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#45 (permalink) |
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ILLEEEGAAL!!!!
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We really need to merge the two JRSC threads together...
Here's what I posted in the other thread: Mine ships out Tuesday! When I talked with Oscar earlier today, he mentioned most of the buyers were actually people who just lurked on the forum. I'm not aware of any other active members who have taken the plunge just yet.
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2011 Honda CR-Z 6MT PWP EX NAV - JR Rotrex Supercharged Build Thread /// PARTS FOR SALE /// The First Offical Annual CR-Z Meet |
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#47 (permalink) |
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ILLEEEGAAL!!!!
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Hey guys I got the kit installed and I have some pics on my build thread. Here's a link:
ITEM9's Build Thread: JR Supercharged PWP EX 6MT I go in for tuning at LHT on next Thursday morning. I'm taking it easy with her until then.
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2011 Honda CR-Z 6MT PWP EX NAV - JR Rotrex Supercharged Build Thread /// PARTS FOR SALE /// The First Offical Annual CR-Z Meet |
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#48 (permalink) |
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ILLEEEGAAL!!!!
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A couple install notes:
I did not use an air compressor to prime the supercharger oil system. I didn't know how clean my air was and didn't want to contaminate the system with water vapor or dirt. I used a hand brake bleeder to pull a vacuum and draw fluid through the entire system until I saw oil come out into the bleeder's clear tube. This method also allowed me to hear a leak at one of the fittings. I tightened the loose fitting and it started to hold a solid vacuum. It took about 15 minutes to do it this way though. The intercooler pipes were very dirty on the inside. I believe it's what's left over from the bending process. I took some electrical wire with a solid core, looped it and shoved the looped wire through the intercooler pipe. Once the looped end made it through the other end of the tube, I took a rag soaked in a solvent and pulled it through the wire loop. Then I stuffed the rag into the tube and pulled the rag through it with the other ends of the looped wire. The rag needs to big enough for a tight fit inside the tube; I used an old t-shirt. I repeated until I saw no dirt come off onto the rag. I found the bypass valve hose to be too long and saw that it touched the hood. I cut a little off both ends and problem solved. I didn't have to remove the windshield wiper cowl. I didn't remove the engine damper bracket. I couldn't find my deep 19mm socket and two of the nuts have a long stud that requires a deep socket. I just loosened the engine damper and lifted the engine enough to pull it out of the headlight opening. I had an issue with grounding the relocated horn. Get an additional ground bolt for the horns and reuse the ground bolt that you have. These bolts have little protrusions on the underside of the head that cut into a painted surface and will properly ground the horn. The bolts supplied by Jackson don't have this feature. Use one to mount the bracket to the car and one to mount the horn to the bracket. Some metal also needs to be exposed on the bracket for the nut to make contact on the other side of the horn bolt.
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2011 Honda CR-Z 6MT PWP EX NAV - JR Rotrex Supercharged Build Thread /// PARTS FOR SALE /// The First Offical Annual CR-Z Meet |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor
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ITEM9-
Thank you for your notes. IC Pipe Cleaning: We did discover some of the piping missed the cleaning tank during manufacturing. We have taken all our piping currently in stock and cleaned the pipes to make sure this is not an issue. I'm glad you caught it on your end. Horn Bolt: We have not had any issues with horn grounding on our end, but have noted the serrated factory bolt. We are including serrated bolts and nut for the horn assembly now. -Oscar Jr. |
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