DIY: K&N Typhoon SRI Install!

[RicoMagic]

So I bought the K&N Typhoon SRI for my CR-Z, and thought I would document the installation process. In doing so I thought I would share and post it. There were a couple of steps in the instructions that should have been in a different order (in my opinion) so if you are waiting for yours to arrive just be aware of it, it might save you a little frustration and time.
The instructions that came with the system are easy to understand and pretty well illustrated but left a little to be desired.
If you are going to use this write-up as a guide, I am in no way, shape or form responsible for any damage you may do to your vehicle. So with that, let’s begin!

Tools required:
Flat Blade Screw Driver
Phillips Screw Driver
Ratchet
Extension
10mm socket
4mm Allen Wrench
3mm Allen Wrench
Pliers

**Make sure to check the packaging for all the necessary items to complete the installation**

1. Make sure the car is turned off and negative battery cable is disconnected.

2. Disconnect the mass air flow sensor harness.


3. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the fresh air intake scoop towards the front of the car.


4. Loosen the hose clamp that secures the fresh air intake tube to the airbox. There is a clamp securing it.




5. Remove the fresh air intake tube from the car. The lower fresh air tube will need to be disconnected, there is a plastic coupler that you must take off or else the last few steps will totally frustrate you. If you do disconnect the lower tube go ahead and replace it.


6. Loosen the hose clamps that secure the intake hose and airbox to the throttle body.


7. Remove the two bolts that secure the factory airbox to the car, and remove the whole assembly. You will have to release the crankcase vent tube from the box, just use your pliers and it should come off with ease.
UPPER LEFT BOLT:


LOWER RIGHT BOLT:


CRANKCASE VENT TUBE:


8. If you took the lower intake tube off and didn’t separate it, do so now and make sure the plastic coupler Is removed from the lower half (the one that looks like a shift boot).

9. If you did take the whole lower assembly off, reinstall it at this point.

10. Remove the airbox from the car.




11. For this step make sure the engine is cool, and make sure to have something to capture excess coolant from the hose. Release the spring clamp that holds the coolant bypass hose to the throttle body as you do this quickly fit one of the rubber caps over it to stop the leak. Follow the line back to the engine and do the same there.

**Note: If your CR-Z has been sitting over night there really is no need to use the caps, I did notice that and it was also pointed out by RedefinedCRZ in a comment down below. Thanks Red! So with that you may forgo the caps if your car has been idle over night.**





12. Route the new bypass hose through the factory retaining clip. Once this is done remove the caps and install the new bypass hose and secure it with the new hose clamps.



13. Install the silicone hose onto the throttle body and secure it with the supplied hose clamps.


14. Remove the two screws that secure the mass air flow sensor and remove the sensor.


15. Install the mass air flow sensor into the K&N intake tube and secure it with the supplied hardware.


16. Install the 90° vent fitting into the K&N intake tube. The completed assembly should look something like this:


17. Cut the edge trim into two sections. One will be 11” long and the other will be 42” long.


18. Install the 42” edge trim all the way around the heat shield.


19. Install the 11” edge trim into the hole of the heat shield.


20. Install the provided “L” brackets on the heat shield.

[RicoMagic]

21. Install the flat bracket onto the heat shield.


22. Slide the intake tube through the whole in the heat shield and secure it with the provided hardware.


Should look something like this:


23. Position the heat shield and intake tube assembly in the vehicle and secure the heat shield to the factory mounting points with the provided hardware. Secure the intake tube to the throttle body hose with the hose clamp provided.
UPPER LEFT BOLT:


LOWER RIGHT BOLT:


INTAKE TUBE:


24. Attach the crankcase vent hose to the valve cover port, and then attach the other end to the 90° fitting on the intake tube. You will have to trim about 1 ½ inches off of it, or else it will pinch itself off.


