

My CRZ's Engine's 12Volt Starting battery goes dead if the car isn't driven for 4 or 5 days.
The battery was replaced a couple months ago and it happened about 3 weeks later again, only this time it drained an Optima D51R with 450 Cold Crank and 66 Ampere Hr, in 5 days.
Has anyone else had their battery go down?
Is this an ongoing CRZ issue?

[AhsGrad1973]

Sounds like you could have a short in your electrical system somewhere, or you are leaving an interior light on maybe? I don't drive my car, only once a week and my battery doesn't go down like that.

[Monkey]

A week ago,i left my car for 15 days,in my garage,and it was perfect,sad 15 days without driving my baby lol...

[chaos]

So far, no problems. My car sits for days and starts without a problem.

[chazdawg35]

Originally Posted by crzdude

My CRZ's Engine's 12Volt Starting battery goes dead if the car isn't driven for 4 or 5 days.
The battery was replaced a couple months ago and it happened about 3 weeks later again, only this time it drained an Optima D51R with 450 Cold Crank and 66 Ampere Hr, in 5 days.
Has anyone else had their battery go down?
Is this an ongoing CRZ issue?

Do you have any aftermarket electrical stuff hooked up?

[Noodles]

My CR-Z sits 4 or 5 days at a time almost every week and I haven’t had a problem. I’ve had mine for 7 months.

[holeydonut]

Originally Posted by crzdude

My CRZ's Engine's 12Volt Starting battery goes dead if the car isn't driven for 4 or 5 days.
The battery was replaced a couple months ago and it happened about 3 weeks later again, only this time it drained an Optima D51R with 450 Cold Crank and 66 Ampere Hr, in 5 days.
Has anyone else had their battery go down?
Is this an ongoing CRZ issue?

Yeah, I had my CRZ go completely dead after a weekend of non driving (parked on Friday and would not start on Monday).

At the time, I had no modifications to the vehicle so it was 100% stock. I really don't know what light was left on, but I can only assume something was drawing power for 48 hours and drained both the vehicle battery and the IMA pack.

I always leave my headlights on the [Auto] setting... because I'm a lazy bum.

The gripe I have is that my Dodge Charger cuts interior power draw if you leave a light on but the key is removed from the ignition. That is, if you leave your map light on, and remove the key, the map light shuts off after 5 minutes. Same goes with the glove box light and dome light. Honda obviously felt like adding $1 worth of circuitry wasn't worth the cost to prevent dead batteries if someone activates a light without the driver realizing what has happened.

Other possibilities include a situation where the security system is somehow culpable and the passive state is taking way more power than it should, or the Nav-Radio components are drawing power even without the key.

Some Jeeps had an issue where the Nav-Radio was constantly taking 12v due to faulty temperature sensors causing the radio cooling fan to spin even though the unit wasn't activated. My crappy 1990 Olds also had to have the negative battery terminal removed if I parked it a week - which I never did figure out why.

[Don_94583]

You should measure the current draw from the 12v battery when you think everything is turned off. There's a spec in the BIG manual, but I don't recall what it is (something like 20 milliamps, IIRC). You do this by disconnecting the 12V battery and connecting a DC milliammeter in series with the removed cable. The trick is being able to disconnect it without ever losing contact, or you will have to reset the audio system, and maybe more.
The easiest way to do this is to connect a jumper clip lead from the negative battery post to a solid ground bolt somewhere. Then disconnect the negative cable where it bolts to the body (not the battery end). Now connect your milliammeter between the neg cable and ground (positive side of meter to ground). Now you can disconnect the temporary jumper and the battery current will indicate on your meter. Don't futz around playing with various accessories unless your meter can handle the anticipated load!
When you're done, re-connect the temporary jumper; remove the meter, and re-connect the regular negative battery terminal to the ground screw; then you can remove the temporary jumper.

[JnC]

Or just use a clamp meter. If current is flowing there's no need to break the circuit.

[Don_94583]

Originally Posted by JnC

Or just use a clamp meter. If current is flowing there's no need to break the circuit.

"ordinary" clamp-on meters are AC only, and even then don't get down to a low enough range to be useful.