The Sprintex Thread - Page 172 - Honda CRZ Forum: Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums
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post #1711 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 09:23 PM
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Hey litz! It's been a month or so since you messaged me about it being a month or so since the install...

Install went great! Got everything figured out except for an issue with the emissions. My friend looked at the emissions code I am getting with his Honda computer and saw that it was running too rich. I recently reverted to my stock exhaust, primarily to reduce the droning freeway noise on a road trip this past weekend, but I was also hoping it may somehow help with the rich burn. After my entire road trip to and from Denver (I live in Albuquerque), the code DID go off, and for the first time in two months I could finally use Sport mode again, YAY!! But after half a day it came back on... hmmmm.

Thinking about getting a tune now. Or maybe I could access the PerfectPower piggyback (the one from Sprintex) and somehow modify the AFR there. I bought the required USB cord and downloaded the appropriate software from PerfectPower, but when we got the piggyback hooked up to the computer and opened the program it looked like we were completely locked out. We couldn't see any maps or really anything at all even. Maybe PerfectPower will have a passcode or something. Kevin from Sprintex did not have any advice. He did think the typhoon K&N intake and/or the ProTuning lab aftermarket exhaust may have something to do with it.

I like having the aftermarket exhaust off for now (that ProTuning lab 2.25" cat back gets very loud ) but come warm season I plan to switch back to the loud exhaust, throw on new performance tires, and take it to the track for some time attacks. With that in mind, I would like to wait to tune it until i have the exhaust back on. However, that means another couple month of running rich. i know rich is better than lean, but i do not know how rich it is and want to reduce any excess wear and tear. I just don't want to pay to tune it with the stock exhaust, then again with the ProTuning lab, exhaust then again if I ever sell the Sprintex.

Thoughts?

Thanks for reaching out! (I am not sure how to make "litz" a smart link to your account)
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post #1712 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 11:00 PM
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Hi Trevor--I can't remember off the top of my head, if you need a pass code or not, and right now I have my piggyback and 5th injector off the car and KTuner ready for a Dyno test this coming weekend, so I'm not sure if I can double check anything on my end right now. I'll see if I can come up with anything by just hooking up my piggyback while it's out of the car and see what I get (tomorrow, after work.) I do remember on initial set up of the software, I had to reinstall a couple of times before I could get it to connect successfully to the piggyback to get the information on the screen--just remember a couple of days of frustration with it, and somehow got it to work. If nothing else, I could send you my piggyback, and you can swap it out for yours to see if the tune I have on it makes any difference (if you can't get any connection to your software because of something going on with the LetRipp on your computer.)

Of course, since I am going with KTuner now, I'll let you know what difference that makes over the tune I had with the piggyback. What were the DTCs that you got, making it go to limp mode? I had P0400 come up every couple of months or so, but also had a P0300 type code once for lean burn (P0301 is 1st cylinder, P0302 is 2nd cylinder....,) which got me thinking more seriously about going with KTuner and getting it tuned with all the fuel inputs being at the cylinder (and not using the 5th injector, which is upstream from the OEM injectors.)

We'll get it out of limp mode, for sure. Just need to figure out what's going on, and change some values, but first off, figuring out why you're not getting the LetRipp info on screen.

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post #1713 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 11:08 PM
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The lockdown thing, if i recall correctly, can be either or both, Run the Letripp as admin, and check on the options window, for connectivity options, for USB and set it.

It sounds about it if i remember my Sprintex Tweaking.
Regarding emissions, Letripp has no option to bypass emissions.

It is possible that the base tune is too rich, and it needs a re-tune to something more streamline.
However, like it has been common knowledge around here these last few installs...As soon as you can....Drop the piggyback, and set your course towards 4 larger injectors, and Hondata or K-Tuner according to your car year.

It will be the most reliable, and future friendly option you'll get.

The kit is very neat, but the Tuning option that they release, it's not very good, imho. Hope this bit of info helps

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post #1714 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRaZy91 View Post
Hey litz! It's been a month or so since you messaged me about it being a month or so since the install...

Install went great! Got everything figured out except for an issue with the emissions. My friend looked at the emissions code I am getting with his Honda computer and saw that it was running too rich. I recently reverted to my stock exhaust, primarily to reduce the droning freeway noise on a road trip this past weekend, but I was also hoping it may somehow help with the rich burn. After my entire road trip to and from Denver (I live in Albuquerque), the code DID go off, and for the first time in two months I could finally use Sport mode again, YAY!! But after half a day it came back on... hmmmm.

Thinking about getting a tune now. Or maybe I could access the PerfectPower piggyback (the one from Sprintex) and somehow modify the AFR there. I bought the required USB cord and downloaded the appropriate software from PerfectPower, but when we got the piggyback hooked up to the computer and opened the program it looked like we were completely locked out. We couldn't see any maps or really anything at all even. Maybe PerfectPower will have a passcode or something. Kevin from Sprintex did not have any advice. He did think the typhoon K&N intake and/or the ProTuning lab aftermarket exhaust may have something to do with it.

