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#11 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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My car was pretty well neural with the HKS HiperMax IIIs and I didn't want to mess that up. Also, the ride was pretty stiff. I like it, but I was concerned about making it too hard for daily driving. So I went with Cusco front and rear sway bars. They are only a little stiffer than stock but they make the car fell much more confident and keep the camber straight. Maybe I could have gone with something stiffer like the Spoon FSB (25mm vs Cusco 20mm vs stock 18mm) and the Basis RSB (21mm? vs the Cusco 16mm) but the Cuscos are on there, they feel good and don't squeek! Then you could just do what ITEM9 did which is Spoon FSB/Basis(?) RSB and lowering springs at a near stock rates. Check out his build thread!
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Milano Red 6MT EX / Carbon Fiber storage lid / RCI Saftey Net / 215/40 Dunlop Direzza ZIIs on 17x7.5 Enkei Tuning Fujins / JDP front lip and rear spoiler / Black Label Fab CAI & CAT Back / HKS Hiper Max III coilovers/ Engalls Fastcams (-2) / Hondata FlashPro Tuning / HKS Kansai Front Strut Tower Bar / Cusco Rear Strut Bar / Cusco Front & Rear Sway Bars/ Cusco Pillow Ball |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 271
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#14 (permalink) |
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Super Duper Member
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I'm running stock FSB and Cusco RSB. Really happy with that setup, but then you want the car a bit softer in front for autoX.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Super Duper Member
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i was thinking of getting the basis rear sway as well. it really makes that much of a difference? even with our solid rears? my coils are 5f/4r so i can adjust the dampening to get it harder in the rear for auto-x but how much stiffer does it make it with just the rear bar? i enjoy my daily ride comfort right now and dont want to make it any more harsh (had it and hated it, first time too cause i usually ride stiff as **** rates).
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SSM 11' CRZ EX hella stock
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#16 (permalink) | |
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MODgic Mike
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Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
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My Build |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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![]() And I wasn't the only one. Norris Prayoonto and Bisi (yes, the 533HP turbo CR-Z guy) both have them. Check them out on the web.
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Milano Red 6MT EX / Carbon Fiber storage lid / RCI Saftey Net / 215/40 Dunlop Direzza ZIIs on 17x7.5 Enkei Tuning Fujins / JDP front lip and rear spoiler / Black Label Fab CAI & CAT Back / HKS Hiper Max III coilovers/ Engalls Fastcams (-2) / Hondata FlashPro Tuning / HKS Kansai Front Strut Tower Bar / Cusco Rear Strut Bar / Cusco Front & Rear Sway Bars/ Cusco Pillow Ball |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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But I ultimately decided I could do it myself. I have done all of the other suspension work myself I felt I could tackle this as well. It took all weekend (because it was 95+ outside and I do this in my driveway)! Dropping the subframe is actually easy. It's the steering rack that is a problem. The steering rack bolts are a PITA to get to. I really recommend dropping the subframe a little (but not completely because I think you will disconnect the steering) before undoing the rack to make room to undo the steering rack bolts. That is how I reinstalled it. They say this is about a 3-4 hour job. At $75-$100/hr that would be $300-$400 (to install a <$200 sway bar ). I'm glad I did it myself but it is a lot of work.
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Milano Red 6MT EX / Carbon Fiber storage lid / RCI Saftey Net / 215/40 Dunlop Direzza ZIIs on 17x7.5 Enkei Tuning Fujins / JDP front lip and rear spoiler / Black Label Fab CAI & CAT Back / HKS Hiper Max III coilovers/ Engalls Fastcams (-2) / Hondata FlashPro Tuning / HKS Kansai Front Strut Tower Bar / Cusco Rear Strut Bar / Cusco Front & Rear Sway Bars/ Cusco Pillow Ball |
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