Bisimoto's quest for a 500+hp, eco-friendly CRZ!

[Bisimoto]

Greetings all,
Thanks for your patience with this project as it has been a long 7 weeks of developement, testing and creation of some amazing parts for the Honda CR-Z. For those who have been supportive with our efforts, and understand the creative process, thank you.

The CR-Z is a wonderful vehicle, with looks, to kill. It has been our goal to develop sick, powerful products for this new platform, while keeping the part throttle fuel economy the same, if not improved, and retaining all hybrid functions.

To assist in the Bisimoto quest, and in the name of efficiency, we made the trek to Norm Reeves Honda in Cerritos and picked up a brand new LEA1 engine:



On the engine stand, in the climate controlled engine building room:



The current specs measured were 73mm bore and 89.4mm stroke.

With the pan off, you can see the small holes on the girdle, allowing for tool access to the rod bolts.



A view of the factory pistons:

The low friction cast slugs feature a moly based "perforated" skirt coating.



The new Arias pistons going into the LEA1 will have a similar, and improved coatings.

[Bisimoto]

The attention to detail from Honda factory has been superb! The stock rods even feature a partline fracture process to ensure superior cap alignment...something I usually see in high end German luxury vehicles.

The obvious weak link in this powerplant is in the rod bolt design. Below is the factory rod bolt versus the ARP replacement that is used in this build:



The CRZ is full of wonders: during deceleration with the throttle valve closed, current to the injectors is cut off to improve fuel economy at engine speeds over 850 rpm. Fuel cutoff control also occurs when the engine speed exceeds 6,500 rpm, regardless of the position of the throttle valve, to protect the engine from over-revving. When the vehicle is stopped, the factory ecu cuts the fuel at engine speeds over 4,800 rpm, almost as a psuedo launch control. On a cold engine, fuel cut occurs at a lower engine speed.

Speaking of throttle bodies, here is a comparison of the stock CR-Z unit, versus the monster that is going on the project:



We have big plans for this car, to make the most powerful econo hybrid on planet earth!

Stock apature exists at a measly 50mm, while our new unit comes in at an air gulping 70mm!

We will retain the drive by wire capability, and the three eco modes with the CRZ as well.

[Bisimoto]

We also purchased a head package complete from Norm Reeves Honda in Cerritos (great prices), including the camshaft and rocker assembly:



A view of the exhaust port configuration. This is an economical design for the manufacturers: a tubular cylindar port manifold is not needed, and saves cost in the long run. Despite the limitations to design rpm dependant enhanced exhaust manifolds, how perfect is this for a turbo manifold?



After proper disassembly of the LEA1 engine, off to Golden Eagle MFG for sleeving. The goal of this build is coming to fruition. BIG, RELIABLE POWA!



Without much ado, the very first sleeved LEA1 engine :

[Bisimoto]

I highly recommend upgrading the rods for any L-series build in excess of 180bhp, and hence we explored the task of a well designed steel rod. This design, coupled with its weight, will allow for high hp opportunities, with a light reciprocating mass (and al the advantages herewith):



The time finally came to remove the factory engine from the CRZ:



IMA:

The integrated motor assist is the heart of the hybrid powerplant. I am very concerned around the safety of the DIYer when it comes to these motors (true meaning of motor).

YOU MUST EXERCISE CAUTION WITH WORKING WITH THE IMA MOTOR, AS LOSS OF FINGERS CAN/WILL OCCUR. The motor rotor contains very strong magnets and should be handled with special care. People with pacemakers or other sensitive medical devices should not handle the IMA motor rotor.

Using the proper tools is critical when disassembling the motor. I purchased my tool kit from Norm Reeves, and the toold kit was less than $400 (07YAC-PHM010C). If the rotor is installed by hand, it WILL suddenly be pulled toward the stator with great force, causing serious hand or finger injury.

First step was to wrap the rotor in plastic, in order to prevent the centre rotor unit from contacting the delicate surrounding magnets.


Three of the six bolts in the rotor were removed and the three rotor puller guide pins were promptly screwed in. I then removed the remaining three bolts.



I then attached the rotor puller with its supplied bolts, making note that when installing the rotor puller, I positioned the puller to fit over the guide pins.



I carefully turned the handle of rotor puller clockwise, and removed the IMA motor rotor. With care, I placed the removed puller, with rotor assembly in the tool kit's pelican case.



The magnetic housing: "derotored":



After removing all the connectors, and housing bolt, success!:

[Bisimoto]

Some more goodies:

Custom Bisimoto-spec ARP head studs (vs. stock)



Burns Muffler (baller):



Bisimoto spec Arias piston vs. stock:



Old (38 miles) engine on the stand with valve and chain covers removed:



Next..headwork! The key to every successful engine build!

[roddy]

holy hell. can't wait to see it all put together and putting down amazing numbers

[northbridge]

uh, wow.

[CRaZee]

Amazing... and cant wait to see the finished product!

[lucky7]

I want one....

[Nick]

I wonder how much for everything?