25. Install the K&N air filter to the intake tube and secure it with the supplied hose clamp. Make sure you wipe down the inner part of the filter tube, if you don’t there is a possibility the filter will slide right off the intake tube no matter how much you tighten it down.


26. Reconnect the mass air flow sensor harness. Reconnect the negative battery cable.


27. Double check the engine bay for any loose tools or any other items you may have left behind.

28. It should look something like this when you are complete.



29. Start her up and enjoy!
Thanks for your time!

**I forgot to mention if you want another 1-2 HP, put your K&N sticker somewhere in the engine bay...=o)**

BEFORE:


AFTER:

[RicoMagic]

Sorry, I had to make it a two part post since I am limited to 25 photos. I hope this helps someone!

[Scotty001]

Looks to be an outstanding post and DIY - A great contribution. Thanks Rico for taking the time!

[aerodan]

Great job! I found it after I did my install, sadly, but it's right on and much better than the pictures in the xerox'ed K&N instructions.

[RicoMagic]

Thanks gents! It was my pleasure to do it, I had fun taking the photos of my first mod. I hope that it does help someone and I do agree, the xerox'ed instructions were a little ghetto, lol. Take care.

[RedefinedCRZ]

I thought about doing one when I got mine seeing that I basically had it the week they started shipping, but alas I am a typical mechanic and did not even need the instructions. However I felt they where sufficient for most people, your instructions are basically idiot proof! Which is very nice some times.

One thing I would amend. The step with putting the vac caps over coolant hose on the TB are completely unnecessary really. If the car has been shut off for some time all the fluid up there will be drained out, and you will not loose any more with the cap on or off than you did just pulling the hose off the TB. The best thing I found was just to use a hose pinch clamp on the line when removing it so the line did not leak.

Basically I did this:

Pinch clamp the line near the bottom of the hose where it connects to the T-Stat housing. If you don't have a actual line clamp, use a vice grips and a rag. Works just as well.

Than remove the connection on the lower side.

Quickly slip new hose over fitting and tighten down. Make sure to keep the open hose end above the level of the T-Stat, this will prevent leaking, or use a secondary pinch clamp.

Feed the line up to the attachment point on the TB.

Quickly remove TB hose and slip new line onto it and tighten down clamp.

With this method I lost maybe a teaspoon full of coolant and it just stream lined the process a bit.


I also called K&N about why they retained the hose under the air box connecting down to the resonator tank. They said it is some sort of air pick up hose. I informed them that the tank below is not connected to anything, and with the open nature of the air box and no way to 100% seal it it would not make any difference if it is connected. However I took the time to reconnect it just so it was there. But in further design K&N may not include this piece as it serves no purpose and increases manufacturing costs of the unit. The only benefit I see to keeping it is possibly as a water trap, or for a tiny tiny bit of support.

But with all that being said, I feel that this kit is superior to just about anything on the market for the CR-Z right now. Lower cost, retains all factory function, low install time (which if you can not DIY will save you $$ as well), I also believe it provides almost as cool of air charge as a full CAI with out the risk of pulling in water in a bad storm, and will reduce Check Engine lights on VERY cold days.

You did an very very good job with your DIY on this. I commend anyone that can take the time to write something up. I did one for the Front Amp'd emblem and it too forever. BTW, does anyone know how to post up a PDF file?

[RicoMagic]

Hey Red, good catch on the coolant hose, I made a quick change to it. I did notice that I only lost about a table spoon full of fluid when I disconnected the hose. That should save about 5 minutes off the installation time right?!

With the PDF, are you trying to link it so it just shows up instead of a link that you have to click to get to it?

[RedefinedCRZ]

Fred is going to post my PDF for me so we are all good there.

Yeah I think doing the hose my way saves about 5 min or so. Maybe more, some times those little caps are a PITA to get on and off. Much easier to just slide the hose on right the first time.

[RicoMagic]

Roger that on the PDF.

I do agree about the little caps being a PITA incoming and outgoing!