Headlight Restoration Help! - Page 3 - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-30-2016, 01:48 AM
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Asking about readily available auto store methods, I've had good luck with the Meguiars kit. Followed all the instructions and it worked. Started getting the parked outside-365 in the southwest headlight fade, regular waxing won't even prevent it (2011-2015 outside no shade) but it did a great job removing it. Been about a year now and it still looks great but the car sees much less sun over the past year than it used to.

I've also heard good things about the method our beloved Scotty posted using toothpaste. A couple of my car friends swear by it. Miss you still Scotty.

Unfortunately I don't think any of the methods will last forever.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-30-2016, 05:18 AM
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I think any of the kits will do the job, but afterward something that seems to help is a clear coat afterward. I had a great link to a fellow going through the entire process, which of course I can't find now. But Google explodes with links if you look.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-30-2016, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaHolly View Post
A shop did mine, with a precut piece of film. It had a square cut out (a notch of missing film) under where the pointy part of our headlight is. I'll take a picture if I dont make sense
Mine was done by a professional installer and he just did a knife slit to make it fit. I tried to take a picture but it was not visible. He used no pre-cut pieces he was mobile and did a great job.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-19-2016, 08:14 PM
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sorry bump an older topic but figured i'd post it here since it's relevant.

my headlights have already begun to show signs of wear and the coating has actually completely worn off on the upper-side of the headlight bulge.

it seems this is a very high pressure area where the coating along these angled surfaces has completely stripped to the plastic. not to mention my headlights overall have taken a beating from road debris, tire carcass(es), insects, and high pressure washes at the car wash (yes i'm lazy). it was not due to UV or chemical damage as the rear lights still look brand new.

before:


after:


another angle (before):


another angle (after):


I used Chemical Guys headlight restorer starting with 2500 grit and then to 3500 grit wetsanding.

after that i polished in 2 stages starting with their V34, then onto V38 using a dual action polisher (though a simple rotary would be ideal, i had no trouble)

finished off with Blue Magic headlight sealer (which blocks UV). this is not permanent and has to be applied every now and then (on a clean surface) much like other plastic and rubber restoration products. but it also works to help maintain new headlights/taillights to prevent UV damage, won't prevent scratches though.

right now i just applied the sealer which isn't permanent, as i'm contemplating whether to go with an automotive clearcoat with UV protection and buffing it smooth, or simply sealing it with wax and placing a 3M automotive protective film on it such as InvisibleMask (which i've used previously before).

putting a clear on it would make it easier to maintain and polish to a nice clear finish. on the other hand, a protective film would take more of a beating with just the slightest hint of "orange-peel" up close, but i haven't had much luck getting deep knicks and marks out besides replacing them now and then.

i would say if you're experienced with wet sanding or clay bars, shouldn't take more than 30 min. i took my time and finished in an hour including applying the sealant.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 09:19 AM
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I've done headlight restoration on a couple cars that were nearly opaque.

The most permanent method is to wetsand from 200 to 2000 grit, then apply automotive clearcoat with UV protection. Starting with 200 grit, sand until the dust/goop coming off is white, not yellow.

The first car I did still looks like the day we did it, 6 years on, with no follow-up work.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 96firephoenix View Post
I've done headlight restoration on a couple cars that were nearly opaque.

The most permanent method is to wetsand from 200 to 2000 grit, then apply automotive clearcoat with UV protection. Starting with 200 grit, sand until the dust/goop coming off is white, not yellow.

The first car I did still looks like the day we did it, 6 years on, with no follow-up work.
i contemplated removing all the coating, but since it hasn't yellowed, only faded from wear/scratches, i decided to do a very light wet-sand and polish. i definitely will be removing all the coating and prep the surface for a proper clear if i go that route. there are still some areas where there are deeper rock chips, but it's just cosmetic and didn't affect the lights optically so i left them, just focused on the trouble areas which was the bulge... and polished it up to blend in where the coating is still present.

probably going to just put 3M film for now and then do a full restoration when the time comes!

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-20-2016, 03:26 PM
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btw which clear did you use? i know some have a yellowish tint which will show on clear plastics.

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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2016, 09:53 AM
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btw which clear did you use? i know some have a yellowish tint which will show on clear plastics.
It's been a while... I know it was rattle-can clearcoat from AutoZone. I want to say VHT... The one I did 6 years ago was still clear the last time I saw it, which was this year sometime.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 08:44 PM
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Coming from a Detailer, I would get them fixed up typically we sand, then buff, depending on the severity, then add a sealant to protect the plastic from the sun and elements.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 04:43 AM
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Who's sealer do you like best, Bass?
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