I like having the aftermarket exhaust off for now (that ProTuning lab 2.25" cat back gets very loud ) but come warm season I plan to switch back to the loud exhaust, throw on new performance tires, and take it to the track for some time attacks. With that in mind, I would like to wait to tune it until i have the exhaust back on. However, that means another couple month of running rich. i know rich is better than lean, but i do not know how rich it is and want to reduce any excess wear and tear. I just don't want to pay to tune it with the stock exhaust, then again with the ProTuning lab, exhaust then again if I ever sell the Sprintex.

Thoughts?

Thanks for reaching out! (I am not sure how to make "litz" a smart link to your account)

Hello,
I think going back to stock exhaust (more restricted flow) actually will make your car run even richer because less air flow going through the cylinder but still the same fuel,
yes the computer should be able to adjust it in normal non sprintex application,
but since the piggy back is kinda hide the real AFR from the factory ECU, the ECU could not adjust it.

the K&N also should help make your car leaner,
in fact there are cases where Honda Fit running Sprintex and Sprintex piggy back and after market intake have too lean problem when they shift and hold the rpm at redline, and the fix was higher flow fuel pump to bring it back from lean
or get back to factory airbox.

I personally have too rich problem in my sprintex and the problem was not the fuel map but the ignition map with too much igntion retard. So if you are able to open the map on your Sprintex piggy back, check the ignition map too.
The too rich ignition map was created by professional tuner, so sometimes even professional tuner don't tune it right...

I am using AEM F/IC-6 piggy back and it had been wonderful and easy to adjust myself.
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post #1715 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 06:48 PM
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Agree with Aceryl and BMW ALPINA's comments above, and I think the software needs to be run as Administrator..., but first off, right click the icon on your desktop and click properties. Then get on the compatibility tab and change the compatibility mode to the operating system you're using. I you're using Window8, and it's already set for Windows8, then switch to VISTA or some other mode and try it; then switch back to the proper compatibility mode and try it again. Yeah, a bunch of back and forth of switching it around was what got me running, as I remember--don't know why, but that's what happened with mine, and after that, it's always been good.

If you can't get the screen to show the "SMT8L_4 RFL 121" or similar model number in the upper right of the pic below, then you don't have your software components loaded completely on your computer.
All you need is the USB connected piggyback-to-computer. I got to this screen with the piggyback hooked up to my computer, but not wired to anything (sitting on the coffee table, LOL.)

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post #1716 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 08:50 PM
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What's the highest hp for a cvt sprintex crz over here?
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post #1717 of 1765 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 07:45 PM
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P2227 dtc

I was searching for info on a P2227 DTC that I got after installing KTuner with my Sprintex a day or so after getting it tuned. My tuner said he'll get together with me and do some on-road adjustments, but until then, I was wondering if anyone else had that code and/or a solution.

I went to post a note up on FitFreak, but forgot my password, so maybe a call out to @jibberjabbs or anyone else for some insight. I won't be able to get back with my tuner until next weekend, as the earliest because of my schedule, so I thought I'd so some research and get out the manual and do some troubleshooting in the meantime. I might be wasting my time, since the tuner says they just need to make some adjustments, but I'm just paranoid that I might have done (or failed to do) something with my piggyback to KTuner swap, and want to verify it's not something to do with my own workmanship with the swap. A mention in earlier pages of this thread, said it was an early KTuner issue that they were fixing at the time--a year or so ago.

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post #1718 of 1765 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 02:15 PM
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I have a feeling the issue is I am at 5,200 ft. elevation. The rich emissions code went off for a couple days this winter, when the temperature really dropped. The colder, denser air must have balanced out with the tune and got it running well. When it warmed up again the code came back.
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post #1719 of 1765 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 02:34 PM
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Damn and blast! I was just saying elsewhere how my CR-Z was running nicely and I must have put the curses on it. My 2nd piggyback ECU failed today. I got into the car to come home from work, went to start the engine and got the Check Engine light. Looked under the bonnet and the ECU is dead (no LED). Did my previous trick of bypassing with two links and managed to get rid of the Check Engine fault, so I can limp around keeping the revs under 3,000rpm. This is exactly how the first one died.

So what do I do? Having experienced little help from PerfectPower on the last occasion, and the unit being out of warranty, I need to buy a replacement fast. Does anyone know where I can get one from?

2014 CR-Z GT-T 6MT in Polished Metal, Sprintex supercharger, PerfectPower piggyback ECU, Takeda intake, HKS Silent Hi-Power full exhaust, Tegiwa 2nd decat pipe, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, Cusco ARBs, Ronal R53 wheels, Seibon TS hood, JDP Engineering spoiler.
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post #1720 of 1765 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT View Post
Damn and blast! I was just saying elsewhere how my CR-Z was running nicely and I must have put the curses on it. My 2nd piggyback ECU failed today. I got into the car to come home from work, went to start the engine and got the Check Engine light. Looked under the bonnet and the ECU is dead (no LED). Did my previous trick of bypassing with two links and managed to get rid of the Check Engine fault, so I can limp around keeping the revs under 3,000rpm. This is exactly how the first one died.

So what do I do? Having experienced little help from PerfectPower on the last occasion, and the unit being out of warranty, I need to buy a replacement fast. Does anyone know where I can get one from?
I'll send you mine! It hasn't given me a problem at all, except for getting the occasional P0400 from the 2nd o2 sensor, but now that you have KTuner, I think you can turn that off (not sure if mine's still activated--tuner might have checked that box, but I haven't looked for sure.)

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